The D585 ignition coil info needs to be archived!

I have had horrible experiences with autopart store brand waterpumps, alternators and starters. After 2 bad orielly brand rx7 water pumps I said **** it and got OEM. The OEM even had more fins and a much smoother casting on the impleller than the orielly garbage. The orielly pump impellers looked like they where in mud. Both problems with the 2 water pumps from orielly was caused by the boss being pressed on crooked and would cause EXTREME vibration.

I bought an autozone alternator and it was DOA. Said **** this considering the experience with orielly and ordered a bosch unit. The bosch unit is rock solid and only 50 bucks more.

Although I still have the orielly starter on my car, I hate it! It has to be the weakest starter ever known to man other than a hand crank. When I bought a new battery a few years ago, I got the biggest battery I could possibly fit in the stock location and it's 900CA (or CCA, I forgot), much more than the factory size. My stock starter was a beast on the new battery but unfortunately the bushes in the motor wore out. The orielly starter has been a gutless piece of garbage out of the box and I have just lived with it. It can barely turn the engine over sub 30*F and I have tested everything from the battery to the cables in between and its just a shitty starter.

 

The stock solenoids can be swapped if you need to, FD owners have known this for years. As for how solenoids work, they're just like relays. They just switch fluids on/off instead of lights/fans/etc.

The solenoid rack I made for my 20B-REW works identically to the stock JC Cosmo one, mine are just more accessible for servicing if the need arises. 4mm silicone hose throughout on mine.

Already created a FC D585 conversion kit as well, it compliments the solenoid kits I offer well. More info is on my site, www.re-tronix.tk

 

I've passed emissions with all emissions related items removed on the engine in AZ. Only things bolted on for emissions week was a cat and air pump.

They do two tests.
1: look for the charcoal canister and clamp it off to test gas tank pressure.
2: Dyno load test

The visual inspection is easy. I had block off plates and just a corvette airpump stuffed against the strut tower. All they cared about was the charcoal canister and line to clamp.

The Dyno is a bit harder. You need a decently healthy motor, cat, and airpump.
I almost passed as zero emissions with a good cat and vette air pump.

If you want, you can also gut the ACV diaphragm so the air pump always send air to the cat making it a bit cleaner for that testing. Probably doesn't do well on cat longevity though.

I made a diagram years ago on a modified vac system. I'll try and find it.

 

You can ditch the orange fuel FPR solenoid. I found zero change between it and not running one.

 

This explanation makes so much sense. Your website also has some pretty kick-*** stuff. I'm curious though, how much work is involved in doing a D585 conversion? You don't need to give any trade secrets (if you want to call them that), but I'm genuinely interested.

....Where on earth do you get your car emissions tested? I think I'll be making the trek to there from now on...

Congratulations, you have completely scared me away from aftermarket starters and water pumps.

I'll probably leave all of my emissions equipment intact for now, but I'll definitely refer to this diagram in the future. Thanks!

(On a semi-unrelated note, but weren't you that guy at Soulless talking about those LED tail lights?)

 

^yes, I do led tails and stuff as well.

I personally haven't gone through emissions in about 6 years because I switched to collector car insurance which makes me emissions exempt.

 

It's not too difficult, just a matter of identifying which wire is which (power, signal, etc) and matching them to the new coils. The toggle signal is what trips people up, so I designed an adapter that simulates it as far as the ECU can see, but routes the proper trailing signals to the new trailing coils.

And I just designed one to adapt D585s to a 20B Cosmo while keeping the NF01 ECU. What, I was bored today

 

lol, that does fit the qualification.

 

Sweet. You've got your G35 though, so I assume you switched insurance and got a mileage quota?

For the electronically-illiterate, it sure as hell sounds difficult. How do you "simulate" the signal?

 

In simple terms, the Toggle Signal "enables" the proper trailing coil (front or rear), while the Trailing Signal triggers said coil to fire its spark plug. The FC was pretty easy to figure out in that respect, but the JC Cosmo's signals are a tad more complex to 'decode' in that respect as it has three coils that have to fire in a specified sequence. Mazda went from "A-B-A-B-A-B" on the 13B to "A-B-C-A-B-C" on the 20B, so it's a bit more tricky.

 

i have yet to run across anything else that works like the FC/JC trailing toggle function, it is an odd duck