JOE@FC3S.ORG

Just wondering who's doing what for 2nd gen race cars. I am curious as to what classes (ITS, ITE, GT1, ...etc.).

I am trying to get ideas for the future of my new 87 sport, so I am curious to set-ups, especially suspension set-ups and anything else that would be helpful.

Also, if anyone has any pics of cars like this, post those too .

Joe Romeo
www.FC3s.org
10th AE
87 Sport

go_speed_go

What racing are you planning to do.

What goals do you have for the car?

BOOSTD 7

I'm not planning to really compete in any sactioned racing, but I've done a lot of stuff on my '87 Turbo. If I had the money right now I'd go with a JIC suspension setup from Rishie. They're able to be custom tuned to your demands, 15 way adjustable compress and rebound I think, true threaded shock instead of collars. I guess one suspension oriented thing I did was get the Mariah widebody front fenders. They're stock looking, but about 1 1/2 inches wider. Lets you run up to 255's in front. That's a major help for FC's.

I'd be interested in some tubular sway bars for FC's. But as far as I know, nobody makes one. Maybe SpeedSource, but not sure.

On the engine side I'm going with a smallish 60-1 Hi-Fi and a bridgeport. The combo should yield 440 or so at the wheels with 0 lag and plenty of mid-range torque for popping out of corners.

Eric Henry

I'm surprised you need anyones opinion with all that you guys have done with the 86. When I'm bored I visit your website to memorize how to do future mods.

JOE@FC3S.ORG

The 87 sport will be a totally different project. The 86 started off as a street performance car that just got too out of hand now needs a race track .

As we build the 87, we want to keep the $$ as low as possible to show that racing doesn’t have to be ridiculously expensive (at least, that is the idea ) , so I am just trying to get some of the trial and error from others so I don't have to do all the experimenting myself.

Also, i am still deciding on what class to build it to. If I choose to go carbureted, that limits me to E-prod or ITE and eliminates ITS.


Joe Romeo
www.FC3s.org
10th AE
87 Sport

RacerJason

iTrader: (5)

CASC Regionals... for fun and lapping days so I can take friends for rides and watch them fill their shorts. I've got most of the goodies and a heck of a cage. PM me for pics or more info. Cheers

Silkworm

Glad you read my email or one like it hehehe

I'm racing ITS (or ProSedan 1 as it's known in NASA). For now, it's going to remain in ITS for the next few years while I get a clue, then progress either to an ITE car with a turbo 13b (or 350) or move to EP.


Setup wise, I can tell you what I plan to use but not how well it works yet.

Delrin bushings all around.
Mazda's coil over setup (Eibach ERS 400/275 springs)
Koni SA shocks
Eibach swaybars
Mazda Comp's Camber/Caster plates

Should work great, we'll see.

Here's a pic at it's current state

JOE@FC3S.ORG

Pretty sweet. The ITE class looked fun, and it seems that you can do almost anything. I’d like to eventually do a peripheral port engine in the 87 for that class since we are doing the turbo set-up on the 86. There is a P-port 3rd gen running around in the ITE class that does amazingly well.

Your paint job looks way too sweet for a race car though. I suggest you take either a 2 X 4 or a POS econo-box car and go to work on the fenders. The car would look much faster then

JOE@FC3S.ORG

I am scouting classes now, but leaning towards either ITS, ITE or E-prod. I am trying to find out where I could be the most competitive for the least $$. That is the major goal of the car. Probably ITS to start...

ItsRotary7

Joe - ITS is probably the most competitive class without spending alot of money.

go_speed_go

I think your goals may be slightly contradicting.
The most competative for the least $$$ would be buying an ITS car already built that someone else is moving on from. Unless you have access to parts at cost and don't mind all the time to build the car etc, the best route is to just buy one already done.

I think Silkworm can attest to this.

BTW Silkworm, it's nice to see your project so close to completetion. I seems like it was a long time ago you were posting pictures of the car's interior freshly gutted.

JOE@FC3S.ORG

Well, I'll agree with what you are saying that that may be cheaper, but I definitely want to build the car myself. I just would not enjoy racing a car that someone else built. I have enough resources for parts and know enough people that I should be set.

So to revise the goal, I would say that I want to build a competitive car for the least $$ .

JOE@FC3S.ORG

Agreed. I am going to round up either a Series 5 engine or the parts to assemble an n/a engine for this. When I get the SCCA rule book, does it cover the build specs for the classes, or is that an individual item? I know that the engine has to be stock (no porting), but I assume that I can choose any stock parts from any of the 86-91 cars...

ItsRotary7

Joe- you can update and backdate in ITS. We run a 86 chassis with 89 body panels. We also run series 5 motor and electronics. The second car is an 86 with a series 5 motor and a series 4 electronics. If your down in san diego stop by and I can show what can be done and what can't.

What size rims are on the car now. I recommend if they are the 14" then the brakes are to small change up to the 15" rims and brakes in you can.

If I can answer any more questions send me an E-mail.

Silkworm

Funny you mentioned that Go_speed.. I just posted an update on the website saying exactly that 2 years.. Amazing but true.

Building a racecar yourself is an incredibly educational experience. I know pretty much how every major component works, where the wiring goes for it, and what needs to be done to install or remove it. I can yank the top intake plenum in 20 minutes, and probably have the engine out of a car in 2-3 hours max. That comes from scouring junkyards, looking for parts, trying to understand the car, etc. On the other hand, 2 YEARS I've been at this. Primarily because I like to think thru what I'm doing, and because I've been waiting for friends to finish projects so I can get cheap welding done, but that's a long *** time.

I would buy a racecar already built. Pennies on the dollar really. But if you insist on building yourself, some tips I can offer..

- Get garage space. Before you start, get a decent steam cleaning done of the engine bay and rear suspension. Makes life much easier.

- Cage should be numero uno on your list. Everything else will flow around the cage on the interior, and it's much easier to push a car around without an engine or trans. So pull everything. Take pictures at various stages. Label wiring. Don't be afraid to dump things you odn't need, but review the rules first! If you're going to do the cage yourself, step one is to get rid of the undercoating and interior tar sound deadening. The interior stuff, dry ice works best. THe underside, Eastwood sells some chemicals to strip the goo. If you can get it acid dipped to get rid of all the paint, tar, and seal sealer, GO FOR IT. Way easier than doing it yourself. In any case, get rid of all of it, that stuff STINKS when welding. If you're going to pay someone to do the cage, they will definitely appreciate the extra prep work you did. Get your race seat, steering wheel, steering wheel disconnect, window net and harnesses before you go to the cage shop, get your welding done ONCE. Don't keep going back to the shop for minor **** later. Decide if you want NASCAR style door bars, if you do, strip the drivers side door down (window, motor, etc. Let them cut the metal out of the door to fit around the bars. If you're going to do a cell, get it before you go to the cage place and get them to mount it for you.

- Once the cage is done, then it's basic reassembly. You know a lot about driving the FC around the track already, but the rest of it isn't complicated.

ITS is going to be cheaper, and you'll be running with cars that should be similar in performance, given similar prep levels and drivers skill.

Total cost (sans car, truck and trailer) for my car is going to be around 8K. That's with a skilled welder friend doing my cage, and a $400 paintjob from Miracle

BTW, thanks for the comments about the paint, but I'll pass on your suggestion

LOL

PaulC

MaxRX7

I saw a N/A ITS running in a 24hour race. It was stripped !!

underhood: N/A, HUGE radiator, no p/s, a/c, a/p (emissions). Headers/Intake...

inside: rollcage, 5point harness racing seat
not sure about the suspension, but it was lowered quite a bit.

might429

Just few things to suspension (since it has a great one already) replaced the stock with KYB gas shocks, replaced the rubber bushings with slightly bigger ones, smoother turning but it sometimes "sqeeks" adjusted the front ones to be alittle looser than the rear. Did not install another sway bar made car TOO stiff. rerouted the air dam to cool engine and provide fresh air for filters

JOE@FC3S.ORG

The car has 5-lug and big brakes already. There was another car that is running the 4-bolt pattern with some Toyota wheels. Very interesting approach. I think the idea is that the smaller wheels give you a gearing advantage.

ItsRotary7

Joe, run the 5 lug and the bigger brakes. The problem is the 4 lug brakes are just not adequate enough for the weight of the car.

With the 15" rims you will need to change from the stock ratio to something like a 4.88 rear gear. We run different ratio dependent of the track we are at. I have three ratios 4.6, 4.88 and 5.12. We ran a 4.88 at willow this weekend unfortantely the bearings failed and cooked the rear.

Silkworm is correct the first thing you need to do is have a change put in. I recommend staying away from the bolt in type unless you plan on selling the car at a later time. You want the cage to be built as strong as possible but as light as possible as well.

I also recommend running Koni shocks, we have found that the KYB shock was to weak for the spring rates that are required.

Marcus

Silkworm

Marcus,

I've been debating on getting 4.88s or 5.12s, and I'm leaning towards 4.88s right now. I think 5.12s are going to be a bit much for Thunderhill's front straight, and I'm not ready to get into swapping diffs for different tracks What has been your experience?

I've heard from people who think that the 4 piston brakes are too much for the car.. I find that hard to believe, we'll see.

PaulC

buttlips

5.12s cost a lot more $ than the 4.88 and there is very little diffenece in gearing. If you're not going to be swapping from track to track, I'd do a 4.88. If you're going to use this car as a street car, too, you might want to consider a 4.44 as a compromise between street and track gearing.

I've never heard of a road racing car with too much brakes.

ItsRotary7

Silkworm, We have never run at thunderhill, probably will this year so i can't tell you what is best for that track but I believe you would probably want to run the 4.88. We run 4.88 when we race at laguna, but I think 5.12 would just overrev the motor.

Like buttlips said you can never have to much front brakes, to much rear yes. Just make sure you get as much air to the front brakes as you can. A track like Laguna can be hard on your brakes but a track like Willowsprings it probably worth extra time by having the smaller brakes.

marcus

maxpesce

Joe:
Mariah has a VERY competitive E-prod. car in their shop right now (4 wins in 4 races) and are building another If you get a chance come on up to SB and we can go check it out and pick Jim's & Dan's brains a bit
Just Bring my rod when you do!

defylogik

my friend is currently finishing up his rx7 race car he races up here at nelson and mid ohio. i dunno what class he races in tho.

this is his 3rd one.. lets hope he doesnt total this one too! wh00t!

scott

Mr. ImportGuy

if you really want to have fun go E-production in the scca or like gt-3 thoes classes will allow you to do the most to your car