I acutally have the car completely rigged to run both the aux ports and VDI with RPM switches and air from the stock air pump. Backpressure woudln't even open my aux ports, so the VDI (which takes even higher pressure) was out of the question.

I welded a bung on the back of the air pump and ran vac line to an EGR solenoid, then to the aux port actuators. I did the same thing with the VDI, and have an rpm switch for each. It works great on the aux ports, but I did have to partially block the air flow through the air silencer tube (on the ACV) since it was blowing off the pressure I needed above 3500 rpm. A plastic plug with a small hole worked perfect.

http://members.***.net/kiljaden84/6PI%20Solenoid.JPG

As far as your header glowing like that, I really can't think of anything to cause it. That usually only happens at WOT under hard load.

 

TB off again found the adjustment screw, but it doesnt want to budge, just strip

 

i eliminated the acv and airpump so thats out of the question, what are you running as far exhaust?

 

You might just TB mod the replacement and use it instead. Or let that thing soak in WD40 overnight.

 

Ah ha!

 

I have to keep all emissions since I get to enjoy smogging every 2 years.

My exhaust is the stock manifold -> RB downpipe -> gutted main cat w/ split-air pickup tube -> RB catback

The gutted cat is getting replaced with a presilencer now that I don't need backpressure for the 6PI. Not that it ever worked anyway... It didn't even work with all the cats intact. I drove the car for years thinking it was functional. Horrible design.

 

I have to agree that the secondaries is causing the high idle, but that shouldn't be causing your header to glow like that. Your exhaust is crazy hot. Atleast to my knowledge headers dont glow when the engine is held at 4k rpm.

The injecters shouldnt be the problem. If they were stuck open you would have a rough idle from running way too rich, plus the engine would be getting flooded. If they were stuck closed, primaries, the car would have a hard time starting and holding an idle much less holding at 4k rpm.

About the throttle. yeah you have to be careful with the screws. typicly those screws dont get moved for the life of a car untill a modder gets a hold of the car like you. By this point in time you are looking at screws that havent been turned in 15-20 years, however old the car is....

About the CAS. You said it was adjusted 100 or so miles back. Was it set to stock spec, or did you have it advanced or anthing like that?

 

success! i got the adjustment loose, threw it back on the car and no more 4K idle, engine sounds a bit healthier too, the car is dying out below 2500rpm but some tweaking should take care of that. the outer throttle plates must have been stopping this problem from happening before this, thanks for the help

 

the cas was slightly advanced when i was diagnosing problems it was having about a year ago, yeah i havnt gotten to drive it too much.

 

the car is starting fine, and runs smoothly until 3K, though under that it starts to get kind of rough and below that dies

 

yeah no emmisions testing in NH on cars anymore than i think 12yrs old. i had read where one person a few years back had actuated his 5th and 6th ports sucessfully by this method, worth a shot either way before i go throguh the trouble of riggin up rpm switches

EDIT: are you sure the primary throttle plate is supposed to be open about a millimeter? mine was set completely shut, maybe that would explain my lack of idle