1988 10AE Cooling issues
08-07-08, 05:13 PM
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1988 10AE Cooling issues
I just got this car from a good buddy of mine who built it up over 7 years. I will copy and paste the mods as he posted it so you all know what is installed:
Engine:
Streetported with about 150 miles on it, 2mm Atkins apex seals, atkins solid corner seals, hurley duplex side seals, new rotor and stationary gear bearings, atkins thermal pellet, oil metering pump is blocked and I run Amsoil premix. An extra case of Amsoil premix is included.
Precision T63 turbo with P-trim turbine wheel and 3" v-band
Haltech E6X
Greddy Ex Manifold
4" turbo back exhaust w/ stainless muffler
50mm HKS knockoff wastegate
Cartech front mount IC
Greddy Type R BOV
Walbro fuel pump
550 primary/1600 secondary injectors
Mallory RR fuel pressure regulator w/ gauge
Ported throttle body
Koyo Radiator
Electric cooling fan
Relocated Battery to passenger bin
ACT 4-puck clutch and ACT pressure plate
Greddy profec B w/ wireless remote
Greddy turbo timer
Innovate Wideband with XD-16 gauge
Autometer boost gauge
AGX shocks all around
Suspension Technique sway bars (front and rear)
Prothane control arm bushings
Brembo cross drilled rotors in front, Mazda OEM pads all around
Kumho Ecsta MX tires 225/50R16, about 5000 miles on them
Original wheels and stereo
Still has functional AC (converted to R134a) and power steering
new ball joints, inner and outer tie rods 5000 miles ago
Obviously some of that does not apply to this issue.
Symptom:
After driving the car for 5 minutes or so, the engine coolant will get up to operating temperature of around 195 degrees F (as read on the Haltech data page). The coolant will then start to creep steadily up regaurdless of whether you are driving or sitting still idling. The temps will eventually sit around 222 degrees f, and do not seem to move much from there.
Things I have tried:
The electric fan has an aluminum shroad on it. I took the fan off, and enlarged the opening to almost the edge of the where the fan ends. This opened up at least 15% of area that the electric fan can pull through.
I installed a brand new mazda thermostat and gasket.
I added Water Wetter for kicks and giggles.
All of these possible solutions have had little to no effect on the overall symptom. The large black belley pan is installed.
I may look into the waterpump as I did not see a terrible lot of coolant movement when I was burping the system. It also looks older.
Thoughts and ideas?
Thank you,
Engine:
Streetported with about 150 miles on it, 2mm Atkins apex seals, atkins solid corner seals, hurley duplex side seals, new rotor and stationary gear bearings, atkins thermal pellet, oil metering pump is blocked and I run Amsoil premix. An extra case of Amsoil premix is included.
Precision T63 turbo with P-trim turbine wheel and 3" v-band
Haltech E6X
Greddy Ex Manifold
4" turbo back exhaust w/ stainless muffler
50mm HKS knockoff wastegate
Cartech front mount IC
Greddy Type R BOV
Walbro fuel pump
550 primary/1600 secondary injectors
Mallory RR fuel pressure regulator w/ gauge
Ported throttle body
Koyo Radiator
Electric cooling fan
Relocated Battery to passenger bin
ACT 4-puck clutch and ACT pressure plate
Greddy profec B w/ wireless remote
Greddy turbo timer
Innovate Wideband with XD-16 gauge
Autometer boost gauge
AGX shocks all around
Suspension Technique sway bars (front and rear)
Prothane control arm bushings
Brembo cross drilled rotors in front, Mazda OEM pads all around
Kumho Ecsta MX tires 225/50R16, about 5000 miles on them
Original wheels and stereo
Still has functional AC (converted to R134a) and power steering
new ball joints, inner and outer tie rods 5000 miles ago
Obviously some of that does not apply to this issue.
Symptom:
After driving the car for 5 minutes or so, the engine coolant will get up to operating temperature of around 195 degrees F (as read on the Haltech data page). The coolant will then start to creep steadily up regaurdless of whether you are driving or sitting still idling. The temps will eventually sit around 222 degrees f, and do not seem to move much from there.
Things I have tried:
The electric fan has an aluminum shroad on it. I took the fan off, and enlarged the opening to almost the edge of the where the fan ends. This opened up at least 15% of area that the electric fan can pull through.
I installed a brand new mazda thermostat and gasket.
I added Water Wetter for kicks and giggles.
All of these possible solutions have had little to no effect on the overall symptom. The large black belley pan is installed.
I may look into the waterpump as I did not see a terrible lot of coolant movement when I was burping the system. It also looks older.
Thoughts and ideas?
Thank you,
08-07-08, 09:01 PM
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Honestly I am not sure. It seems to pull a decent amount of air.
I changed the waterpump to a brand new one this evening. The temps go up slower, but they still go up. I tightened the hell out of the waterpump belts too.
I am starting to wonder if the E-fan is the problem. I would like to switch to the stock clutch fan, but I would have to trim the fan shroud to fit around the turbo. Do you guys think this would be OK?
Thank you,
-Tyler
08-12-08, 01:31 AM
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Honestly I am not sure. It seems to pull a decent amount of air.
I changed the waterpump to a brand new one this evening. The temps go up slower, but they still go up. I tightened the hell out of the waterpump belts too.
I am starting to wonder if the E-fan is the problem. I would like to switch to the stock clutch fan, but I would have to trim the fan shroud to fit around the turbo. Do you guys think this would be OK?
Thank you,
-Tyler
I changed the waterpump to a brand new one this evening. The temps go up slower, but they still go up. I tightened the hell out of the waterpump belts too.
I am starting to wonder if the E-fan is the problem. I would like to switch to the stock clutch fan, but I would have to trim the fan shroud to fit around the turbo. Do you guys think this would be OK?
Thank you,
-Tyler
08-23-08, 09:19 AM
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Hey,
I would be willing to bet that you have the 16" fan from Sherco. It flows around 3000 cfm IIRC. I also put a bottle of water wetter in it for you too, so let me know if more makes a difference. Any idea what your coolant:water ratio is? It is probably mostly water, which is good for heat transfer, but it will boil at a lower temp (want to say it's somewhere around 215F at that pressure) so if you are running really hot you may want to consider that. See the below threads for more info about the fan and another similar setup.
To answer your question about trimming the shroud, it will be fine to do that. Make sure that the fan will not make contact and that you don't have an excessive gap anywhere to pull air through. Good luck, and give me a call sometime
Later,
-B
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=47559
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread...herco+auto+fan
I would be willing to bet that you have the 16" fan from Sherco. It flows around 3000 cfm IIRC. I also put a bottle of water wetter in it for you too, so let me know if more makes a difference. Any idea what your coolant:water ratio is? It is probably mostly water, which is good for heat transfer, but it will boil at a lower temp (want to say it's somewhere around 215F at that pressure) so if you are running really hot you may want to consider that. See the below threads for more info about the fan and another similar setup.
To answer your question about trimming the shroud, it will be fine to do that. Make sure that the fan will not make contact and that you don't have an excessive gap anywhere to pull air through. Good luck, and give me a call sometime
Later,
-B
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=47559
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread...herco+auto+fan
08-23-08, 09:29 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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hey bro whats up im here in omaha too.. nice to see a local! but yeah i would suggest just replace the fluid if you havent yet, and chech the water ratio on your coolant..plus i would also suggest changin your hoses too.. i had the same problem this summer.. so i changed the fluid, hoses, and bought a new radiator from radiator barn for $160, and bam problem solved! one of my hoses had like a clot in it so wasn't flowing to max potential.. so maybe one of these solutions can solve the problem
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