1991 mazda rx7 hard starting
07-21-08, 06:21 PM
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1991 mazda rx7 hard starting
I have a 1991 mazda rx7 and Iam having a hard time starting it hot or cold, I did do the deflooding procedure and it worked Iwas able to get it started but now the
car seems like it's doing again it starts sometimes and not other times. When I do get it running I have to really crank it with a powerful battery or it will never start and when I get it started it seems to me it's running on 3 cylinders but Iam not familar with the rotary motor. Would some be kind enough to give me some guidance on what to do at this point. I don't know if it's a clogged injector,spark, computer or what ? thank's John
car seems like it's doing again it starts sometimes and not other times. When I do get it running I have to really crank it with a powerful battery or it will never start and when I get it started it seems to me it's running on 3 cylinders but Iam not familar with the rotary motor. Would some be kind enough to give me some guidance on what to do at this point. I don't know if it's a clogged injector,spark, computer or what ? thank's John
07-21-08, 07:11 PM
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if your rx7 is running on ONLY 3 cylinders, you definately have a problem 
but seriously, what do you mean by powerful battery? as in, your stock battery doesn't work, but it works when you use a bigger battery?
but seriously, what do you mean by powerful battery? as in, your stock battery doesn't work, but it works when you use a bigger battery?
07-21-08, 07:35 PM
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Seems like your plugs are so fouled with gas that only a few are working properly. I'd replace them and go from there. Also it does seem like its just a flooding issue. WHENEVER you start your car, be sure to completely let it come to operating temperature before you shut it down. If you cannot wait that long, I've told RX8 customers to rev it up to 2500 RPM for approx 15 secs and turn it off while at 2500 to make sure that you haven't idled forever dumping unused gas into the rotor housings for a hard start next time.
Also consider removing all 4 injectors and having them rebuilt for about $11 each plus shipping. If an injector doesn't close completely then it will allow the pressurized fuel in the line to leak past for next startup.
If you have a check engine light it may indicate that your water temperature sending unit in the back of your water pump is broken making the car think that it's always cold. When the engine is still cold, its kinda in a "warm up mode" and gives the engine more fuel than when at operating temperature.
If all else doesn't fix, I've never tried but its another idea.. http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm
Also consider removing all 4 injectors and having them rebuilt for about $11 each plus shipping. If an injector doesn't close completely then it will allow the pressurized fuel in the line to leak past for next startup.
If you have a check engine light it may indicate that your water temperature sending unit in the back of your water pump is broken making the car think that it's always cold. When the engine is still cold, its kinda in a "warm up mode" and gives the engine more fuel than when at operating temperature.
If all else doesn't fix, I've never tried but its another idea.. http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm
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