1991 N/A going carb
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707
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1991 N/A going carb
can i use the stock ignition setup when removing all the FI system? i would like to keep the cas and not have to put on a 12a dizzy ive searched and came up with a few different storys =/
s5 heres my list.
low pressure high volume pump.
FI plug kit.
oil inj plugs.
block off plate for OMP
600 CFM hollet with manifold from RB
s5 heres my list.
low pressure high volume pump.
FI plug kit.
oil inj plugs.
block off plate for OMP
600 CFM hollet with manifold from RB
#2
The Doctor
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Theirs a couple different ways you can go about doing it. Making a carb setup is pretty easy if you know what your doing. You do need to switch to the first gen ignition system, but the 13b one off a gsl-se. I could be wrong, but I don't think the 12a dizzy will work. Theirs a different amount of teeth. Basically, heres a list of what you need to make the car from efi to carb.
1. Intake manifold (theirs other brands besides RB to pick from, I'm currently running a Jaytech)
2. 1st gen ingnition (13b dizzy, coils, & wires)
2.5 low pressure pump. A stock 1st gen pump will work great. If you can get your hands on one of these, you won't need to run a regulator
3. omp blockoff
4. carb (a stock holley will work but theirs tricks that need to be done to it to make it run 100% properly on a rotary) If you get a holley, get one of the 1850 series.
5. Block off holes for primary injectors. These will cause huge vac leaks if you dont. Ask me how I know.
6. Make a kickstand for the throttle cable. Basically go to the junkyard and get the bar piece that is for what makes the alt tight. bend the tip, bam you have a throttle cable holder.
A lot of it isn't plug and play so your probably going to have to do something custom for the wiring to the coils. Here's a pic of my setup, maybe it can help you a little bit. Sorry, its a cell pic. It's not the nicest, but I've always been a function over form kind of person.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/Xenium911/07-09-09_1957.jpg"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/Xenium911/07-09-09_1957.jpg" width="480" height="640"><a>
1. Intake manifold (theirs other brands besides RB to pick from, I'm currently running a Jaytech)
2. 1st gen ingnition (13b dizzy, coils, & wires)
2.5 low pressure pump. A stock 1st gen pump will work great. If you can get your hands on one of these, you won't need to run a regulator
3. omp blockoff
4. carb (a stock holley will work but theirs tricks that need to be done to it to make it run 100% properly on a rotary) If you get a holley, get one of the 1850 series.
5. Block off holes for primary injectors. These will cause huge vac leaks if you dont. Ask me how I know.
6. Make a kickstand for the throttle cable. Basically go to the junkyard and get the bar piece that is for what makes the alt tight. bend the tip, bam you have a throttle cable holder.
A lot of it isn't plug and play so your probably going to have to do something custom for the wiring to the coils. Here's a pic of my setup, maybe it can help you a little bit. Sorry, its a cell pic. It's not the nicest, but I've always been a function over form kind of person.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/Xenium911/07-09-09_1957.jpg"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/Xenium911/07-09-09_1957.jpg" width="480" height="640"><a>
#4
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i think the s5 ecu would **** a brick.
for the cost (unless you have these parts already) you could get a used haltech and have a sick n/a setup.
if you're doing this due to the s5 acting up. simplest fix is emissions delete and s4 manifolds.
for the cost (unless you have these parts already) you could get a used haltech and have a sick n/a setup.
if you're doing this due to the s5 acting up. simplest fix is emissions delete and s4 manifolds.
#6
rotorhead
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if you kept the s5 ECU you would need to keep the AFM, since ignition timing under normal driving is usually determined by rpm and load (which is determined by the AFM). Which means a big hassle for a carb setup.
The amount of stuff you would need to keep distributorless ignition would essentially have you running fuel injection with almost everything but the injectors.
The amount of stuff you would need to keep distributorless ignition would essentially have you running fuel injection with almost everything but the injectors.
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707
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rx7man13b "I run a carb and left the CAS. It runs great and idles smooth. From what i read the ECU needs a TPS signal and MAF to adjust timing but my car has neither. "
ok if this is true wouldnt i be able to get a rtek chip that deletes the OMP errors?
ok if this is true wouldnt i be able to get a rtek chip that deletes the OMP errors?
#9
NASA geek
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I ran a Dellort'o side draft on a ported 6 port years ago using the stock ignition. The car was FAST! I had done a LOT of mods to the engine. I had to fasion a TPS mount and use the stock TPS. I never did work all the bugs out of the ignition and/or the carb. Light load had bucking to it no matter what I did with jetting/mixture so i assume it was ignition perhaps. I had functioning aux ports. I got tired of dicking with carbs and went to turbo/after market fuel injection.
I'd suggest going 13b dizzy route if your hell bent on carbs or keep it fuel injected. BTW, after you buy a carb and manifolds and new fuel system components (fuel pump, low pres reg, etc etc) you could have just bought a Mega Squirt a couple times over (and they make plug and play now) or even a nice used Haltech or Wolf.
~Mike........
I'd suggest going 13b dizzy route if your hell bent on carbs or keep it fuel injected. BTW, after you buy a carb and manifolds and new fuel system components (fuel pump, low pres reg, etc etc) you could have just bought a Mega Squirt a couple times over (and they make plug and play now) or even a nice used Haltech or Wolf.
~Mike........
#10
The Doctor
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I ran a Dellort'o side draft on a ported 6 port years ago using the stock ignition. The car was FAST! I had done a LOT of mods to the engine. I had to fasion a TPS mount and use the stock TPS. I never did work all the bugs out of the ignition and/or the carb. Light load had bucking to it no matter what I did with jetting/mixture so i assume it was ignition perhaps. I had functioning aux ports. I got tired of dicking with carbs and went to turbo/after market fuel injection.
I'd suggest going 13b dizzy route if your hell bent on carbs or keep it fuel injected. BTW, after you buy a carb and manifolds and new fuel system components (fuel pump, low pres reg, etc etc) you could have just bought a Mega Squirt a couple times over (and they make plug and play now) or even a nice used Haltech or Wolf.
~Mike........
I'd suggest going 13b dizzy route if your hell bent on carbs or keep it fuel injected. BTW, after you buy a carb and manifolds and new fuel system components (fuel pump, low pres reg, etc etc) you could have just bought a Mega Squirt a couple times over (and they make plug and play now) or even a nice used Haltech or Wolf.
~Mike........
And the 13b dizzy really isnt a bad ignition system at all. And you don't need to change the front cover. Just pull out the CAS, drop in the dizzy. Dont change the front cover just for the omp. If you do, go s4 so you CAN have a OMP.
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I just finished swapping from EFI to carbs on a 1987 S4 due to clearance issues I had install this type of motor in a 1959 Austin Healy. Used a twin coils and dizzy with ignitors. I plugged the injectors and made block-off covers for OMP and ERG. Haven't fired her up yet and I'm sure there will be a few bugs to work out. Here's a few picture of the beast. Good Luck.
Last edited by Bugeye RX; 10-26-09 at 09:21 PM.
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