I had a '71 240z, an engine mixed/matched to 3 litres, with a later model 5-speed.
Toyota calipers -yes Aaron, they were aluminum- and the Subie diff, both bolt on mods, made upgrades pretty simple and cheap.
I also ran big carbs from a Jaguar ( another bolt on).

The Z was nice in that much stayed the same for the run of the model.
You could drop a 280 engine into a 240 with absolutely no changes to the cradle/mounts and little things like the oil filter were consistent and cheap.

 

i am happy to learn of this!

 

Thanks again for all the replies, so I read the rules again and BP is phased out the only reason I was thinking BP was because I am totally gutting the car and removing the convertible top SSM requires the interior intact, though if the convertible top can be removed in a lower class I will run in that and keep the interior.

As far as the caliper goes our caliper is cast iron and has unnecessary e-brake hardware (for racing), also the c shape deforms under load which is why the pads wear more on the top.
The Subaru caliper is aluminum, doesn't have unnecessary hardware and is constructed to have minimal deformation.

The stock caliper has about 100 sq mm surface area (I used a tape measurer to get the diameter)
the Subaru caliper has roughly 250 sq mm surface area (the only spec I could find was for 2008-2010 rear calipers which are slightly bigger 40mm so I estimated 35 mm pistons)

So these calipers will provide more braking potential, more even wear, and weigh less.
With a brake bias controller and 1 1/16" master cylinder there will only be increased brake feel and control.

 

If you are experiencing fade, you should upsize the rotors instead of the calipers.

I'm running 350z rotors with OE calipers on my car, no fade, even after back to back 30 minute sessions on the track.

 

I am not experiencing any braking problems; this is mainly to satisfy my curiosity, provide a slight performance gain, and for aesthetics.

On a side note I read the rules further and noticed that only in prepared and modified are their no requirements for an e-brake, so I will be gutting the car gutting the doors and welding in a roll bar with nascar like bars in the door area for any possible side intrusion

 

interesting topic..if it were me id just go all out if it was planned to be entered into some serious racing sanctions

Wilwood 2 piston rear mated with aftermarket hydrolic e-brake,

 

If braking is this important to you, and your willing to spend money, stop trying to re-invent the wheel and just buy aftermarket

http://www.jcwhitney.com/rotora-perf...=d10887y1988j1

though this is only front calipers and rotors, the braking force gains would overshadow the minor gains of a 2 piston rear setup.

And when it comes to strait line braking you cant beat it, I know.. my gf has them on her 240, 6 piston calipers, 355mm rotors. And the rears are R33 2 piston calipers and project MU pads

you can kind of see the rotor and caliper



heres to stopping

 

darn tree.

 

Until the plastic MELTS!

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-hard-can-881352/