Trav

Help, I need the 91 wiring diagrams. Specifically for a convertible. Don't tell me to go download the FSM -- I already have. Everyone has the 89 FSM online which is all fine and dandy except for a few differences like the fuse box, connectors, etc.

If someone has a 91 FSM, I'd sure love to get ahold of some stuff out of there. Otherwise, if anyone knows of a source for ACCURATE & DETAILED wiring diagrams, I would be very grateful and you'll get a huge pile of thanks!

By the way, the Haynes manuals are worse than the 89 FSM -- I have that too, so that won't work either.

thanks!!

Icemark

I have posted here and on teamfc3s.org several times the wiring diagrams for the fuse box and audio wiring for the 90-91 'verts.

Scott 89t2

are you sure the 89 FSM is different then 91? I think the problem you have is the 89 FSM online doesn't even have a wiring diagram with it

Icemark

BTW: the only difference between the 88-89 vert wiring and the 90-91 is the air bag... everything else is the same.

rx_7_driver

i might be able to get a hold of some for you what its not from the fms but its from our computer at out school (its what i use, and is has been right on the money everytime so far) what do u need it on?????

-Shawn

Trav

Icemark: Thanks, I'll search for some of your old posts. And by the way, the Air bag is one of the things I'm trying to track down -- so as I said the 89 doesn't have what I need.

Scott: What do you mean it doesn't have a wiring diagram? There are several wiring diagrams in the FSM so I'm not sure what you're saying.

To all: I did notice other differences like connectors. I haven't compared all of them, but one of the things I was looking for had a different connector in my car than was listed in the FSM. Same number of wires, just slightly different connector style. Pretty sure mine is the factory connector also. Not to discount what you are saying, but I think there are more differences than you might realize. Part of the issue is simply, if this is different, what else is different. I'd just be more comfortable and growing less gray hair if I knew I had the most accurate info as possible.

Shawn: I've included some more detailed info below -- basically I need anything related to: Airbag, starter, ignition switch, clutch safety switch, blower motor...

I'll post again, but I've posted several times w/ no luck on my problem -- which is why I've resorted to getting as many wiring diagrams I can get my hands on. Basically w/o the airbag fuse in the fuse block, my blower motor doesn't work (and I'm assuming my airbag doesn't either). If I put it in, it (they) do, however now the starter turns even with the key in the "ON" position. And turns regardless of whether the clutch is in or not.

Here are a couple of the threads on the subject...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=116687

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=111800

Trav

Icemark, I forgot one thing. I think that I have gotten your wiring diagram of the fuseblock in the past. In fact I know I have because it is in that second thread I posted above. Anyway, the wire colors are not legible in the image, so if you have a better quality one that you can email me (or posted somewhere else where image size doesn't matter) that would definitely help me. Thanks!!

Icemark

Pm me your email address and I will send you what I have electronicly

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

If you plan on doing any sort of work to your car, BUY A SHOP MANUAL. They don't cost *that* much, and they're completely invaluable.

Dale

Trav

Where would I get a shop manual at? Dealer? Any idea on the cost? I guess the next question too would be is it possible to buy the 91 FSM anymore? And how much would that run me? I can make some calls tomorrow, just wanting to know the sticker shock... Icemark, you should get a PM pretty quick. thanks!!

Trav

UPDATE:

Thanks to Icemark and his diagrams, I have gotten a little farther on this but still need some assitance.

From those diagrams, it appears as though my ignition switch is working properly (correct continuity). (Which is funny because the 89 FSM lists the continuity differently -- and led me to originally believe I had a problem there.)

My clutch safety switch (starter inhibitor) works properly too. However, with the key in the "ON" position, the starter turns (regardless of clutch position). It appears to be that the starter solenoid is getting 12v in the "ON" position when it's not supposed to. From what I can tell, this wire to the solenoid is the wire from the clutch switch. (They have continuity, are colored the same, and have 12v in both places in the "ON" position).

So, I think I need a way to trace that wire from the starter through the wiring harness... Also, you might check those old threads I mentioned a few posts ago for background info. All of this is the latest status after ripping out an aftermarket alarm and "repairing" the hack job on the wiper switch.

Ultimately I believe there is a short somewhere or something because when I bought the car, everything was working properly as long as I didn't have the airbag fuse in (which meant no blower either). Now the blower works like a charm, but this is all happening regardless of airbag fuse or not.

It's crazy and making me the same -- electrical is not my forte'. Sorry for the long post, but any help is greatly appreciated.

'Vert in Vegas

There is on on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1873099406

auction ends Nov-26-02 17:20:09 PST

HAILERS

http://www.mazdatrix.com/m.htm

If you go to the inhibitor switch on the clutch, and disconnect it, does the starter still turn when the key is to the ON position?

Trav

Yes. It appears to be unrelated to that switch as even when disconnected, there is still 12v at the starter solenoid

Trav

<bump>

Any other thoughts?

Icemark

If there is always 12V+ at the starter, then there is either broken switch of wires have been jumpered that should not be.

lets start at the inhibit switch (two thick green wires at the top of ths clutch). with the Key on in the ON (not start position) do either have 12V+ on them???

If either does, first unplug the thick Blk/Grn from the ignition switch.

does 12V+ go away with the key still in the ON position?

If it does you have a bad switch or wires hooked up incorrectly at the switch, or an incorrectly installed Ttimer or aftermarket security system.

If it does not:
unplug the factory starter kill relay located under the hood near the clutch master and main relay.

Is there still voltage on either green wire at the inhibit switch???

If there is and both the starter kill relay and the ignition switch blk/grn is disconnected your meter is broken or you are smoking crack.

if disconnecting the starter kill relay solves the problem either the starter solinode is bad or there are aftermarket wires tapped into the circuit.

Trav

I believe that my clutch switch is working properly as I tested it separately than anything else. Also, I need to verify this, so I'll go out tonight or tomorrow and check and reply back -- but I believe that one of the wires has 12v in the ON position and then the other has 12v in the start position. I believe that one that has 12v in the ON is the problem as that is the same one that goes to the starter solenoid. (I THINK).

I'll do some checking and post again later... thanks for the input!

HAILERS

OOOps. Missed that part about the AFTERMARKET ALARM SYSTEM. That probably means that you don't have the starter kill relay. But that might be a good area to start at. If there was no factory alarm system, then instead of the relay, you'll find a blue connector with a wire jumpered on its back side. I guarantee, if you pull that connector with the jumper wire, the car will never start. You might have to remove the trail coil assy to see this blue connector.

The problem is finally going to be where you ripped out the aftermarket system and spliced/repaired the wires. Might go back and undo each one until the problem changes. Seems that the wire downstream of the interlock switch,has had a 12v source spliced into it when it should not be there. I guess thats why ICEMARK asked you to disconnect that connector to see if you have 12v on each side of the interlock switch.

You may have to take up smoking crack if you can't find out what the problem is. Might make you forget that problem and give you a whole new set of problems to worry about.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Buy It? I spent an entire weekend printing an online shop manual from www.fc3s.org on a shitty BJC 250! Once the sheet printed I Immediately flipped It over to get the back. Well worth It!!!

Trav

silverrotor: I know what you mean... That's actually what I've been doing for awhile -- BUT, as I said earlier, if I had an 89, that would be great, but there are some differences in the 91... In the mean time, I'm watching the auctions, etc...

Hailers: Thanks for the reasurrance on the starter kill -- that sounds very promising since Icemark mentioned it too. I'll probably check that first since that sounds like a 'red flag'.

downwinddave

$68.26...the best money spent. FSM with wiring diag
There are considerable differences with the '91
enough to make it worthwhile!

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...5-018S-9999-91

Trav

Well, battery is dead now, so not able to crank the starter and perform additional tests. I found a few things out tho before that.

I think I found the starter kill relay -- Here's a pic from Icemark on a different thread awhile back.



If I understood correctly, starting on the right side (out of picture) is the clutch 'master cylinder', then working left into the pic is big gold box thing, then starter kill relay, then trailing coil pack, then strut tower, etc. I unplugged what I thought was the starter kill relay and tested the voltage at clutch switch plug again as Icemark indicated and still have voltage there in "ON". Not smoking crack, and good meter.

While I had all that apart, I thought I'd check voltages on that plug w/ the relay removed. Maybe this won't mean anything, but can anyone check this out and see if this sounds correct or not?

Here is a crude pic of the relay connector -- I've also attached a slightly less crude bmp of the same connector. As indicated, there are 4 wires...

------------<-->-------------
|__X__ |__Z___|______|
-------------------------------
|__O__|______|__Y___|
-------------------------------

<--> represents the top of the plug -- i.e. the tab that you push to release the plug from relay. Keep in mind these readings were taken on the connector w/ the relay removed.

X -- lite guage wire. Black w/ green stripe. 12v in "ON" and "START"
Z -- heavier guage. Black with blue stripe. 12v in "START".
O -- Lite guage. Green with yellow stripe. No voltage at anytime
Y -- Heavy guage. Black with green stripe. No voltage anytime.

Any thoughts on if this sounds right or not??
Thanks again for everyone's patience and ideas. It takes me a little while with electronics, but am slowly learning all of the pieces of this RX7 too.

HAILERS

Seems ICEMARK wanted you to disconnect the interlock switch and see if you still had 12 on that Blk/green wire at the relay. I'll get off this thread now. I don't have the 90 whatever schematic, just a 87. Colors seem different.
I do wonder why your car had a aftermarket theft device but seems to have a factory unit. Else why the relay? 87 cars without the relay, have no theft device and vice versa.

downwinddave

When I get to office will scan wiring diag. you want

if you do not buy that FSM on ebay I will, let me know I do not want to bid against you

Trav

Dave: I am planning on buying that one on ebay... Thanks for asking.

Hailers/Icemark: To clarify, I did disconnect the interlock switch and test there -- that was actually in an earlier post before this last update.