The engine was rebuilt around 3k miles ago (AUG 2015) by a reputable shop in California. The only thing they salvaged out of the motor were the rotors. Aside from the rebuild I also had the injectors cleaned. I took the car on a road trip after it was rebuilt and it ran great (there was an occasional issue of losing responsiveness at high ambient temperature 3000 RPM hesitation). Im in the Navy and recently transferred to Spain. I shipped the car and it took about 2 months to get here (NOV 2015). After it arrived I picked it up, turned it on, drove it about 5 minutes away to a gas station and filled it up with 96 octane (European octane). Then, I drove it for another 2 minutes to merge onto the highway and then after about 3 minutes at highway speed I immediately noticed significant power loss and no response from the gas pedal. I put my hazards on, pulled over and shut the car off. The car has not started since. It will crank but it will not start.

What ive done to troubleshoot, in order:

-Changed sparkplugs to brand new out of the box spark plugs.

-Checked the fuel pump by jumping the connector with the feed hose disconnected (fuel flows freely)

-Checked for a spark and based on my tests I am not getting one. (placed tester probe into spark plug wire and grounded the other tester probe while cranking. no jump in voltage, Also connected spark plug to spark plug wire outside of the engine, grounded it while cranking while looking for a spark, and didn't see one)

-To check if fuel was getting to the engine (this is the part I currently need help with) I placed a balloon on the spark plug hole and cranked the motor. the balloon filled up with air and I threw that on the fire and it burned as if it did contain fuel vapor.


Based on my research and tests I think it might be the CAS or the ECU. I have ordered both of these parts from a forum member and they should be getting here in about two weeks. I have tried to do most things myself but now im turning to the forums for assistance. I have an FSM but no compression tester. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

ALSO: Not throwing any codes!

Fuses are good in Engine bay and 15Amp under hood is good

 

I'd be finding a compression tester honestly

 

Was the fuel non methanol / non ethanol unleaded gasoline? Have you redlined engine at all after the break in period? I'm very suspect of this fuel you used; seeing as how the car has quit shortly after a fill up in the country you have shipped it to.

 

I just bought a compression tester and will post the numbers as soon as I complete the test. As far as fuel is concerned I too have been suspicious that there was an issue with the gas that went into the car. The symptoms of its failure point in that direction because in order to ship your car your tank must be at a 1/4 or below and mine was resting on the empty line. The symptoms I experienced were almost like fuel cutting out, so maybe the gas in the tank is not serviceable? To be honest I don't know if the fuel was either methanol or ethanol gas, but I can tell you that it was unleaded. I have redlined the motor plenty of times after the break in period. The first thing I did after 3k miles was change the oil and start redlining it whenever I drove it. I will drain the fuel tank and refuel it with the gasoline on base.

 

Did you change the fuel filter? After all these years, the bottom of the tank accumulates sediment and rust. When it gets low and you fill up, it stirs up the sediment and clogs the filter. If this is what happened, your fuel pump may quit soon too.

 

I did not change the fuel filter. I will order one today, change, and update.

 

Make sure the main relay is working properly. check the black/Yellow wire at the lead coil for 12 volts w/key to on. then check the Green check connector near the lead coil and verify that the Black/White wire also has 12 volts w/key to on.

 

PROGRESS

i checked the main relay and it appeared to be functional, thank you satch. I replaced the ECU and there was definitely a change. Before the car would only crank and that was it. Now that i have replaced the ECU the car is cranking and fighting to idle but it will NOT stay on. It rumbles for a split second and shuts off. I can smell fuel and exhaust while cranking which i couldnt before. The next thing i will do is a compression test. Thanks to all so far.

Edit: i think i will change the fuel filter first and then do a compression test.

 

Fuel filter costs $$$. Renting a compression tester is free, and easier than a fuel filter change

Just my 2 cents

Edit: i see you bought one, why not do that first period? Denial?

 

Im in Spain and its kind of hard to get stuff like that here. Im new in town and i dont speak spanish. But i have one on hand now. i have a fuel filter, compression tester, used CAS and used ECU. I want to do the fuel filter first because the engine was recently rebuilt and since this seems like a fuel cutout issue i think id like to go straight for the filter.

 

UPDATE

I changed the fuel filter, wow what a grueling task. It did not change anything. The car still rumbles for a two to three seconds and then dies. It will not hold idle. I will do the compression test today when I get home. Please let it not be blown.

I noticed a wire going from the oil pan to a part of the harness was broken off, im not sure if I just did that or if that was already like that. Im not sure what that wire was for, I will research it, but does anyone have any idea? Thanks.


and YES: it was denial that kept me from doing the compression test in the first place.

 

Oil level warning sensor.

 

What color is the wire?

 

I figured it was something related to the oil.

its a single red wire

 

Your symptoms of the car firing up and dying immediately sounds like a vacuum leak.

 

I agree with you Satch. I have been doing research on this subject and I think I will go with the method of using the fog machine to find the leak. I will post more updates as time goes on. Quick question on Vac Leaks, are there vac leaks that would warrant the rebuilding of the engine? Thanks again.

 

A leak from a gasket requires more work than a hose replacement, but neither would involve a rebuild. And you could also possibly have a clogged exhaust.

 

would that blockage be at the cat? Im thinking ill unbolt the cat and give it a try.

 

Likely so if its clogged.

 

And your circuit opening relay might be the cause of your problem.

 

Today i jumpered the fuel pump test connector so the pump would stay on while i cranked. The car didnt start or anything. i could hear the fuel pump whirring with the key to on. So now this weekend i will do the compression test, post the numbers, remove the cat, and order the smoke machine to look for vaccuum leaks. I also need to get some jackstands because i hate being under the car with only the stock jack. it is so nervewracking. Thanks to everyone for replying. Thanks to Satch for helping me, you are a extremely helpful. Most of the time when im researching your tips im finding your old posts from years ago, so once again thank you.

 

And potentially deadly.

 

here is a video update of the activity. Its weird that it will stay on for longer if the clutch is in and the transmission is in 1st gear.

I have my fog machine to check vacuum leaks but i dont have the 7/16 hose to hook it up to the brake booster >.< but i have my jackstands to safely get under the car. I havent done a compression test yet because i dont have a "friend" to crank the car while hold the compression tester and take readings. i bought a piston engine compression tester.

at 00:42 i put the transmission into neutral and try to start it.

 

Sounds like you need to "rent" a freind, and get more than help with your car