UnderConstruction7

Today after a nice drive around Orlando, my car over heated(i'm guessing, gauges stopped working...again) & did the hesitation that occurs during the 3K hesitation.

I've read that regrounding the grounding points with new wire helps the 3k hesitation. My question is, which ground could cause the motor to just spudder for like a quick second? I was also curious about if this can be caused by my injectors. I plan on doing that along with the spark plugs & wires, injectors, new oil, etc... Also. I blow out white smoke during warm up & revving, thats another reason I was getting some new injectors. What would be a good brand to use?

Another question, currently my gauge cluster doesn't work. I put in a new fuse yesterday & it blew today. So i'm guessing I have a short somewhere. My question is, is there any common place where others have gotten a short for their clusters.

Exactly how do will I know when a rotor goes out? Lately every now & then a popping noice has come from the engine bay(im usually driving).
After I got home I popped the hood & there was steam coming from where the cap furthur up the cooling tube next to motor. What would cause my rotary to heat up aside from antifreeze(just put that in)

PureSephiroth

grounding is for the 3,800 rpm hesitation. That's when the secondary injectors kick in. If its getting stuck at 3,000 rpm you probably have a different problem.

WAYNE88N/A

Do you have any "add-on" grounds on the car?

The "meter" fuse powers the gauges, but it also powers other things you may want to look at, like CPU, back up lights, and the warning lights panel...Wouldn't be too hard to disconnect the plugs for the back up lights, and throw another fuse in her, to see what she does, at least rule those out (or in, lol)...

I had that little "mini-hesitation" thing going on too, and traced it to the FPR (should FINALLY have the new one tomorrow, so I'll know for sure)...So if everything else checks out, take that sucker off & clean it up & beat on it a little, that helped me a lot, she ran great for 3 or 4 days, but now she's starting it again, lol...

skatingsamurai

FPR?...sorry im a noob i dont know what that means


i too am haveing a hesitation problem. unfortunatly mine seems MUCH worse. the power seems to cut out when i give hard gas in idle, but revs ok~ when i rev it real slowly.

and whenever i put any kind of medium load on the engine( letting the clutch out or accelterating) it bucks like a freeking bronco. One time i got so frusterated with it( because i tried grounding the ecu,boost sensor, leading coil, trailing coil, and fuel injection rail, changed spark wire spark plugs, changed the oil, tried fuel injector cleaner, AND octane booster) i just slammed on the gas and diddnt let go. diddnt really have any reasonce at first then ran,then hesitated then ran, then hesitated than ran then hesitated over and over again. And it was also doin somthing funky...like take the "d" in the spanish word padro, and elongate it....thats the sound my car was making when it was driving.

maybe its the coils not giving spark?
maybe the injectors are clogged?
maybe its electrical???
i need help either way

Nicks87

huh, I have the same pop thing going on but it is at an idle, it is like a click or a ping, and mine floods like a river. Could this be related to his? What happen with mine is I revved mine up a little to happily (8000+) for about a second one day accidently and now it has this noise. What is it? Thanks dont mean to hiijack this thread or anything. just wondering if it is the same thing.

ForeverRotary

As far as underconstruction7 goes, you will know when a rotary engine blows. I had one blow in one of my rx's. In my case the car started over heating more and more frequently. I found that this was due to blowing the coolent seal in one of the rear housings. The car started hesitating between 2500 and 3500 rpms. Then ofcorse came all the white smoke from the exhaust. But for you and skatingsamurai i think the easiest way to figure it out is to take your cars to an actual mazda dealership. I'm against going to them f at all possible due to there overcharging everything and lack of rotary knowlege at most of the dealerships (at least in my area) but usually theywill do a complete inspection of the car for $100. Thats how i found out my seal was blown...