Well, I am a firm believer that I will hit the 200 whp with my 6 port. One week in, 2 more to go.

No pics yet, so I didn't put it in the build section.

Working with s5 6 port
Semi P. custom work being done to the intake mani as well.
Large street
No emissions
WILL still have power steering AND a/c
Adaptronics ECU
7-1k cc injectors
TII Fuel pump (Not sure if should go Walbro since I hear they run hot)
And of course, custom exhaust with the RB headers & pre silencer

I am as hopeful and determined. I was so excited to have purchased a vert. That same week, no coolant with annoying buzzer, but no leaks? Replaced thermostat, boughtt a 3 inch radiator and refilled, flan clutch was good. Same result, except in just 2 days. Well, water seal was busted and was progressively getting worse.
Bravo to the kid who was able to sell it before it being too noticeable.

 

I would post this over in the N/A performance section.

Naturally Aspirated Performance Forum - RX7Club.com

Might get more feedback over there. I don't think you need 1000cc injectors little on 7 of them. 4x550cc should be more than enough. I think people have hit over 200whp using the stock 460's with no fuel problems. Though I don't think it was on stock manifolds(200 is pretty much tops), but you said semi-PP so that may cover the intake side.

I think you can also use a 3rd gen fuel pump and it is a drop in as well.

May want to study on the exhaust as the RB header pre-silencer combo may not make the best power. It is good but won't make as much power as a setup where your primary pipe lengths of the header are tuned to what the engine wants for you specific porting setup. May want to look at their road race header and pre-silencer or some other means of muffling to have a long primary setup which should net you more power.

Good luck with the build.

 

Definitely doable with the ports themselves, its the manifold that seems to be the problem. We made a pretty easy 250HP 6 port with IDAs for a customer. That was on an engine dyno, probably close to 205-210 wheel horsepower.

 

We have made 199whp on a Mustang dyno. S5 N/A, with stock intake manifold, no porting, 4 x 550cc, Apexi PFC.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/dyno_ch...o_10-01-10.jpg

 

I got 210 with a fresh engine and ported exhaust on a 1990 NA. Engine dyno of course, probably 165 or 170 at the wheels considering old electronics and such. I can say it is WAY more peppy than when I bought the car that had a 160k mile factory engine (yes, it was the original engine with asbestos gaskets and all).

I have since replaced the TPS, water thermo, air intake temp sensors. It seems even better now. It still runs pig *** rich at idle and open loop, but it isnt "slow" as a lot of vert owners like to say.

My wifes 2010 mazda 3 is sluggish in comparison.

 

I remember seeing this in conversation in a thread floating around here. You where my deciding factor actually.

No porting, stock manifold, 550 injectors and a fuel manage is enough for me to say that it is in the tune.

 

I made 186whp on my s5 on stock ports, intakes, injectors, pump gas with just a really great tune up and ems. I estimated we coulda squeezed a bit more out however, after a 3/4 tank it would get fuel starvation which was the na injectors maxing out. The power curve on it was just spectacular IMO. Was worth every minute I tell you.

I recommend getting true dual headers as it could just be me, but we built identical engines (one was a street engine, other was a race) and both had similar power bands except for the race engine which had a beefer suspension, injectors and fuel system which made the response more quicker and deff no fuel starvation for higher rpms

 

I don't know about you guys,but I would Love to see the Flames when then this car Backfires with 7 Thousand CC's of fuel running it!

 

It is way too much fuel, I run 6 x 1000cc for my secondaries on my gt42rs 20B

I also agree with the true dual header, I have found that the RB collected header with silencer is a huge power drop.

 

Impressive. What did you have setup for timing at peak torque?

 

Being an NA guy for now, I definitely want to know how this comes along.

Is there any preferred computer people like to use for an NA application as opposed to turbo, or can you go back and forth? I don't understand EMS as much as I would like, but do they go back and forth?

That being said, is most of the tuning involved with fuel?

We should move this to NA Performance for sure.

 

Very interesting! Subscribed. Let us know how it goes.

All I want is 180 rwhp in my S4 N/A!

 

are you keeping the 5th and 6th port functional or are you taking the air actuators out?

im currently in the process of building my own intake manifold and wanna hit those numbers to but im taking the actuators out completely and build something to keep the ports 3/4 way open all the time.

 

Honestly you should try to retain the functional 5th and 6th ports. It just isn't worth sacrificing the bottom end for no gain.

 

how much low end do you lose because iv heard that its not really noticeable?

 

It probably wouldn't be as noticeable if I had standalone fuel management, but with stock it is pretty bad. The AFR is definitely not right.

 

alright thanks. I have to get an RTEK yet so I will be able to tune it a bit

 

I think to hit those numbers they will need to open all the way. Banzai-Racing's 199whp dyno was an ITS racecar. I'm pretty sure they remove the sleeves since they live above where they open on the race track. He could verify that as I could be mistaken. Pee-jay has played around with having them partially closed I think. Helped the midrange hurt the topend. Worked for his application at the time.

My memory must be bad but I can't remember my car having any kind of bottom end that was worth a crap before I disabled them. I'd actaully like to drive a car with functional ones so I can feel this awesome bottom end everybody speaks of.

I don't know how much you lose but I've never missed them. Though I do think that the 4.3 rear end may have helped with that. I already had the header pre-silencer combo when I did it though so on a stock car it may be pretty bad. I think I am probably hurt more by having the VDI valve disabled and set for high rpm, as far as low end goes. I can really feel it come alive above 5k which is around the switch over point of the VDI. Though I think some of it may be my porting because it def feels stronger than I remeber it feeling on the stock port. If I make anything functional again it will be that. I also want to eventually go to some sort of long primary system on the exhaust. I too need to get a way to tune fuel. My vote is if you are ditching the actuators then just take the sleeves & rods out if you have the LIM off for some other reason.

Back to your question though. To find out if you will be ok without them functioning( if they curently are) just go for a drive. Then remove the actuators and zip ty them open and go for another. Then decide if you can live with the difference. Just remember if you ditch the air pump and ACV you lose the VDI and have to wire it open for high rpm use as well. But it can be tested in the same manner.

I too would like to hit or break 200whp.

 

Right on that helps alot. Thanks.

 

I don't think it matters. I think the dertemining factor is how much money you have to spend and if there is someone in your area with experience with a certain brand. If the computer can handle the tuning needs of a turbo car then a n/a application should be no problem for it. I used to want a powerFC just for the plug and play aspect plus Banzai at one time had a map for it that could probably get me started, but now am considering maybe an Adaptronic if the funds ever materialize. No one in my area knows rotaries or stand alones either so I will be on my own. I'll just learn to tune on whatever I get.

 

Alright guys! so today I woke up happy because its pay day, and I received a bonus check. Then it hurt so bad when I did this

We have received the following transfer request on March 14, 2014:

*********************************************
Amount: $2,405.00
To: My love hate relationship
Fee: 25.00
Service: Same Day
*********************************************

After disassemble of the motor I needed to replace:
Front Iron, E Shaft and well, new rotor housings. This Eshaft was warped, housings... eh usable but obtained better ones for a decent price, and of course the front iron has some rust rotting in the sealing area.

Housings are off for the semi peripheral porting, I am also getting a nice street port.
Using the stock manifold and it is on its way to be ported as well for the modifications.

Now I need to obtain some Fuel injectors. Any one have any recommendations?
I was thinking oc RC 700-800 high (what ever that word is/Impedient)

lastly will have the engine management (adaptronics) and a tune with the numbers I am hoping to exceed.

 

turbo 550's would be overkill, 700-800's would be way overkill(what i use for ~350whp cars).

i'm not sure why you keep asking the same questions over again. in fact you probably wouldn't even reach the cap point on the stock 440's..

if you're building it with boost in mind then yes, those injector sizes might be appropriate down the road.

 

We just put down 253Bhp (Read: at the crank, not the wheels) on a very large streetport with a 53mm Berg and 23 degrees of advance at peak torque. I think theres a few more horses in there with a bit more timing up top as well as leaning out the mixture a few tenths.

-David Guy

 

I don't mean to ask the same questions. You are the first I think who has told me that I will be ok running this set up with 440's.

I was also concerned about the fuel pump, but will probably go tII.

I hope you are correct because I don't want to buy new fuel injectors. I buying an afr gauge to see with the tunning.

 

Should beable to run stock injectors with a wideband lean it out a bit factory tune is rich with a large street port and hit 200ish by its self anything larger in cc massive over kill.