My 5/6 ports on my S4 isn't opening even after I replaced the acv, and took apart the actuators and followed the procedures by aaron cakes. I kind of gave up and decided to just sleeve it. I'm running a RB street header/bonez hi-flow cat combo and I've decided to replace the cat with a midpipe/presilencer. I figured if I won't be using the acv, and I won't be running a cat, I'd take the air pump off.

My friend called me and told me that without th airpump, the exhaust gas will just melt the internals of my catalytic converter. If that is so, does that mean it will also melt the racing beat presilencer if I were to decide to get it?

What would be the BEST setup now that I have my airpump off and my ports sleeved?

Thanks for the help guys!

Also another question. With the ports sleeved I'll be losing low end power but my friend told me that if I put bigger fuel injectors in I would get the power back. It makes sense that more air needs more fuel, but I haven't really read on the forums about this. My friend has a set of t2 fuel injectors that I'll be using if this is going to work.

 

the airpump feeds o2 to your CAT. it will burn up after time. nothing else will happen.. worst case is it melts and clogs than your car wont run as strong.

 

you will gain less if you upgrade your injectors the reason behind you lossing power with sleeves or ports wired open is because its too much air/fuel

 

The RB presilence won't melt. No worry there whatsoever.

The ACV and airpump have zip to do with the aux ports opening on a SERIES FOUR. It's backpressue from the exhaust that applies pressure to the aux port acturators.

The series five arrangement is much better because it uses the air pressure from the airpump plus a solenoid triggered by the ECU. If you copycat the series five arrangement, they will work just fine each and every time. This means getting a rpm switching device like the SUMMITRACING one and using it with a used/old/sprare solenoid like the ones on your vacuum rack (blue. grey, orange, etc).

 

So I could still get my 5/6 ports opened without an airpump?

 

Yes, but the split air tube must be intact, and if you have an aftermarket exhaust then you might not have enough backpressure to activate them.

 

"Sleeving" something means putting sleeves in. I presume you mean you took the auxiliary port sleeves out.

Best set-up for what exactly? The best set-up for a street car includes a working 6PI system.

Your friend is completely wrong and needs to learn how EFI works.

It does, and that extra air (assuming there is some) will be measured by the airflow meter and added by the ECU accordingly. If you just throw in bigger injectors, the ECU won't (can't) compensate to suit and the mixtures will be richer. Richer mixtures reduce power, not increase it.

Don't do it, many have and all found out that it has the exact opposite effect to what they thought.

 

the split air tube is still there, maybe I'll spend some more time figuring out why it won't open.

I did the 5/6th port mod with a custom air dump valve connected to the airpump so it would open without backpressure and the ports STILL wouldn't open, that is why I decided to sleeve them, so I'm sure there must be something else that's wrong.

is there any other way to get my 6 port system working?

Trust me, I want my 6 port system to work. I have another daily driver, but it's a SUV and this car is much more fun to drive around town. But right now I can't seem to figure out what's wrong with it.

 

You might be carbon locked. You can use some seafoam deep creep to eat away the carbon and then manually activate and de-activate them. Once it moves extremely easy you should be able to activate it (Unless something's up with your plumbing). If you don't want to remove your UIM to do this you can do it brawney and move them up and down from outside the car.

 

It's possible you don't have enough backpressure with the better flowing exhaust to open them. Do the electric conversion.

 

I'm not really sure what you did, but if the ports didn't open then they were either stuck, you weren't providing the actuators enough pressure, or the actuators had failed.

You need an air pump of some description and a solenoid valve controlled by an rpm switch. As long as you provide enough pressure at the right time and the actuators/rods/sleeves move freely, it'll work.

 

This is what i made: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-air-pump-auxilary-port-activation-330310/

It didn't work at all. The actuators didn't even budge. I've read a bit more in the archives. There are some mixed opinions about taking the sleeves out but overall, everyone who actually did this mod liked the results. I understand I'll loose some drivability but I do have another DD, and I guess I'll just drive this car less.

 

Were they actually free to move? Would they move easily by hand? If so, as long as you provide enough pressure (~2psi) they will open. If they didn't then you must have done something wrong and they weren't getting enough pressure.

I bet some of those people were comparing removed sleeves to sleeves that were stuck closed. I've never seen anyone provide conclusive proof of a worthwhile performance gain, i.e. a back-to-back dyno comparison comparing open sleeves to removed sleeves. I'm sure there's some gain, but how much is it really?

 

Or at all. My first free RX-7 was due to a clogged/melted cat that caused so much back pressure the car couldn't start without loosing the cat to create a exhaust leak. And even then it wouldn't rev above 2000.

 

I'm trying not to drive the seven until my presilencer arrives. As for the actuators arms they are movable by hand. I don't know how loose they are suppose to be but i don't have to put that much pressure to move them. I've followed the instructions and lubed the arms and everything. How loose are they supposed to be?

 

Not sure why your setup didn't work (air pump 6PI activation). Maybe your actuators were leaking, the rod on the LIM or the auxiliary valve was seized, plumbing leaks, or the valve for the air dump from the air pump was open too much and didn't let the actuators pressurize.

Your exhaust won't activate the 6PI if there isn't enough backpressure coming from the main cat through the split air pipe (S4). If you want to loose the air pump (and cat), ACV, split-air pipe, and get both low and high RPM power, you'll have to go electronic 6PI activation.

 

If I went electronic, where would I get the air pressure from?

 

You still need an air pump of some sort, either the stock one or an electric one.