JagdStealth

The very top of your quote even says Brass Synchros

Bronze isn' used to much and it's mostly found in Tremec or similar high horsepower units or transmission with dog gears (noisy).

I know about DSM transmissions...the Getrag in the VR4 is as bad or worse...only ours costs $3000 while you can pick up a nice DSM tranny for $600

guthrie_m

It sounds like you need to rebuild the transmission. You should go to mazda recycling on the web they can give you a rebuild trans for about $650. I go one and it was good. then when you get it put royal purple trans fulid. An you should be fine for a long time. I think they are on at mazdarecycling.com they deal in just Mazdas.

flubyux2

our DSM tranny cost $1200 all said and done, but it was a custom build up... by the man himself.

Well, i dont know if i said it was bronze in the RX7 tranny or not, but bronze is still used in OEM trannies, irregardless, so im not wrong

besides, i think brass is better used in the bathroom.

btw, DOg gears dont use synchros... Straight cut gears do use synchros, but are harder to shift than normal, OEM type gears that are helical cut.

Helical gears have slanty teeth and are easier to shift and quieter... thats why OEM uses them

Straight cut gears have Straight teeth that are parallel to the axis of the gear and have an even and flat loading surface of the teeth. they are more noisy and produces a whine, like in GT3 when you get the Race spec tranny.

Semi-helical cut gears are somehwere inbetween the 2.

Dog-boxes have teeth/lugs on the SIDE of teh gears, as well as teh circumference. they are NOT synchromesh trannies, and you have to be VERY precise when shifting t hen... otherwise, itll result in trying to engage 2 gears at once. i have friends who put dog-boxes in their Impreza's after turbo'ing their 2.5L, and it takes moer concentration to shift, including rev-matching and heel toe braking. but they are harder to strip the teeth on the gears ... the clunk when you shift, and you ahve to shift FAST, you cant lazily shift from gear to gear, cuz they will grind. eventually, the dogs (*teeth on the side of the gears) wear out, and you gota rebuild it anyhow, tahst why they are reserved for track cars and SERIOUS street cars.

i dont have a lot of experience w/ trannies, but this is just what ive learned from the owners/builders of said trannies.

MURX

So is MTL bad for our trans? Or just stick with plain MT90. What about the Redline Shock Proof? No offense, but alot people to have opposing views on whether a type of gear oil is very corrosive to our transmissions and I am just trying to straighten is all out.

Thanks

Bruce

try adjusting the freeplay in your pedal first did it this weekend. worked like a charm, no more grinding pedal freeplay is 1\8 of an inch, when i check i had like almost half an inch.

JagdStealth

They do make dog-geared trannies with synchros

MURX,

You can be safe and go with Synchromesh...there are no opposing views on that one. I just drained mine out and poured it in a few hours ago, shifts 100x better than before. Not sure what was in there before (bought the car 1000 miles ago), but it looked/felt/smelt like standard gear oil.

MURX

Thanks.

This is the stuff right? http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/pro...ynchromesh.asp

Davidov

iTrader: (2)

Thats for Automatic Trannies.
The kind I got was Pennzoil Synchromesh (same as GM Synchromesh, shitty GM trannies!), and I think its for MTs only.
I picked mine up at O'Reilley's for like $2-$3? a quart.

Haven't put it in yet, but I will adjust the clutch too. Thanks for the idea Bruce.

mwpayne

I'll say it agian..GM SYNCROMESH!!
Get it at ANY GM dealer, fill your tranny with it, bet your problems are solved (at least for now).

flubyux2

Jag, youre right, there are half Dog-boxes. guys in my Subaru club run them too... i forgot about them

anyhow, try adjusting the free-play and clutch engagement point of the pedal. dont adjust it so far that the Throw-out fork bottoms out on the bellhousing though. if you make it do that, the slave will try to make the clutch fork pivot on the Bellhousing and lift up off the pivot ball... bad bad bad! it will take 2 people to do this, but have your tool bit... er, assistant press the pedal all the way to the floor and if you still have clearance between the back of the release fork and the bell housing.

doing this, you can change where your clutch grabs in relation to the pedal stroke. Right now, mine grabs right at the top... which is supposed to be good for power shifting... and it is. except, my 2nd gear is a little grindy... but, its got super old gear oil... it needs some new Lube... but hey, the shifter bushings are new!

JagdStealth

Yep. Penzoil Synchromesh...that's the over the counter version of GM Synchromesh...both are identical, but one costs $3 and the other costs $10!