Does the 3 mod rule for FDs apply to FCs as well.
What do you guys reccommend as far as basic modifying to a 86 N/A. Im thinking somthing along the lines of cold air intake, header back exhaust (size?) and a nice fat radiator to keep it cool. This will be a basic daily driver so nothing drastic. Will I need an engine management system or just a fuel computer or what.

Any comments accepted. Thanks

 

For those of us fc owners that don't even look in the fd section.. what's the 3 mod rule?

 

you don't need fuel computers for your NA. it's not going to blow up like an FD will.

 

Not sure what the 3mod rule is, but cat replacement pipe and presilencer from racing beat is a good start, along with a catback exhaust. Then intake, and that should be it. I don't think you will need a new radiator with those mods, but flush the coolant system and replace t-stat for maintenance.

 

no n/a short of a race prep periphrial port realy needs a bigger radiator as long as the stock sytem is in good shape.

 

the three mod rule is 3 mods, then you need either a rechipped ecu or fuel computer. It is a stupid rule because if you put on a downpipe, midpipe and catback, you have still freed up your exhaust way too much, and will boost spike quite a bit. You can mod an N/A FC to your hearts content and never really need a fuel computer, short of getting a monster port job done.

 

the 3 mod rule doesnt apply to anything, you can have as many mods on your fd as you want and as long as its under 11psi its fine

 

I think that a standalone EMS is one of the first things you should buy if you are serious about performance. Otherwise, you can just add an intake and exhaust and call it good. A fuel computer is really more for turbocharged cars, and doesn't do much for a non-turbo car that has only an intake and exhaust. What you need to realize is that your 86 ECU is dog-slow, so any type of piggyback system or reprogrammed ECU must still work through the nasty stock ECU. If you decide on an EMS, I recommend the Wolf3DV4, Haltech E6 with 1bar MAP sensor, and the Haltech E11 with 1bar MAP sensor will be a good choice once the bugs get worked out. Microtech is also supposedly working on an EMS for non-turbo cars, but it isn't on the market yet.
http://www.wolfems.com.au/home
http://www.haltech.com.au/

The Racing Beat catback exhaust is pretty good.
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=16420
The RP 50mm catback isn't quite the same quality, but it's a good budget exhaust.
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/2catalo...at=11&part=150
Both of the above offer replacement cats/pipes, depending on your local regulations. Also, if you decide on a full exhaust, the Mazdatrix dual exhaust (sometimes called "true dual" by the technically-challenged folks) is rather popular with non-ported engines.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/r-ex86nt.htm
Other exhausts here:
http://66.216.67.51/subcat.asp?0=210

The stock FC radiator is awful, but it should still cool well enough with your limited modifications. If you are like me, and simply do not like the crummy plastic end tanks and the air problems, then you may want to get a replacement radiator. Fluidyne and K2RD make some decent drop-in replacement radiators. Always use a Mazda brand thermostat in the FC, as the aftermarket thermostats are complete junk and could ruin your engine.
http://66.216.67.51/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=352&1=354&2=-1

BTW, the main advantage of the NA FC is its handling qualities, so you may want to spend some money on good shocks, springs, and bushings to get the most out of the car. If you are like most NA FC owners, you will get much more enjoyment out of these modifications than you will on engine modifications that will only add a small amount of horsepower.

 

I am getting ready to install a Microtech on my 86 N/A car.

I am hoping for noticable increase in HP but since not ALOT of people have acctually full stand alone EMS systems in N/A's i am unsure of what to expect. My car is currently running completely stock ports on about a 24-25k mile engine. The damn thing runs great but my goal with all the mods i have is 200 hp at the flywheel BEFORE port work.

-Markus Reschny
www.mazsport.net

 

I whacked on a microtech in my "'85" S4 N/A, before I turbo'd it.

Can't say there was a huge increase in power, after I tunned it abit (not on a dyno, no print outs, sorry.. :-) ) it certainly felt faster to drive..

But that was on stock ports, I guess with a wild streetport or more you would expect much larger gains.

 

Wrong. N/A FC's usually run rich so controlling the fuel is very important and one of the keys to making the engine run better. Piggy back systems work pretty well but you are limited somewhat. Like Evil said a stand alone is the way to go.

 

OK so no computer for header, no cat, catback system, basically straight through system, and cold air intake. Any one kno who makes cold air intakes?
So it wont overheat in traffic on 90degree days? Thats why I was saying radiator also but if not then great.

 

Checkpoint Engineering makes a CAI
AzTech Rotary makes a CAI

 

we saw a 5rwhp gain with the haltech, granted our fuel tuning was off. car is stock ports, stock intake w cone, and full exhaust

 

Mostr of the gain is had in the midrange, by leaning it out. The majority of the improvement is throttle response. not nesccesarily brute power.

 

from 6000-9000 its over 145rwhp, we had work to do on the 4000-6000 part of the map too

 

just because a car will benefit from a fuel controler does not neccesitate it. icemark's n/a put down 175 to the wheels on a stock feul system and it was probobly still running rich.
an reasonably modded n/a engine will run safely and reliably on the stock fuel management, it just might not be running the ideal ratios for maximum power per mod.

 

we found a lot (all in our case) by playing with the timing

 

Ignore the 3 mod rule - stupid FD's use them cause of the MAP sensor based load ECU.

That doesn't mean you can do whatever you want to your FC - there are recommended guidelines to modify your FC though...


-Ted