250 wheek hp
#53
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Originally posted by ForsakenRX7
Why do people keep saying pay 700 for a greddy or 950 for WTF brandXXX intercooler. An NPR can be had for cheap and does an awesome job.
Why do people keep saying pay 700 for a greddy or 950 for WTF brandXXX intercooler. An NPR can be had for cheap and does an awesome job.
If I remember right, the Isuzu NPR is a single row IC core?
"Best" # of cores is a 2-row. The NPR IC is really thin.
The GReddy IC's come with 60mm? 70mm aluminum IC pipes.
What does the NPR IC come with? NOTHING.
The GReddy IC comes with optimized endtanks for smoother intake flow.
The NPR IC has compromised endtank ends that have very abrupt bends - not the best for airflow.
The GReddy kit is complete with all hoses, pipes, clamps, fittings, TB adapter for a "drop-in" install.
The NPR IC DOES NOT DROP IN.
The GReddy IC kit is made for the 13BT engine.
The NPR IC IS NOT.
I don't call that an "awesome job".
-Ted
#59
how much power?
don't burn me but there isn't a dyno in my town so i was wondering how much hp you guys think i'll have with this setup. 550cc primaries, 720cc secondaries, 2.5 inch dp, 2.5 inch bonez race pipe, apex'i gt catcack, s5 turbo, walbro 255 fuel pump, intake, tb mod, and finally 10 psi of boost and a 3 inch tid.
#62
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Youre probably gonna need something to control those bigger injectors at the least an s-afc also you are going to NEED to port the wastegate with all those mods.
#63
I'm a boost creep...
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You don't need bigger secondaries to run 10psi on the stock turbo. With the upgraded pump you'll probably still be running a bit on the rich side. Fitting an S-AFC or similar now would allow you to make a bit more power by leaning out any rich parts of the fuel curve, and give you the necessary control if you upgraded the turbo later and needed larger injectors. With your current mods, the next thing you should upgrade is the intercooler.
#64
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more power will need more fuel. i am at the power level you are wanting to get to. Im running 11psi on a stage 2 hybrid.. and im using all but about 2% of the 680cc secondaries up top for a ~11.5:1 AFR. as soon as i add bigger primarys, a FMIC and a retec7 ecu chip im going to get tuned again but at about 14psi and should see 285-300rwhp.
Then comes the NOS setup. My end goal is 325rwhp with 12-13psi and a 50 shot.
Every car is different. My 680s should be good for more power but i think i need to rewire my fuel pump.
1. so 720s and a safc... same step.
2. stage 2 hybrid.
3. BOV... the stock one will make for compressor surge.
4. better IC or get used to heatsoak. (See pic /\/\)
5. a ecu chip or retard your timing a few degrees at the cas 1deg per psi over 9.
then you can make 250, and make more later when you add more fuel problem.
Then comes the NOS setup. My end goal is 325rwhp with 12-13psi and a 50 shot.
Every car is different. My 680s should be good for more power but i think i need to rewire my fuel pump.
1. so 720s and a safc... same step.
2. stage 2 hybrid.
3. BOV... the stock one will make for compressor surge.
4. better IC or get used to heatsoak. (See pic /\/\)
5. a ecu chip or retard your timing a few degrees at the cas 1deg per psi over 9.
then you can make 250, and make more later when you add more fuel problem.
Last edited by Jaared; 05-24-04 at 08:25 PM.
#65
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all i'm sure of, if you have 3" turbo back exhaust, 3" TID, and stock "S4" turbo, then boost will creep to 20psi like mine did. damn, it felt fast. G-tech measured 235 at the wheels, but that thing is so inaccurate most of the time.
#67
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nah, not really, ran fine for a while. yes, the motor did end up losing compression, but that wasn't my fault. Atkins never beveled the exhaust ports and it ate away at the apex seals. Failed to continue to run at an embarasing 8k miles. No broken apex seals, but they were worn funny, which lead to a wierd wear pattern on the housings as well.
#68
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20psi on the stock turbo... on the stock 1bar boost sensor, and no extra fuel. sound like it wouldnt have lasted long anyway. I bet it was fn while it lasted tho.
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