400hp questions
09-22-05, 01:46 PM
#26
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Bukwild, yea I get what you mean, we actually have two instances of this thread and a simmilar one going right at the moment. Maybe this should be archived, or someone should take the time to make a sticky on horsepower stages, and the necessary modifications to reach each goal sucessfully. I totally agree with going with a EMS rather than a piggyback for these kind of horsepower goals. Thats purely my opinion, and this is coming from a guy who was going to run a e-manage with a BNR stage III.
The author of this post informed me that he is considering a Haltech as probably his first purchase for a performance modification. Doesn't seem like too bad of an idea to me....
Also like Bukwild said, look into getting a preterminated wiring harness, it will be a huge help, and for that price, you can't really go wrong.
As far as the whole boost creep issue with adding a exhaust or cone filter, heres my opinion, and I think it basically is simmilar to what has already been said:
1.) You should be ok with the FMIC, exhaust, and a FCD, and a walbro, plus fuel pump re-wire. My friend has run his TII with a factory mazda reman. this way for about 6 years now. Also you will need, or should get a Cone filter, and a BOV as well. Also, I would HIGHLY reccomend porting your turbo's wastegate the help prevent boost creep.
2.) I get very **** about things, and I don't want you to go blowing your motor either. If you want some extra peace of mind, get yourself some larger secondary injectors, but the problem with doing so, is you WILL NEED a device to control them. But, like I said, you can get away with the FMIC, Exhaust, FCD, and a fuel pump, just PORT THAT WASTEGATE.
3.) If your getting the Haltech first, then that will control larger secondary injectors just fine. Look into getting a wideband oxygen sensor system at this point then too, and a EGT gauge.
4.) Once the wastegate is ported to 35mm, you can drive about safely, but will STILL get minimal creep, just keep an eye on it, stay away from higher than 8psi IMO. You could get a boost controller at this time as well, coupled with your ported wastegate, you can set your boost to go NO higher than 8psi IMO, or whatever is reccomende by others here.
Do you have a boost gauge other than the factory cluster unit? I would not push the car past 8psi (like I said about a million times) After the exhaust, FCD, FMIC, Walbro, fuel pump re-wire, and wastegate porting, until you get yourself injectors and a unit to control them. Better to be extra safe, than extra sorry huh?
Take care,
Chris
As always, I am not always 100% correct, so the others who have more experience can ratify tmy advice/opinions as they see fit. Seems that most of the information is all together here in this thread though...
The author of this post informed me that he is considering a Haltech as probably his first purchase for a performance modification. Doesn't seem like too bad of an idea to me....
Also like Bukwild said, look into getting a preterminated wiring harness, it will be a huge help, and for that price, you can't really go wrong.
As far as the whole boost creep issue with adding a exhaust or cone filter, heres my opinion, and I think it basically is simmilar to what has already been said:
1.) You should be ok with the FMIC, exhaust, and a FCD, and a walbro, plus fuel pump re-wire. My friend has run his TII with a factory mazda reman. this way for about 6 years now. Also you will need, or should get a Cone filter, and a BOV as well. Also, I would HIGHLY reccomend porting your turbo's wastegate the help prevent boost creep.
2.) I get very **** about things, and I don't want you to go blowing your motor either. If you want some extra peace of mind, get yourself some larger secondary injectors, but the problem with doing so, is you WILL NEED a device to control them. But, like I said, you can get away with the FMIC, Exhaust, FCD, and a fuel pump, just PORT THAT WASTEGATE.
3.) If your getting the Haltech first, then that will control larger secondary injectors just fine. Look into getting a wideband oxygen sensor system at this point then too, and a EGT gauge.
4.) Once the wastegate is ported to 35mm, you can drive about safely, but will STILL get minimal creep, just keep an eye on it, stay away from higher than 8psi IMO. You could get a boost controller at this time as well, coupled with your ported wastegate, you can set your boost to go NO higher than 8psi IMO, or whatever is reccomende by others here.
Do you have a boost gauge other than the factory cluster unit? I would not push the car past 8psi (like I said about a million times) After the exhaust, FCD, FMIC, Walbro, fuel pump re-wire, and wastegate porting, until you get yourself injectors and a unit to control them. Better to be extra safe, than extra sorry huh?
Take care,
Chris
As always, I am not always 100% correct, so the others who have more experience can ratify tmy advice/opinions as they see fit. Seems that most of the information is all together here in this thread though...
Last edited by cds00bsmg; 09-22-05 at 01:53 PM.
09-22-05, 03:12 PM
#27
Passing life by
ReTed has done just that. www.fc3spro.com
09-22-05, 06:37 PM
#29
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erm.....
I would budget quite a few thousand dollars for the setup if your starting with a stock car. It will vary depending on brands you use, if you get parts new or used, if you already have some things done, etc. But just to give you a basic idea,:
BNR stage III, thats 799.99 right now for a S4 stage III, $750.00 for a S5 stage III.
Haltech e6x unit flying lead kit (ebay): $1150 plus $10 shipping
So, there you already have $1959.99
Then you need all of the other stuff spoken about, exhaust, FMIC, BOV, Injectors, Gauges, Tuning & Dyno time, Installation fees if your not doing it yourself...
So yes, its definately not cheap, but if your going to do something right, you can't skimp.
~Chris
I would budget quite a few thousand dollars for the setup if your starting with a stock car. It will vary depending on brands you use, if you get parts new or used, if you already have some things done, etc. But just to give you a basic idea,:
BNR stage III, thats 799.99 right now for a S4 stage III, $750.00 for a S5 stage III.
Haltech e6x unit flying lead kit (ebay): $1150 plus $10 shipping
So, there you already have $1959.99
Then you need all of the other stuff spoken about, exhaust, FMIC, BOV, Injectors, Gauges, Tuning & Dyno time, Installation fees if your not doing it yourself...
So yes, its definately not cheap, but if your going to do something right, you can't skimp.
~Chris
09-22-05, 07:25 PM
#30
Passing life by
To do a 400whp system with new parts will cost around 6.5 to 9k with no labor. Yes there is ways to half *** it or another method then mine but I will leave that to you and anyone ells that wants to argue. I am basing this from my research and parts gathered for my 450whp setup.
09-22-05, 07:57 PM
#31
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I'm running a BNR stage 3 and plan on making over 350 to the wheels @ 17 psi....best exhaust for the pricing I would say is the SS autochrome single 80mm..I'm not so sure a 550cc/1000cc+ setup would work. Wouldn't the car lean out before the secondarys kicked in? I'd say to be safe upgrade the primarys to 720cc+ just to be safe.
09-22-05, 10:32 PM
#32
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Iceblue's price estimate is probably just right. It all just depends on how you want to go about doing it, but if your going to do it, then do it right. If you half-*** it, then your probably going to get a blown motor, and minimum cost is going to be $1200 to have Kevin rebuild it for you...
09-22-05, 10:56 PM
#33
Originally Posted by SmogSUX
I'm not so sure a 550cc/1000cc+ setup would work. Wouldn't the car lean out before the secondarys kicked in? I'd say to be safe upgrade the primarys to 720cc+ just to be safe.
09-23-05, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Bukwild
If you go with a haltech contact k2rd. They made me a preterminated wiring harness for $110 that was a huge help.
Sorry for the hijack.
09-23-05, 03:11 PM
#38
Originally Posted by SmogSUX
I'm running a BNR stage 3 and plan on making over 350 to the wheels @ 17 psi....best exhaust for the pricing I would say is the SS autochrome single 80mm..I'm not so sure a 550cc/1000cc+ setup would work. Wouldn't the car lean out before the secondarys kicked in? I'd say to be safe upgrade the primarys to 720cc+ just to be safe.
09-23-05, 05:40 PM
#39
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SS is a cheap (price wise) knock off....but I know 2 guys that have had theirs for awhile now and also know one guy with the corksport...only difference I found between them was that the corksport has a badge on it with their company logo...neither look as though they are developing weak spots or anything...as far as I'm concerned they are about the same quality.
edit: ehh I don't think the corksport has that setion that narrows to 2.5"...i could be wrong.
edit: ehh I don't think the corksport has that setion that narrows to 2.5"...i could be wrong.
Last edited by SmogSUX; 09-23-05 at 06:00 PM.
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