Well I have not have had a good week, went to the Track on friday to test out my new 720s, MBC, APEXi Fuel controller, walbro ect.....well before the 720s and the walbro I had ran a 13.8 on crappy blad hard tires, the first run I ran a 14.7!!!! started leaning it out above 4k and got it down to 14.1 with a 2.19 60ft, then I leaned it out a tiny bit more and launched like crazy, a .560 R/t (.500 is the best) and a 2.0 60ft I was like 1/2 car length AHEAD of this 98-00 trans-am and as I shifted into 3rd all my power was gone! I heard no detenation, but the rpms seemed to be creaping very slow, my E/T was a 14.1 at 92MPH!!!!! when I pulled up to get my Time slip my idle had gone to crap like 600-650, I just got down doing the compression test and the rear is fine but the front and 2 low bounces one high, as the hayes manual says it should be and apex seal, well I took my Turbo and Manifold off to see if I could see/feel it.....don't see or feel and of the apex seals cracked or missed....wtf.

On another note, when I was putting the 720s in and removing the old gasket a piece of about 3/4" fell in the front intake runner...I believe this to be my suspect but where could it be....on the rotor or housing? I dumped a bunch of MMO in to see if it would help.....and suggests

 

2 low 1 high means something's breaking the seal between an apex seal. Could be a weak spring, could be a chip in the seal... who knows...

 

did you read the post? all the apex seals are intact...

 

you don't know the condition of the SPRINGS do you?? that's really hard to tell without removing the apex seals. You also only have a SMALL view of the seal, there could be a chip outside of the view of the spark-plug.

 

I am veiwing them from the exhaust manifold....I can't see them through the spark pulg hole, I took off both intake manis and the side sides feel fine too, if a spring was bad would there be a gap between the rotor housing and the apex seal?

 

It wouldn't seat as well, but there wouldn't nessasarily be a gap.

 

Sounds like that bit of gasket damaged a seal or something. Ugh, why didnt you remove that when you dropped in it?

 

couldn't get to it....hoped it woulda blown through...the seals look and feel smooth as can be...I'm thinking that piece of gasket is stuck to the housing causing the apex seal not to hold compression....I thinking some MMO would help or mabe the dreaded AFT because it is so corosive...

 

a seal can crack lengthwise, you know, down the middle from one side of the rotor to the other.
if that happened then the edge of the seal could still look/feel smooth but have a compression prob.

just a thought.

 

.400 is a perfect reaction time not .500!

 

umm that is for pro events....... .500 is for brakets, or regular.....other poeple know this too

 

Eliminate all the guessing and speculation and do a FR%^@%^%^ compression test. The first rule of rotary troubleshooting: COMPRESSION TEST. NO go out to the garage and DO IT. NO MORE USELESS POST WITHOUT PROPER INPUT!!!!!

 

umm okay I did a compression test B4 I posted....sheez chill dude......rear rotor was 95-95-95 psi, front was 35-35-95......or low low high.......

 

Dont ever run a motor knowing something is in the combustion chamber that shouldnt be there either - its not worth it, as it seems you might be finding out the unfortunate hard way. Always get a heavy duty shop vac and suck it out!

 

could be a broken or stuck corner seal.
you cant see them unless you pull it apart.
matt

 

apex seal, looking thru the exhuast ports wouldn't make a diff, you wouldn't see it. normally you will break them near the ends which you cant see because the exhuast ports aren't wide enough

 

well thanks for ya'lls input.... I guess if anything this is a learning expericence for me....

BTW anyone know where I can get a cheap S4 TII short block...I'm thinking I may just get a N/A motor from the junkyard and toss it in untill I rebuild the TII motor....how hard would it be to make the N/A block to turbo with all my turbo parts.....

 

Basically bolting everything onto the new one.

 

thats all? it all fits?

 

No, the turbo intake manifold will not bolt up to a N/A block. What you *might* want to consider is buying a NA complete engine along with ECU and harness and running that in your TII body until you can rebuild your engine. I know hIGGI did this and since N/A cars can be purchased for $500 in good, running condition, there's no reason why this can't be a possible solution to your problem.

 

Yes, it will. All you need to do is elongate the bolt holes very slightly. But it's not something I would do.

 

"Bolt up" eh?

 

As I recall, it bolts up directly without modifying the bolt holes. But elongating the holes allows the ports to line up a little better.

 

I suppose you do learn something new every day. I've heard otherwise in regards to this, but I know your car is rolling proof of this modification.

 

yeah I thats what I wanted to do....but I if I buy an N/A and I have all my turbo parts wouldn't it just make it that much easier ....I know a guy with a 1st gen that has an N/A S4 block with custom intake and exhaust manifolds, 6 680cc injectors, custom water to air intercooler, T60-1/T3 turbo, SDS (or STS) Standalone ECU....he's in the mid 12s in his GSL-SE but he keeps breaking the axels....