1988 rx7 vs 2001 mustang 3.8
#51
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Originally Posted by Richter12x2
I can see where you'd be confused, because obviously you're an idiot. The only thing age factors in is that cars become less efficient due to their age, but not solely due to age - it's using age as a rough estimator of mileage.
Want me to break it down for you? Let's see if I can lead you down the right path so you can draw your own conclusions.
Did you know the seals on a rotary engine are essentially "wear" items? That means that as miles go on, and the little cast iron scrapey thing on the edge of every rotor does it's little scrapey thing, and as they get smaller and more worn, and the springs go in and out eleventy-billion times, they seal less and less don't they? Less and less sealing, slower and slower spring action - what do you think happens to compression?
I'm not saying a car can't be faster just because it's older - you'd have to be an idiot to think that. Really. Who would honestly think that an 07 Kia could beat, say a 1970 Chevelle SS at the dragstrip?
Yeah yeah, you're going to say "What if it's rebuilt?" You're still not going to stock compression unless you're using brand new rotors, irons, housings, springs, and seals everytime. Which at last pricing would put you at around $3500+ for a rebuild.
So go ahead, keep talking out of your ***.
Want me to break it down for you? Let's see if I can lead you down the right path so you can draw your own conclusions.
Did you know the seals on a rotary engine are essentially "wear" items? That means that as miles go on, and the little cast iron scrapey thing on the edge of every rotor does it's little scrapey thing, and as they get smaller and more worn, and the springs go in and out eleventy-billion times, they seal less and less don't they? Less and less sealing, slower and slower spring action - what do you think happens to compression?
I'm not saying a car can't be faster just because it's older - you'd have to be an idiot to think that. Really. Who would honestly think that an 07 Kia could beat, say a 1970 Chevelle SS at the dragstrip?
Yeah yeah, you're going to say "What if it's rebuilt?" You're still not going to stock compression unless you're using brand new rotors, irons, housings, springs, and seals everytime. Which at last pricing would put you at around $3500+ for a rebuild.
So go ahead, keep talking out of your ***.
Originally Posted by Richter12x2
Hers was a 1994, so it was the 145 hp one - it's a convertible, and it was a rent car, so it was detuned so jackasses like you didn't rent it to tear it up in a single weekend.
#52
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Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
Ok well now i get it , i thought there were 4 shifts because there are four gears but i didnt really look at it that way.
But using windows calculator i donno how u got 191hp, because i got 188.24 hp for 160whp. Because 188.24 x .85 (15% drivetrainloss) = 160.004 hp at wheels
But using windows calculator i donno how u got 191hp, because i got 188.24 hp for 160whp. Because 188.24 x .85 (15% drivetrainloss) = 160.004 hp at wheels
I think the most power id make with safc tune and finished cold air intake is 200 at the flywheel, which would be 170 at the wheels
Knowing i need only 3 shifts my car should definitely run mid to high 14's with 160whp if i can get perfect launch/shifts , although i havent seen any s4 na 1/4 mile slips running 14's i think mine can do it
How i figure my cars power - 146hp stock
Streetport - + 10hp
Header - + 15hp
Catback - + 8hp
Intake - + 5hp (could be losing hp from this tho since intake is inengine bay and not sucking up cold air)
Straight pipe - + 5hp
Removed 5/6 ports - + 1hp
All this together = 190hp
Mods to come -
Safc dyno tune - + 7 hp
Finished intake - + 3 hp
Alltogether 200hp after all mods, 170whp or should be around there
Finished cai
Knowing i need only 3 shifts my car should definitely run mid to high 14's with 160whp if i can get perfect launch/shifts , although i havent seen any s4 na 1/4 mile slips running 14's i think mine can do it
How i figure my cars power - 146hp stock
Streetport - + 10hp
Header - + 15hp
Catback - + 8hp
Intake - + 5hp (could be losing hp from this tho since intake is inengine bay and not sucking up cold air)
Straight pipe - + 5hp
Removed 5/6 ports - + 1hp
All this together = 190hp
Mods to come -
Safc dyno tune - + 7 hp
Finished intake - + 3 hp
Alltogether 200hp after all mods, 170whp or should be around there
Finished cai
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Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
Well I guess if I ever get an safc and get my car dyno tested we'll see what kind of numbers you get a on used housings for a streetported n/a now wont we ?
Now this is off topic, but if any mustang id like to race the older foxbody 5.0 gt , i think those would be fun to race with a fixed up n/a. Anyone run one ?
But I'd've got him easy in the Rx7 - the stock Neon only puts down 132hp, and mine's modified for turning more than hp.
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Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
While I did misunderstand what you said, I still find it hilarious that you feel the need to call me names haha.
I wouldn't call it a need to insult you - more of a compulsion, really. Which I wouldn't have felt if you hadn't lead off your misinformed reply with "Ignorance at its best." If you really want to find it hilarious, I've got better names, too.
And you just keep putting your foot in your mouth - is it because your hat's too tight?
Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
Either way your point was not worth mentioning, the 5psi (?)loss of compression has little to do with whether he'll win the race or not. You have no idea whether or not hes on his original motor either or how many miles it has.
Originally Posted by Richter12x2
Yeah yeah, you're going to say "What if it's rebuilt?" You're still not going to stock compression unless you're using brand new rotors, irons, housings, springs, and seals everytime. Which at last pricing would put you at around $3500+ for a rebuild.
Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
Small modifications can easily outweigh the loss of power through 5psi of compression.
Originally Posted by bechuga
both cars are stock
Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
Also to clear something up, my misunderstanding was that a 20 year old car couldn't outperform a brand new car in the same class, not an ecobox vs. a muscle car.
Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
Compare the RX7 to a newer lower model import sports coupe, say an RSX, Kouki 240SX, Scion TC, 3000GT, they all run 16s.
Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
lol...jackasses like me huh you mean jackases that drag race 132hp neons every chance they get? or 17 second RX7s? . Just what we need on our public streets, kids who watch FNF and race any turd they see on the street and post on a forum about it
Last edited by Richter12x2; 03-07-07 at 07:51 PM.
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Originally Posted by -90gtu-
ok, i raced a guy from my work who has a 2001 auto v6 stang with a AEM cold air intake, and flowmaster dual exhaust, with my 1990 gtu with just a cone and we were even until 4th gear then he started to pull, then we had to slow down but i knew he wud have gotten farther ahead but not by much
#57
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Originally Posted by Richter12x2
Yeah, I just picked a likely number and plugged it in - 191 * 0.85 = 161.something, and I rounded. It's not like I was way off.
I'm just saying that's probably a little optimistic. I have a streetported NA with 3" exhaust all the way back, a gutted cat (not intentionally, but it is now ), probably the same intake you do if you got the E-bay special, removed emissions, a tuned SAFC, and Functional 5th and 6th ports (which make more hp than removing the sleeves, search on it, it's true) and I doubt very much if I'm seeing those kind of numbers.
I'm just saying that's probably a little optimistic. I have a streetported NA with 3" exhaust all the way back, a gutted cat (not intentionally, but it is now ), probably the same intake you do if you got the E-bay special, removed emissions, a tuned SAFC, and Functional 5th and 6th ports (which make more hp than removing the sleeves, search on it, it's true) and I doubt very much if I'm seeing those kind of numbers.
I am using the lightweight steel racingbeat flywheel (17lbs w/counterweight compared to 23.9 lbs stock w/counterweight) which I would think may give me more power to the wheels since theres less rotating mass (less weight to lose power through).
I'm also using redline synthetic transmission fluid and redline synthetic diff fluid, which will probably give less than 1whp gain on dyno but still better than stock nonetheless.
Also 3" is too big for n/a youre sacraficing torque for power , even jrat on here has a turbo2 running 490whp with 2.5" piping so why would you need 3" on n/a thats overkill and just making your car sound more powerful than it really is and actually making it slower than it should be.
I could be wrong about 3" being too big but why would they make racing beat headers with a 2.5" collector if 3" was the size to go with.
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 03-07-07 at 10:14 PM.
#59
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pengarufoo: V6 mustangs are "slow" too. Automatics are slower than the s4 N/A manual.
wtfdidusay:
You have an upgraded exhaust too, right?? I mean, that's where the real power is.
Flywheel the inertia is similar to car inertia. You are essentially shaving weight by using the lighter flywheel. Much more than 6.9lbs. since it's spinning rather fast. The "weight" savings are greatest in 1st gear, and least in 5th gear.
The redline in the tranny mainly allows faster shifting. As for the diff, I dunno.
3" won't hurt, but it is totally unnecessary.
Torque x rpm = power. It is impossible to decrease torque and increase power at the same time. I don't know of any exhaust that drops your redline, hehe. For that matter, it only causes confusion to talk about torque as if it were a thing seperate from power (like now). If you look at horsepower only you'll be fine. If you look at torque only it involves some math and an understanding of physics (you can't just use the torque number as-is). So in general it's simpler to ignore torque and just look at power only (which works fine as-is).
wtfdidusay:
You have an upgraded exhaust too, right?? I mean, that's where the real power is.
Flywheel the inertia is similar to car inertia. You are essentially shaving weight by using the lighter flywheel. Much more than 6.9lbs. since it's spinning rather fast. The "weight" savings are greatest in 1st gear, and least in 5th gear.
The redline in the tranny mainly allows faster shifting. As for the diff, I dunno.
3" won't hurt, but it is totally unnecessary.
Torque x rpm = power. It is impossible to decrease torque and increase power at the same time. I don't know of any exhaust that drops your redline, hehe. For that matter, it only causes confusion to talk about torque as if it were a thing seperate from power (like now). If you look at horsepower only you'll be fine. If you look at torque only it involves some math and an understanding of physics (you can't just use the torque number as-is). So in general it's simpler to ignore torque and just look at power only (which works fine as-is).
Last edited by ericgrau; 03-07-07 at 10:57 PM.
#60
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Yes I have racing beat streetable header, dual 2" to 2.5" collector , straight pipe in place of cat (2.5" in/out) , and borla dual catback exhaust 2.5" before the y pipe dual 2" after to 2 1/2 tips (or 2 1/4" not sure).
In all my system is consistant , why would you want 3" piping ? Thats just way too big , the only people that run that are turbo and thats usually only to make the turbo spool faster from less restriction and more flow, but the 2.5" isnt a restriction to an na that is only producing around 200 hp or less.
You could be right about the torque not decreasing if power is increased but i think the powerband will be shifted up into higher rpms and youll be having to rev higher to get all the power out of your car, where as with the smaller piping you may get less power but you get a better overall power throughout the entire powerband
3" will may get higher peak power it does not mean your car is faster it only means its more peak power at that given rpm, 2.5" having a higher average power through the powerband is more significant than having a higher peak power with lower average power.
I could be wrong but this is just what I think , anyone can correct me if am wrong and they have proof (dyno/track results)
In all my system is consistant , why would you want 3" piping ? Thats just way too big , the only people that run that are turbo and thats usually only to make the turbo spool faster from less restriction and more flow, but the 2.5" isnt a restriction to an na that is only producing around 200 hp or less.
You could be right about the torque not decreasing if power is increased but i think the powerband will be shifted up into higher rpms and youll be having to rev higher to get all the power out of your car, where as with the smaller piping you may get less power but you get a better overall power throughout the entire powerband
3" will may get higher peak power it does not mean your car is faster it only means its more peak power at that given rpm, 2.5" having a higher average power through the powerband is more significant than having a higher peak power with lower average power.
I could be wrong but this is just what I think , anyone can correct me if am wrong and they have proof (dyno/track results)
Last edited by wthdidusay82; 03-07-07 at 11:07 PM.
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what kinda stock neon was that, that was able to hang with a 5.0 to 60? I had a friend with a 96 neon sport, the 2.0 420A motor, had a full exhuast and a cold air. I made him look stupid in my old 5.0, from a stop, by 20mph I had about 5 cars on him, all I had was exhaust.
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Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
My intake is not an ebay intake, its the corksport 3.5" aluminum intake piping kit with exhaust heatwrap over it that i put on connected to a bonez maf adapter and kn airfilter. (seen in avatar)
I am using the lightweight steel racingbeat flywheel (17lbs w/counterweight compared to 23.9 lbs stock w/counterweight) which I would think may give me more power to the wheels since theres less rotating mass (less weight to lose power through).
I'm also using redline synthetic transmission fluid and redline synthetic diff fluid, which will probably give less than 1whp gain on dyno but still better than stock nonetheless.
Also 3" is too big for n/a youre sacraficing torque for power , even jrat on here has a turbo2 running 490whp with 2.5" piping so why would you need 3" on n/a thats overkill and just making your car sound more powerful than it really is and actually making it slower than it should be.
2. I did it because I didn't want to buy a whole new exhaust system when I added the turbo, and Dynomax's website recommended a 3" single for cars in the 250-300hp range. Additionally, a lack of backpressure in a turbo allows the turbo to spool faster - which isn't going to be a problem using the NA rotors anyway.
I could be wrong about 3" being too big but why would they make racing beat headers with a 2.5" collector if 3" was the size to go with.
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Originally Posted by bigdaddyp
what kinda stock neon was that, that was able to hang with a 5.0 to 60? I had a friend with a 96 neon sport, the 2.0 420A motor, had a full exhuast and a cold air. I made him look stupid in my old 5.0, from a stop, by 20mph I had about 5 cars on him, all I had was exhaust.
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Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
good ******* god...you know I enjoy flamefests quite often. but when someone writes almost a page worth of their "madtytte races" in their 16 second cars, I give up. I'll award you the win, now go in your neon and race minivans LOL
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Originally Posted by -90gtu-
yea man. i know, i was just backing u up and putting my 2 cents in from my experience. jeeez..........
Is the RX7 a better car? Oh hell yes. Is an S4 Rx7 faster than a 2001 v6 Mustang in the quarter? Probably not.
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Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
Yes I have racing beat streetable header, dual 2" to 2.5" collector , straight pipe in place of cat (2.5" in/out) , and borla dual catback exhaust 2.5" before the y pipe dual 2" after to 2 1/2 tips (or 2 1/4" not sure).
In all my system is consistant , why would you want 3" piping ? Thats just way too big , the only people that run that are turbo and thats usually only to make the turbo spool faster from less restriction and more flow, but the 2.5" isnt a restriction to an na that is only producing around 200 hp or less.
You could be right about the torque not decreasing if power is increased but i think the powerband will be shifted up into higher rpms and youll be having to rev higher to get all the power out of your car, where as with the smaller piping you may get less power but you get a better overall power throughout the entire powerband
3" will may get higher peak power it does not mean your car is faster it only means its more peak power at that given rpm, 2.5" having a higher average power through the powerband is more significant than having a higher peak power with lower average power.
I could be wrong but this is just what I think , anyone can correct me if am wrong and they have proof (dyno/track results)
In all my system is consistant , why would you want 3" piping ? Thats just way too big , the only people that run that are turbo and thats usually only to make the turbo spool faster from less restriction and more flow, but the 2.5" isnt a restriction to an na that is only producing around 200 hp or less.
You could be right about the torque not decreasing if power is increased but i think the powerband will be shifted up into higher rpms and youll be having to rev higher to get all the power out of your car, where as with the smaller piping you may get less power but you get a better overall power throughout the entire powerband
3" will may get higher peak power it does not mean your car is faster it only means its more peak power at that given rpm, 2.5" having a higher average power through the powerband is more significant than having a higher peak power with lower average power.
I could be wrong but this is just what I think , anyone can correct me if am wrong and they have proof (dyno/track results)
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