95240Sx

haha your rite i dont know **** about rotarys.... but piston motors ll day long i know haha... jus saying.... ls1 mount kit under a g...

cam it and ull b over 400 hp
no boost lag or worrying about booost just nail it n go

(just a suggestion) and your rite i have a s13 with a ls in it ... gets up and goes haha

althought 13b motors an what 20b? are beast when u do them rite ive seen vids they are nutzzzzzzzzzzzz

ben.farnath

oh yea block off all emissions, remove omp and premix. full exhaust system, no cats.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

Plan to get some suspension mods man, speed kills!!

jerd_hambone

While it may be fine in your eyes to bash every V8 RX-7 idea, that doesn't give you the right to do so.

OP asked for the easiest way for 350hp for a budget, while it may not meet to your standards, you can't deny that a V8 swap is the easiest way.

So calm down, and try to understand that not everyone has as closed a mind or as biased an opinion.

As for 350hp goal, rebuild would be highly suggested no matter what engine you get. Factor in dyno tuning. Clutch. TII drivetrain. Cooling system upgrade. Front mount or V mount setup. Either hybrid or bigger turbo.

It may be easy to hit 350, but doing it reliably and safely, you start to stray from cheap.

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

Imma just quote this.... Again.
Now let's see here...
…The OP denied the V8, so I figure that gives free range to open fire XD
Also, we have an "alternate engine swap" section [that I naturally never visit]... There are also entire other forums for "that". This is 2nd Generation Specific Technical: Technically - the FC never came with one ^_-

For a budget 350HP build... I don't really see how it's any significant amount easier to remove all of the factory parts and install foreign parts than to add/swap parts [Exhaust is easy, injectors are pretty easy, engine computer is SUPER easy if it's Rtek... Other stuff starts getting there, I admit that]

My real problem is probably something like this: I feel throughly insulted when people "give up" on the rotary. [I'd like to imagine the engineers at Mazda feel the same way - the president of Mazda during FD dev. certainly would've: sig. quote]

95240Sx >> Thanks for taking it the right way. ^_^ I was a bit worried you might think I was trying to be mean [I really don't like to be mean or even confrontative... but the V8 swaps just tick me off to no end.. see above]

Hyper >> +1! Suspension is a must!

One final note before I hope we can drop this [awful] subject again I don't dislike V8s, they sound great, make great power - quite reliably, and every hick with a wrench has probably built about a dozen of them. I just want them to stay in their homes: Muscle cars and trucks.

jerd_hambone

I never give up on the rotary haha, he denied the carbed 350 idea. The LS is a whole different animal haha. I'm not offended by a purist, I was one until I sat down and weighed my options vs what I want my car to do. And my next project will be a 13B bridged FB. There is no way I'll give up on rotary.

Reaching 350 isn't too big a problem, but generally on a rotary, "budget" is a term you use effectively haha. There is a lot to consider, and prep for.

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

All >> Bunnybunny:
^_^ I am genuinely happy to hear that you haven't given up. [Please send me a PM if you make a thread about that FB, it sounds like an awesome project]

He did say "against putting in something with pistons" so the LS is precluded as well...

lol.. Yea the key seems to be finding deals, for my 91 A package-> Turbo swap I've managed to get some pretty amazing ones: a RB REV TII catback for $100, a JDM reman with manifolds, turbo and everything except a wiring harness for $260, a pair of T2 transmissions for $120, etc.. But I've been saving parts for over a year and a half now slowly finding these deals. [and I've been unemployed for the last ~year, I definitely feel the budget crunch..]

I'm glad that my [extreme] purism isn't offensive. XD
I hope you never take any of my V8-bashing personally.. If you've thought that I ever said anything that way, I apologize. I really don't want anyone to feel like I'm attacking *their build* [I have seen a couple of VERY well installed V8s in FDs... I just hate that it's not a rotary :/]
>_< I hope I'm explaining clearly.. I like you, I like your car, I like your build, I don't like it being [non-rotary]

We cool ?

jerd_hambone

Haha no problems, just told you to calm down a bit because you are always fired up at the thought of it hahahaha. I didn't see the no pistons statement, just the no 350 part haha.

Where the frig did you get a RB exhaust for $100?! That's insane to find deals like that. I traded an old Fossil watch for a full 350 and trans, and my cars going to be based around going as quickly in the 1/4 as possible and that's it. So the pistons seem the best way for me.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

How is a V8 swap the easiest way?

Get a j-spec 13B from a trusted importer, install with associated RTek, injectors, medium sized intercooler and hybrid stock turbo. Done. No fabrication, not cutting and welding, etc. It all bolts right in with aftermarket parts and will run $3000.

Certainly better then pulling some random 350 out of an '80s vehicle (carbureted, cast iron POS).

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

that's true with any engine. and if you compare apples to apples (ie new parts to new parts) the rotary was still just about the cheapest engine on the planet to build.

the only reason that its easy to get big HP numbers from a v8, is because it sucked so bad in the first place! a 13B would have to make 100hp to make the same hp/liter as an 80's V8.

jerd_hambone

Even from a "trusted importer" there can be zero guarantee that the engine will have any longevity. So I would have that engine rebuilt.

I already have a high nickel 350 roller cam block, bored .030 over, with new bearings, rods, pistons, a forged crank, and a set of Vortec heads. I also have a rebuilt 700R4 transmission. I have a set of headers and Flowmaster mufflers as well. The engine ran exceptionally well when pulled in December. And with a proper carb, intake manifold, and cam, the engine should be well into where I want it.

What I do not have is a Jspec 13B, Rtek, injectors, medium sized intercooler, and a hybrid stock turbo.

So for me, the 350 swap is MUCH better for my needs/wants.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

stop interjecting with your needs and wants in someone else's thread where they express their needs and wants.

jerd_hambone

Not meaning to actually, I responded with what works for me, which my combination should be good for the 350hp range. So therefore my needs and wants do apply here, as it's still part of the viable argument and can be used as a tip for making 350hp.

I also have added in tips for making 350 on a 13B.

You have only expressed your want to be a moderator by telling people what they can and cannot do in a thread that is not yours. If the O.P. has a problem with my posts, I'll refrain.

If any of my posts are deemed not worthy, by all means, they can be removed and I won't be offended one bit.

Brichey1

Flaco suggested the same thing, I think this is the route i'll end up going.
Dont want this to become a flame war,
But taking V8's and putting them in RX7's is cool, and it makes them fast, and I respect anyone who takes in the fab time to do the swap.
But for me taking the rotary out of an RX7 is something i don't want do.
it's a one of kind engine and I'd like to keep it.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The post you quote above is terrible advice. Half bridge to make only 350HP? Waste of a bridgeport and will only get you poor fuel economy and an engine that is difficult to tune.

Stock ports are fine at the 350 HP level. Also an RTek will easily support that power level instead of a Microtech (I would NEVER suggest anyone buy a Microtech...it is antiquated at this point and actually a WORSE choice for a 350HP daily driver than an RTek). A hybrid stock turbo is the way to go since you don't have to buy a manifold. If you want to upgrade turbos, look at the T4B, GT35R and turbos along those lines.

ben.farnath

really? dont use a microtech. either you got terrible tuners over there or all of NZ must be using witch craft to run their cars? (or you only have experience with old models?) anyway my suggestion of mods was a half joke because i ignored his 350 hp brief and wrote a list for big and reliable. and expensive but it would be worth a couple years wait

junito1

japan2la JDM motor =1500- 1600$
No rebuild = 0$
used haltech microtech = 700$
Good custom manifold with thick runners for no cracks = 400$ ( find a local dont buy from 1000$ full of **** and will crack manifolds)


Find a used t4 footprint turbo. bigger & less boost = shitty powerband but more reliable.
400$ or so.

ID injectors 800$
aeromotive 340 unitversal intank pump = 175$
The last but most important part of the puzzle = e85.

Your car is builty in 1 year=P


Less than 4 thousand. your lookind at around 3700..


While this engine wears out you can be using you other 2300 to gather your next engine parts. good seals and port work.




BY the way 4000 dollars is wayyyyy to much for building a ported block.
Unless it includes all labor.... engines pulled rebuilt and reinstalled in working condition.

junito1

Aaroncake. some of the most powerfull cars ont his forum run microtechs.

Top rotary tuners including kilo racing prefer microtech,. nuff said.

But you are right about not needing full EMS and the rtek being adequate for a 350whp goal.

ben.farnath

i thought as much about aaroncake. read alot of his posts really knowledgeable guy. (probably one of the most knowledgable) was just confused on the microtech not being recommended. (pretty sure no one in nz uses chips or even really piggybacks. just throw away stock ecu and go all out) rtek being adequate for 350whp why not go for something thats good for now and great for later. hes gonna want more power and mods down the track so why spend money twice.

junito1

HE knows his ****, no doubt. I wish he would give microtech a chance.=)

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I wondered if I would have to justify my comments regarding Microtech.

Remember, I have a Microtech LT8s on my car, which is driven nearly daily and makes just North of 500 RWHP. I've had this ECU on the car for 5 years and have many hours tuning this and other Microtechs.

But I can never recommend Microtech to anyone. I'm happy with mine because it has been reliable and doesn't suffer the trigger problems that many other ECUs seem to have.

So why would I not recommend it?

-no closed loop
-no 3D timing table
-no save to disk
-poor interpolation between load points on lower resolution table, making it hard to get a smooth tune
-inputs/outputs only configurable by sending ECU back to manufacturer
-necessity of a "dongle" to communicate with computer
-seriously out of date computer software

Microtech has promised us many of these features for 10 years yet not delivered on a single one. We were always told "After the LT16". Now the LT16 is here and it lacks these key features as well... http://microtechefi.com/download/LT16-spec.pdf .

Top tuners often prefer the ECUs on which they have the most experience. Sometimes regardless of how out of date they are. Keep in mind that all of these features I point out have been standard on most other ECUs for over 10 years.

ben.farnath

Cool man. Wasnt saying you didnt have good reason l just wanted to know what it was. What standalones would you recommend? needing the dongle is a bit of a joke.

jerd_hambone

I was about to say that tuners usually stick with what they know, but Aaron got there first.

As for everything else, Aaron does know his stuff and can definitely point you in the right direction.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

haltech is in the same boat. HIGGI and i were playing with an E6X and that thing is such a primitive POS that i don't know how we got the cars to run right back in 2003!

the Rtek is kind of a pain to tune cause you need a palm, but it is plug and play... the haltech is plug and troubleshoot!

ben.farnath

what about haltech platinum sprint re?