ok im gonna try again...
i posted similar to this when i first got my 7, and now that its finally on the road, i need help desperately.
and yes i have searched the 3800rpm stumble btw...

the car will not rev past 3800rpm at all.
first off, it takes about 4 seconds @ WOT to reach 3800, and when it gets there it just stays pinned, like some kind of limiter is in place. while driving, if i try to shift @ 3000rpm or higher, i get ALOT of vibration from the shifter, and i can hear the engine and tranny vibrating as well.

any help would be appreciated.
id rather not get a jspec right now (i dont have the $$)
and id really like to get the car 'driveable'
thanx

 

have you checked the timing? and the secondary fuel injectors?

does the car idle well?

 

Secondary fuel injectors are not firing...



-Ted

 

it actually does idle steady. how would you check timing on a rotary??

thanx guys, also, if lets say i replace the injectors, will this also help the fact that
1. i make less than stock boost and
2. rev so slowly to 3800 rpm, or any rpm for that matter?

 

.............

 

sounds like your running on your trailing plugs only.

i had that problem when i installed my jacob's ign. box. i wired it up wrong and fried my leading ignitors. i drove the car home that night and the car wouldnt pass 3000 somethin rpms. so it might be your ignitors dude, check em! you could prolly get them at a junk yard really cheap. dont ask me how to check em though cause i dont have a clue

check and see if you getting spark to your leading plugs!

 

My car revved past 3K fine on just the trailing plugs (forgot to reconnect leading coil!), it was just way down on power.
If it hits a brick wall at 3800, the secondary injectors are definitely not firing. Check all connections and wires.

 

the car will not rev past 3800rpm at all.
first off, it takes about 4 seconds @ WOT to reach 3800, and when it gets there it just stays pinned, like some kind of limiter is in place. while driving, if i try to shift @ 3000rpm or higher, i get ALOT of vibration from the shifter, and i can hear the engine and tranny vibrating as well.


hey nzconvertible he's says even at 3000rpm he gets vibration thru the engine/tranny.

that doesnt sound like secondaries to me as they would come on at 3600 or so rpms, right?

maybe my car ran higher rpms on the trailing i dont remember correctly it was a long time ago but i do remember it not reving to 4500-5000 rpm no matter how much i smashed on the gas peddle

 

The secondaries are supposed come on at 3800rpm, right where he says the problem is, so they have to be suspect #1. If the secondaries aren't firing the engine won't rev past 3800 no matter what you do.
The vibration might be because the engine is only running on one rotor, which could be an spark plug problem or a cracked apex seal. Either would cause the lack of power below 3800, but one's a lot more expensive to fix! A compression test will confirm this.
The reason I don't think it's leading plugs not firing is because they either fire together or not at all, and my engine ran as smoothly as normal on just the trailing plugs, just with less power.

 

i confirm this, as the fuse to my jacobs box blew last week, and the car still ran. just no power. got to admit that it scared the **** out of me as the engine had 1500 miles on it at that time. i agree that it is the secondary fuel system from the sound of it.

peace

 

Just something else to think about, is there a chance teh dash has been pulled out of the car? I had mine out and shorted the boost gauge to ground by not tightening a screw all the way down. It would idle perfectly fine but when the turbo spooled at all the engine would take a crap. Wouldn't rev over 3 something, it was very rough and was not really even drivable. Of course my idea is completely out the window if you don't drive a TII.

 

if you find out what it is, post it up, id like to know how it turns out.

p.s. has anything been changed on the car recently (ie. any new mods etc)?

 

I am having the same problem except in 1st & 2nd gear, the secondaries will kick in after a second about 1/2 the time. In 3rd-5th, no go at all for 3800+ rpm. I was going to check the secondary injectors last night, but one of the bolts was corroded on and I ran out of daylight, weekend project i guess.
It suck not being able to go over 95 in 5th.
Will post if I find anything.

'86 rex
13b turbo
100% stock

 

bump

 

bump one more time

 

Try running the car up to revs slowly and see if it will go past 3800 rpm. It sounds like more trouble than the secondaries. I ran for months with my secondaries disconnected. If you slowly came up to speed you could get past the 3800 mark.
hanman

 

I've done some driving and found that speeding up slowly increases the chances of getting past 3800, but not all the time. When I do get past 3800, she drives smooth as silk, lots of power, but then I shift up, and she jerks until at 3800 where she levels off. She won't go over 3800 in 4th or 5th at all. I found that there is a sweet spot in the throttle where it likes to go over 3800, but it is extremely narrow. I have to give a little...take a little to find it just right.

I played with the actuators and the one on the back of the motor is fine, but the front side one seems to be rough-turning about 1/2 way through opening.

What kind of problem(s) do the pro's think this is? Injectors? grounding? ports? please

 

Secondary fuel injectors are not working...
(Boy, do I feel like a broken record.)



-Ted

 

(Boy, do I feel like a broken record.)

Thats a good one RETed. Someone sometime will probably attribute that comment to Yogi Berra. I have a bunch in the basement, my 8 yr old niece found them, asked what they were.

 

Lets say that you had the same exact problem as this on a 85 13B in a GSL-SE, where there is only 1 set of injectors... What would you guess the problem to be?

 

This is a very old post by the way. See the date???? If it took him four seconds to get to 3800 rpm.....it sure as hell was not the secondary fuel injectors. He had a major problem. First thought is a bad apex seal. Second thought is the plug wires are on *** backwards/mixed/off. No third thought. Not worth thinking about.

Do a simple compression test. Take the bottom plugs out. Put your thumb/finger over the front hole. Spin the engine. Repeat the same for the rear hole. They should feel the same. By not feeling the same I mean a broken apex seal will feel/sound will stand out compared to the *other* rotor. AS in ....no pushy the thumb off the hole at all when the engine is spun.