1991 RX7 Turbo II Swap - Completed!
12-18-10, 09:12 AM
#1
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1991 RX7 Turbo II Swap - Completed!
There is kind of a sad story on why I ended up doing this swap. I took my car into an Auto Upholstery Shop to get my driver seat fixed (It had a 6" tear). It was the last thing to be fixed on my RX7. The rest of the car is mint! When I returned to pick my car up, long story short, the Upholstery Shop had blown my engine during a Joy Ride and refused to do anything about it (Yes the engine made good compression before I dropped it off and did not smoke).
I will admit, I took my car to a small shop that has a mechanic that loves Rotary Powered Cars to do this swap. Labor was $1020.55 (Including NYS 8% Tax) to do the complete swap & I bought the parts.
Parts I had to buy...
JDM Turbo II Engine w/ Transmission, intercooler, ecu, turbo, etc...
Turbo II Drive Shaft
Turbo II Throttle Cable
Turbo Inlet Duct
N370 AFM/MAF
TOP SPEED PRO-1 3" Complete Exhaust (Stainless Steel)
Turbo II Carbon Fiber Hood
Radiator
N370 ECU (Just incase the N374 did not work)
Issues
The only main issue we ran into was when the car was running, it would "bounce" between 750rpm to 1,500rpm. After installing the correct AFM/MAF, the issue was still there. Then over the weekend I got a call saying the shop fixed it and that they had to reset the TPS.
Also the N374 ECU worked just fine with the American Wire Harness.
Final Product
It took 3 months to complete the job. Mostly because the engine was delayed in shipping and then held up in customs. Then ordering parts one by one as we realized we needed them.
Overall the car runs great! Good compression, no smoke, and pulls insanely hard! The JDM Engine & Transmission I ordered came with a short throw shifter and a racing clutch (not fun to drive slow). My '91 RX7 NA was fairly docile, now I have a Turbo Beast! Sadly I had to put it away for the winter
What I plan to do in the spring is paint the hood, Turbo II Rear End, Suspension, & Brakes. I just ran out of time & money for this year to complete it all.
Out the door it was a little over $4000 to do the complete swap.
Pictures
I will admit, I took my car to a small shop that has a mechanic that loves Rotary Powered Cars to do this swap. Labor was $1020.55 (Including NYS 8% Tax) to do the complete swap & I bought the parts.
Parts I had to buy...
JDM Turbo II Engine w/ Transmission, intercooler, ecu, turbo, etc...
Turbo II Drive Shaft
Turbo II Throttle Cable
Turbo Inlet Duct
N370 AFM/MAF
TOP SPEED PRO-1 3" Complete Exhaust (Stainless Steel)
Turbo II Carbon Fiber Hood
Radiator
N370 ECU (Just incase the N374 did not work)
Issues
The only main issue we ran into was when the car was running, it would "bounce" between 750rpm to 1,500rpm. After installing the correct AFM/MAF, the issue was still there. Then over the weekend I got a call saying the shop fixed it and that they had to reset the TPS.
Also the N374 ECU worked just fine with the American Wire Harness.
Final Product
It took 3 months to complete the job. Mostly because the engine was delayed in shipping and then held up in customs. Then ordering parts one by one as we realized we needed them.
Overall the car runs great! Good compression, no smoke, and pulls insanely hard! The JDM Engine & Transmission I ordered came with a short throw shifter and a racing clutch (not fun to drive slow). My '91 RX7 NA was fairly docile, now I have a Turbo Beast! Sadly I had to put it away for the winter
What I plan to do in the spring is paint the hood, Turbo II Rear End, Suspension, & Brakes. I just ran out of time & money for this year to complete it all.
Out the door it was a little over $4000 to do the complete swap.
Pictures
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12-19-10, 08:33 AM
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As for the "A piece of junkyard intake duct attached to a black dress sock?", that was temporary to connect the AFM/MAF to the Engine. The real part came in 2 weeks later and the stock airbox was reinstalled. Once I pull the car out of storage (its an hour away at a friends barn), I will take more pictures.
I sued The Upholstery Shop that killed my car for $3,000. I had 2 witnesses and stacks of evidences. The judge rules in favor of the shop saying that I could not prove that the "Joy Ride" actually caused the engine to fail. Needless to say I was pissed and all I can do lately is just bad mouth their buisness locally.
CF Hood = Cheap, plus I am not sure if I like the black on red look yet...
I sued The Upholstery Shop that killed my car for $3,000. I had 2 witnesses and stacks of evidences. The judge rules in favor of the shop saying that I could not prove that the "Joy Ride" actually caused the engine to fail. Needless to say I was pissed and all I can do lately is just bad mouth their buisness locally.
CF Hood = Cheap, plus I am not sure if I like the black on red look yet...
12-19-10, 05:57 PM
#12
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Damn that sucks they got away wit blowing your motor. I wouldve been pissed as hell if that happend to me.
Is your rear of the exhaust really that low or is it just not on the rubber donuts?
Is your rear of the exhaust really that low or is it just not on the rubber donuts?
04-23-11, 08:14 PM
#15
because the epoxy resins used in Carbon Fiber can delaminate when exposed to UV rays, or he is just stealth like a cat.
also doin' the same build and coming to the same head, do I take the time to find a stock TII hood or just get the slick CF version... I think you just made up my mind
also doin' the same build and coming to the same head, do I take the time to find a stock TII hood or just get the slick CF version... I think you just made up my mind
04-10-13, 08:44 PM
#18
If you have N/A transmission and T2 rear end then no, you'll need to either buy a T2 transmission which aren't that expensive or buy or get a driveshaft made that goes from N/A trans to T2 rear. But if you have a T2 trans and T2 rear you still need T2 driveshaft.
04-11-13, 01:35 AM
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Suggestion:
When you paint the hood, have the paint shop "tint"the hood rather than regular paint by mixing red into the clear. That way the car will blend out all one color, but the carbon fiber can still be seen when the sun hits it just right. You also might want to consider some flush mount hood pins to stabilize it.
When you paint the hood, have the paint shop "tint"the hood rather than regular paint by mixing red into the clear. That way the car will blend out all one color, but the carbon fiber can still be seen when the sun hits it just right. You also might want to consider some flush mount hood pins to stabilize it.
04-11-13, 03:14 AM
#20
Rotary nut for 15 years.
because the epoxy resins used in Carbon Fiber can delaminate when exposed to UV rays, or he is just stealth like a cat.
also doin' the same build and coming to the same head, do I take the time to find a stock TII hood or just get the slick CF version... I think you just made up my mind
also doin' the same build and coming to the same head, do I take the time to find a stock TII hood or just get the slick CF version... I think you just made up my mind
Oh and to the quote above. If I do go for the hood I have a 100% damage free TII hood. Just needs to be painted.
04-11-13, 11:43 AM
#24
IMO having a naked carbon hood looks rice. You need a specific looking car to make it look good, like a car that is basically a streetable track car. The carbon fiber hood is incredibly light and they have a lot of different vented carbon fiber hoods out there so I think people buy them more for what they do for heat in the engine bay than actually the fact that it's carbon fiber.
04-11-13, 12:20 PM
#25
Senior Member
When you think about it, it's a low pressure area. It's probably helping in scavanging heat from the engine bay @ speeds
You want a functional IC? A big front mount is the answer. You'll love it!