Here i am again with another update. Put a used AFM in and wouldnt you know it nothing changed. the car will NOT start with an AFM plugged in.

 

Did you take the voltage reading of the wire as before to see if you get the same readings. If you get the same readings then it's possible the AFM plug is causing the issue. If the wire reads as it should (5 volts w/key to on-everything plugged in) then it's possible that the engine is flooded.

 

i got it to run and hold idle with the AFM unplugged. The idle is rough and it sounds like maybe only 1 rotor is firing. also, im getting alot of fuely smoke coming from either the engine bay or the exhaust, i cant tell because its in a garage. I will check the connector and report back. Can the engine run while its flooded? i guess my question is, does an idle rule out flooding?

 

When the engine is run w/o the AFM it pours too much fuel into the engine.

And w/the AFM connected you can check the wire at the AFM as well.

 

i put the key to "on" and then tested each metal contact at the AFM connector, none of the connectors registered any voltage. Could i be doing the test wrong? do i need to do anything with the black/(-) test probe?

 

When you test for voltage the red meter lead goes to the wire being measured and the black meter lead to a ground (negative battery terminal) And the Brown/Black wires (2 of them) are grounds so they would not normally show voltage. What does the Brown/White wire read w/key to on and AFM unplugged (5 volts?).

 

Hmmm i still dont see where you checked compression. Sounds like a 1 rotor rx7 to me.

 

On the previous AFM the Brown/White was showing no voltage when this is the Vref wire as it should read 5 volts w/key to on. Now he's getting the car to run w/o the AFM connected which pours excessive fuel into the engine thus it should not run properly at idle and the excess fuel could be fouling the plugs on one rotor. The Green wire in the AFM plug is a shielded wire and it's possible the shield is coming in contact w/the wire and grounding it out and causing the AFM to not function properly.

 

brown/white wire reads 5 volts with key to on.

 

im not sure if this is pertinent but the all green wire is reading crazy high voltage thats kind of all over the place. im not sure if my tester is broken or what but the numbers dont make sense.

 

And I'm guessing the voltage on that wire drops to zero w/the AFM plugged in. You need to set the meter to continuity. Unplug the AFM. place one meter lead into the back of the plug where the Green wire resides. Place the other meter lead to the negative battery terminal. This is all done w/key to off. The meter should not ring out and if it does then the Green wire is likely the issue.

 

Try jumpering the fuel check connector with the AFM plugged in. That should allow you to take the AFM relay circuit out of the equation, but still allow it to measure the incoming air. See attached pic for the connector location.

 

I did this test and there was no continuity between the ground and the green wire. i tested front and backside with key to off, and neither one gave a tone.

so jump the wire and then attempt to start it? im going to also test this AFM to see if i got a bad one, but i doubt lucky 7 would send me a faulty part. A little history here, i think my last ECU got fried because if i plug in my old ECU and unplug the AFM the car wont start. but if i plug in my replacement ECU and unplug the AFM the car will start. So theres a clue there, i wonder what fried my ECU back in November?

 

Next up is to check both Brown/Black wires. W/the meter set to continuity place one meter lead into the back of one Br/B wire and the other meter lead into the back of the plug for the other Br/B wire and the meter should ring out.

 

Roger satch, i will get to it tomorrow. Its midnight here in Spain and ive got work in 4 hours. Thanks everyone for all the help.

 

I can't stand how much money you are blowing away because you are in a foreign country.

I'm located in Austria, don't hesitate to contact me if you need any used parts, I will try to help you out. (will send you my E-Mail via PM)
I have tons of parts laying around and some friends of me too.
Would be definitly easier and faster for you if I ship them from Austria to Spain.

 

Update: kinda gave up for the month. Gonna do Satch's test tonight and also check continuity from the ECU pin to the AFM connecter. Hopefully its bad and I can just run a standalone wire to the ECU.

 

I agree with those who are saying to check compression. Just to rule it out. Even if you mess up the test a lil, it would be obvious if there's a huge difference between rotors.

There's a chance you're chasing ghosts in the other systems. I'm saying that because if you test a part or circuit wrong, it's easy to think you found a fault, when it's actually you that are at fault. Been there, done that.