After having a Clutch & Drive Shaft installed my
idle now goes to 2100 RPM when I turn the A/C on.
The mechanic claims he only used the idle screw on the
top of the throttle body to idle down to 500 rpm. I had
it idled at 750 rpm according to the FSM. I took it back to
him just to see what screws he'd turn. 1st thing he did
was screw up the TPS adjustment by turning it in and
out, hoping this was the cure. I knew then he didn't have a clue! I took it home and set the TPS with the checker lamps but don't no why I have this problem.

My AWS is working so I assume the Neutral switch is hooked up, wich is part of the A/C cut system. It has to
be something they unhooked, or hooked up wrong.
If anyone has any Idea's I could use them, thank's.

 

Warm the car up. Set the timing. Install the initial set coupler. Set the idle speed to 750. Pull the initial set coupler. The idle should be still approx 750. Turn the a/c on. Does it just jump to 2100 rpm????? If it does, I'd suspect the bac is acting irregular and you might want to take it off and clean it with some fuel injector cleaner/ mild degreaser/whatever and exercise it while doing so. Then reinstall and try again.

At the very least, if you set the timing and set the idle speed you'll have a base to start your troubleshooting from.

 

what HAILERS says.

It is very important to set the idle speed correctly (as per FSM) at 750 rpm.

If it does not want to idle nicely at 750 rpm (without AC), there is something else wrong, e.g, if idle is too high and cannot be brought down, most likely there is a vacuum leak or timing too advanced or plates too open at rest etc.

Hugues -

 

I assume this is grounding out the ECU by jumpimg the
green 1 pin test connector to ground.

When I get off work I'll try this and see what happens.
I did all this before Master Mechanic got under the hood.
But I'll just start over from the beging. My A/C cut-out
system does not perform to FSM test, but has been that
way and didn't effect the Idle. A/C cut-out system operates
after throttle is open to about 2/3 or more, from what I
understand.

Thank's ,
Brad89RX7

 

Maybe put a VOM on the long range TPS & see if it sweeps smoothly from 1K to 5K ohms.
My NA had a rough spot in the sweep that faked out the ECU.
CRC QD contact cleaner fixed it.
I also beefed up the firewall to bell housing ground.