Hey there, I'm having a crank and mostly no start issue with my car, I've listed all the things I've checked and their specifications, along with the things I've yet to check as the car is now cranking, occasionally almost starting or popping out the exhaust, but not staying running. It did once and kind of ran but it did not go into the warm up cycle as it normally does, I had to hold my foot down to keep it at 3000 rpm. This all happened after a nice drive, and a gentle car wash. It ran absolutely beautifully when it did, and that was right after cleaning the injectors and re assembling the fuel and intake system.

Firstly, I double checked with both a rotary compression tester and a standard compression tester without the core in, and got a hot compression average ( after the one time it ran) of front rotor having between 120 and 130 psi over 3 tests (rotary compression tester) and 110-108 over three tests with the standard compression tester, 110-120 on the rear with the rotary tester, 98-115 on the standard compression tester. Cold test yielded similar results with no obvious drop from any compression pulses.

Then going through plugs (brand new, approximately 200kms on them), ignition coil packs (testing below 1 ohm), plug wires (testing in the kilo-ohms as per the manual specifications). So that side of ignition system to my knowledge appears good. I also checked the crank angle sensor, both connections read 175.5 ohms (between 110-210 as per manual).

I tested the fuel system to an extent, put in a known good pump and nothing changed, pulled off the fuel sending line and got some fuel flowing through at an ok volume but I cannot get it high enough to read on my fuel pressure gauge while cranking. The fuel filter is brand new with maybe 400kms on it. The return line has no fuel coming out of it which has me puzzled. I tested the intake air sensor and fuses, all good there too

Next on my hit list to check would be going through the manual and looking for possible issues with the secondary air system, intake air system (and thermosensor), and then see if there's a possibility of the ignition module for this car getting wet and being damaged.

Thoughts?

 

how did you clean the injectors? i have dealt with some questionable injector cleaning companies in the past who used water based cleaning solvents, the results were seized up injectors that i had to manually unstick and lubricate. those retarded youtube videos showing people using degreasers and dry solvents need to be taken down, they give people the false impression that injector cleaning is that simple.

injectors need a parafin lubrication procedure just after cleaning to prevent internal rust seizure, if something like that was performed.

that or a massive intake leak is present somewhere. start by checking the simple things, make sure you intake piping and all vacuum lines are where they need to be and connected solidly.

 

Hi there,

I would further inspect your fuel system. Jump the yellow connector in the engine bay on the passenger side(it's the only yellow connector, you'll see it). This will turn your pump on and you can test your fuel system properly.

Follow the FSM procedure to test your fuel pressure and post your results.

Edit: Do this with your key in the ON position. You should hear your pump turn on.

 

Just recently got my 88 running after similar things where it would run for a moment and die.

Eventually had my son manually push open the MAF sensor below the air filter with a screw driver. That kept the fuel pump on. Same as earlier mentioned earlier about plugging the yellow connector to test the fuel pump.