Brichey1

I pretty much have a full FC shell, but I'm looking to get into the 350hp range, I've been going back and forth between swaps and what to do.
What would be the easiest way to get to my goal, without spending excess.
I have 6000.00 a year to spend, my wife wont let me spend anymore.
So far the cheapest thing i can think of is 13b Turbo. I found a shop that will build and port for 4000.00 here and then it will be ready for turbo at 320hp.

I'd like a little guidance i'm all ears.

freq

iTrader: (6)

FMIC, Water Injection, 720cc or larger secondary injectors, RTek ECU, Hybrid Turbo-mount a larger compressor onto your stock turbine, ported wastegate, downpipe, TID.
If you can do the installs yourself and you source good deals on the parts, you can easily do the above for under $2500.

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

Assuming of course, he already had a running engine, which, as of now, does not appear to be the case. He'll have to factor in an engine and potentially a rebuild into that cost.

3vil

iTrader: (4)

carb'd 350 from a wrecked 80's vehicle with a big nitrous shot would probably be the cheapest

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

I knew someone would eventually suggest a V8 swap. I'm not a fan, so I left it to somebody else. With no current running engine, it really is probably the cheapest way to 350 hp.

freq

iTrader: (6)

$1200 for an imported jdm engine and $100 for soft seals.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

+1 V8 swap.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

A v8 is the cheapest way to go for sure, but I have a feeling you didn't come to rx7club for advice wanting to swap in a v8.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

1600cc secondaries, 720cc primaries, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Racing Beat REV-TII exhaust, TII drivetrain, 3mm apex seal + rebuild with mild street port, custom intake, A'PEXi Power FC for FD3S with Banzai adapter, BNR Stage 4 turbo, custom FMIC set-up + BOV, remove all emissions, aftermarket FPR, Koyo radiator... I am probably forgetting things. (The BNR stage 4 is rated up to 400hp.)

This set-up tuned by Steve Kan; 322hp @ 12psi

This was expensive, but an overall great experience. Go V8 if you'd like... I'm not sure that this would be the forum for that, though.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i'd start with a JDM engine (just because it comes with the intakes and fuel rails and stuff), rebuild with new seals + rotor housings (it makes a huge difference). put a bigger compressor on the stock turbo, you can do it, or BNR can do it. it needs bigger fuel pump. it needs more injector, 4x720, or 550/1000 or whatever. you also need some kind of ecu to control the injectors (Power FC, Rtek, ??). you need a 3" exhaust.

a bigger intercooler is nice.

stock turbo needs @15+ psi.

you could run a full T4, 60-1 at around 12psi too

street port on the stock turbo might add 10-20hp, with the T4 its more like 50. so a 13BT with new parts in it, street port and 12psi on a 60-1 should be right around 390rwhp.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Wow those 1600/720 injectors are overkill for 322hp.

Brichey1

I have a secondary 13b sitting in a parts car.
But the shell has nothing right now.

I've considered a V8 but i'm against putting in something with pistons before I ruin the chance to enjoy what the rx7 was built for.

So a JDM Turbo2 full swap would be the best place to start?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Are you looking for 350whp (I assume at some point you want a dyno sheet) easy, with room for more, or 350 by stretching what you have to keep the budget down? A hybrid turbo going for 350whp is stretching it. Sure they can do it, and there are a few dyno sheets showing more than that, but you won't have much room to grow with the setup. It's certainly in the upper range of what a bolt-on turbo can do on all but the most generous dynos.

How important are spool and top end to you? Do you want an engine that will still have usable power over 7000+ rpm or do you value part throttle around-town torque more?

What exactly does this shell consist of? It's a non turbo car? What wiring is still left? Is it road worthy? Is the interior trashed? Restoring a POS adds up if you care about aesthetics at all.

J5sense

iTrader: (3)

i am interested too... Suscribed....

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

OI went conservtive boost-wise... I was only able to tune on two plugs. :-/

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

Thank you. ^_^

Yep, full T2 drivetrain sounds like a good place to start. [Just don't trust it until it's been gone through..]

jerd_hambone

An FC with an aluminum LS weighs less than a stock TII. Also has almost identical weight distribution.

Brichey1

So I just found someone in my area with a complete 20b swap kit for an FD, would it be much work to adapt it to my FC?
It says it comes with a supercharger, but the guy is only asking 4k
Is it too good to be true?

How much PSI dose the stock turbo on the TII's push?
I'd be better off making as much power without the turbo before I added it on correct?
I don't want to be horribly slow out of boost.

I think having usable power over 7krpms would be the better way to go, the more rev room the more power output.
In most cases high rev engines will build boost faster.

jerd_hambone

Stock TII is in the 8psi area. As for the supercharged 20b setup, I've not heard of that being done, and to swap it in and have it all buttoned up would be pushing your budget hard.

If you want to stay rotary, contact Japan2la on here for an engine. Budget in a rebuild, BNR stage 4, Rtek ecu, and the supporting mods for fuel. You would be fairly close to your goal.

And as for the usable power above 7k, the stock shift point is hardly over 7. Once you start revving over 7.5 you are getting out of breathing range.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if you have nothing, a JDM motor is the simplest way to get all the hard parts, engine, intakes, fuel rails, transmission, etc etc

TheAbsence

iTrader: (19)

If you want a high revving engine over 7k rpm, why would you go with a supercharger?

If you don't care about midrange response or low rpm boost, then go with a big port size if you reallllllly want that high rpm, but realize that a bridgeport typically won't last as long as a street port.

Please read Howard Coleman's guides on alcohol injection here:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/feeding-turbo-rotary-horsepower-airflow-fuels-881992/
https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/


That turbo probably won't last long.

NatAsRex7

iTrader: (5)

get a horse with a lot of rope and tie it to the chassis of the car. then whip as hard as you can.

yeah whip that **** muufukka



no...

ahh the cheapest way to get power.. rotary.

95240Sx

ls1 ... done deal

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

While that may be fine for your 240, it's not fine for this - he already even considered and rejected that. Also, you have no idea how to work with a rotary so please don't jump into random other threads and suggest crap.
Thanks. Now let's get back to your convertible's problems...

ben.farnath

easier to fit 20b into fc than fd so thatd be cool. id get rid of the supercharger tho and spend up large on pp'ing it or turbo.

for 13b route id go half bridge rebuilt and dowelled block from a jc.grab yourself a microtech ecu. 850cc primaries and 1600cc secondaries and fuel rails while youre at it. surge tank with bosch 044 pump. some bosch coils, 10mm leads, ngk bur9eqs all round. fmic. atleast 50mm wastgate and a masterpower turbo (discuss with them whether you want laggy heavy hitting or resonsive) or other of your choice. chuck some gillys, and lightened flywheel and heavy duty clutchl at it for fun. ewp and alternater relocation kit (if you got rid of your powersteer and aircon) thick core radiator and biggest electric fan possible. probably forgot stuff and itll take a couple years on your budget and youll be well past 350 horse but you wont regret it.