if you want it to go faster just put an rx8 engine in it and then mod the crap out of it... or a v8.... id go with the renisis i wish i could do that.

 

IN before LS1......oh shi.........

But really, if you have to ask you cant do it, and most likly dont have the funds to do it. You could always build a good reliable Na-T setup and most lily thats all that you would ever want or need. Most people think they can handle 300HP, but in the end they cant or didnt upgrade anything else on the car to keep up.

 

Oh, you mean the kit that costs more than the car?


-Ted

 

Please don't post if you don't know what you're talking about.


-Ted

 

excuse the newbiness ... but if 2 rotors make ~160hp, how can 3 rotors do 300 easily? would a street port give ~100whp / rotor or you have to go more aggressive? i LOVE turbo's, but that would be awesome to drive a 300whp na rotary =)

 

i say go and do it, and dont forget to report back + videos of you 300hp NA beast but most likely you soon will wake up and realize how unrealistic your idea sounds and eraser it for good.

this thread needs deletion

 

Claimed 340-360 hp N/A.

https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/my-rx-7-done-cup-holders-3-rotor-semi-p-port-n-setup-stock-subframe-454580/

Enjoy the read.

 

Its also a 3 rotor, and has gobs of money put into it.

 

Yep, thats the one I'm talking about. Like I said, it exists but its really expensive.

 

thats very impressive ,but too bad 89 NA rx7 came only with 2 rotors

 

Original poster only mentioned porting, he didn't say no to engine swaps .

 

your best bet would be the biggest street port and webber carb. you can get around 200hp to the wheels, supposivly. then either nitrous or super chager. but 200 to the rear wheels all motor would be decenitly quick.

 

Geez not again...

Spend $5,000 - $10,000 to build a 300whp N/A

Spend $3,000 and turbo it... Not a tough decision...

 

You know, for a thread that has gone on for three pages, Im quite surprised no one mentioned the fact that you can *approach* that number with ITB's and bridgeporting.

240-250whp isn't unheard of for a fully tuned, EMS'd ITB setup on a 13B. That's about 300bhp, for those just scanning for a three digit number beginning with 3.

NOW

With that said, you WON'T pass an e-test with it....however it will be streetable. In that, you can drive it without deafining yourself, it will idle - just at 1200 or so RPM - and it will be responsive enough to control during light throttle driving.

All in all:

Rebuild and porting: + or - $2000
ITB's setup with a mainfold and injectors: + or - $1100
EMS: $1000

Not taking into account periperhals like exhaust, radiator (if required), tuning and other stuff, you should be able to approach those numbers with a brand new engine for about 5g's.

 

Whatever you do, don't bother with a supercharger. Lots of people have the misconseption that slapping a supercharger on to a 13B is going to turn it into some sort of tire-melting V-8'ish torque monster of an engine. That doesn't happen. You end up with an engine that sees a net increase all across the powerband, so the torque and power feel the same, you just have a little more of it. And, in the case of the Camden EFI setup, you sink twice as much as the purchase price of your car into trying to make the POS setup work, and it doesn't (this is assuming you paid $3000 for your car, too).

As far as 300 wheel horsepower from a 13B, a properly set up (as in, the engine will probably cost you $10,000 if not more) peripheral port engine can get you there. If you spend a few more bucks and get a trick EFI setup, you could probably venture closer to 350rwhp (a few shops have done that, if not better). The cost is astronomical, the noise is unbearable, and the peformance per dollar ratio is about three times worse than if you went with a VERY NICE turbo stup.

If I, say, hit the lottery, or found a pot of gold, I would love to build a peripheral port 13B FC with tons of goodies, but even then I'd trailer it to the track, get kicked off because of noise restrictions, and go home all depressed.

 

WORD!

 

lol, people are funny....

why not try for 200 without a port.... and no turbo(im not dissin anyone here)
then Port lets say 50 - 75
thats breaking 280 or so
then Turbo



why would you spend 5 - 10g's for an N/A when you can spen 3 on a turbo?

we all know the answer... because that extra 2g's.... more like 1g if you do it yourself...

Will make them Turbo Fc's cry when you beat them with an N/A...

but seriously
get it running good first, then slowly put money into it... theres no such thing as someone droping cash into a car... unless your some rich kid, then go buy a civic...
but start with one thing at a time


"push them boundrys"
- dont remember

88Durel

 

or you can send your $10000 US over to NZ and get Kiwi RE to build you a 466bhp 20BPP

 

Turbo = more torque for the same HP, and at lower RPMs.

Winnar = Turbo.

Also, the stock gear ratios weren't meant to work with an engine that has a powerband that starts at 7K... nor was it designed to spin at 10K+ (hello shrapnel).

So once again, TURBO FTW.

 

Exactly what I am talking about. The fun part is seeing how far you can go, and spending lots of time playing with your car.

 

HAHAHA, ignorance? The subject of this thread is ******* ignorant.

 

Says someone who has been a member of the club for two years, but only has 150 posts.....

Don't be a hater.

 

In light of what he said: I never post on here because I don't like to get involved in uneducated pissing contests of who has a bigger set of ***** and brains. But I stumbled on this the other day because I was looking at carb options for an SCCA car. I notice that it doesn't mention anything about flywheel selection or other parasitic power takers, so take it as you will.

http://www.racingbeat.com/PDF/intake...at%20holley%22

 

The lower intake manifold ports dont properly match the engine
the roots blower is extremely inefficient
there's lots of ghetto rigging involved

to answer a question form a few pages back

 

True, you can get 300 flywheel hp with a bridge and an ITB setup, but I take any horsepower figures mentioned online as being wheel HP figures because there its not real way for 99.9% of people to find their true FWHP.