I know that I will get hit with the "use the search" phrase repeatedly, but I have and continually do so. I'm new to the rotary world and instead of being ignorant to something new and just swapping in another engine right off the bat (not hating on swaps, just my perspective), I want to get a better understanding and appreciation for what an NA 13b has to offer. I coming from Nissan world so bear with me.

My goals for the car are:

170+hp to the wheels
Chassis lightening and strengthening
Overhaul the suspension and set it up for handling.

Overall goal is to have a fun NA backroad car.

My questions are in terms of suspension pieces such as coilovers, sway bars, endlinks and bushings, what other items should i look into?

From the NA performance section I've seen that Street porting, Intake (possibly custom), headers, exhaust and Rtek 2.0 can put me within my goals. But is there anything else to consider on top of that?

In terms of stiffening the chassis, where does the chassis experience the most flex?

Also where could the FC3S use the most lightening?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm just trying to understand this chassis better, and know where to start with my modifications. Thank you in advance

 

yOU ARE ON THE RIGHT TRACK IN STARTING FORM THE BEGINNNG HOWEVER IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GET DOWN BUY A JUNK MOTOR FOR THE JUNKYARD AND REBUILD IT YOURSELF. THE 1988-90 RX7'S COME 160 HP STOCK SO IF YOU ARE SEEKING 170HP TO THE WHEELS IT WONT BE THAT HARD OF A GOAL TO REACH. SUSPENSION WISE RX7'S ARE PRETTY GOOD STOCK THE MORE YOU MESS WITH THE SUSPENSION THE WORSE THE PERFECT BALANCE GETS. GO WITH A SIMPLE TOKICO SHOCK W/ EIBACH SPORTLINE SPRINGS IF IT WILL BE YOUR DAILY DRIVER. THE BASIC ENGINE BOLT ONS SHOULD HAVE YOUR SEVEN ABOVE THE CRANK HP OF 160, MAZDATRIX HAS A NICE TRU DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM GOOD FOR AT LEAST 18HP.

 

Thanks for the input. And I planned on going coilovers right out of the gate. Yes this will be daily'd but only until winter (subaru wagon by then). I have already sourced multiple NAs with good compression for sub $400. I figured rip it apart, get them cleaned, clearanced and streetported. Match that with a turbo trans with lightweight flywheel (11lbs) and a stage 2 clutch and I'm pretty good.

I understand that the RX-7 has "perfect balance" but that stock set up that is over 20+ years old won't be up to par in accomplishing my goals. I'll look into Mazdatrix and their performance parts.

 

If comic sans was an option this guy would use it.

 

Probably stay away from the Turbo trans, it shouldn't be necessary for your goals [and it will add weight+cost for a custom/Mazdatrix driveshaft]

What he meant to say was Racing Beat has a true dual exhaust: http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1...t-Systems.html
The Road Race exhaust pieces are what he's referring to.

Let's see...
*The Rtek 2 will be good for the ECU
*You probably want an S5 intake system: http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake.html
*Pineapple Racing 5th/6th port sleeve inserts: http://www.pineappleracing.com/6-por...sertspair.aspx
*If you're going to put a different motor in or tear that one apart I'd recommend S5 rotors [higher compression/lighter weight, helps a lot] or a whole S5 engine [don't have to grind then]

That all will put you very close.. an S5 does 160HP at the flywheel with all stock pieces in place.. Basically you'd be at that point before you add the exhaust or tuning into the mix.. Oh also the S5 NAs have an 8K redline.

 

Awesome! This is exactly the info I was looking for. My only thing is my car is currently four lug with no LSD and I will be converting to 5 lug. I'm guessing I'm better off saving and getting a KAAZ 2 way or etc.

 

i have these on my vert. they are great!

 

Energy Suspension makes a nice urethane bushing kit for pretty cheap. They're excellent in response and feel!
When removing weight on the car; be weary that if you want to keep the 50/50 ratio, you're going to have to remove equally in addition to what you can do without. Do you want carpeting? Do you want your body to rattle loudly? typical questions you'll have to ask...

 

*Coilovers allow adjustment of the corner weights.

 

Oh I forgot to mention, my car's engine now has FD rotor housings [updated coating, no exhaust diffuser, no turbo specific ports], S5 rotors, and the Pineapple sleeve inserts.
It feels quite a bit faster than it did on all S4 parts..
[Performance wise my next upgrade will eventually be an S5 intake]

 

updated coating? u mean inside the FD housings?

 

I planned on getting the Energy Bushing kit.I'm not worried about weight distribution at this point, it will remain close to 50/50 but you always can compensate through suspension geometry and settings. And yes I will be removing majority of the interior and caging it.

Like I said I am not concerned with comfort at all. I've lucked out and sourced an 87 GXL chassis as a donor with a rebuilt motor. So i plan on cutting that up to achieve my goals. So I plan on transplanting the entire suspension, trans, rear, hubs, calipers and etc over to my chassis.

With the Pineapple port sleeves won't I lose considerable bottom end?

 

you wont loose with the sleeves only gain

a header, safc and exhaust, S5 intake, sleeves should put you very close to your power goals

im assuming you have a base if its 4 lug so no sunroof, power windows etc you can delete a/c, spare tire, airpump and some stuff under the hood but nothing much to really make it that much lighter, IMO

As far as suspension goes I would do poly (i have its a pain but worth it) coilover like HSD's, dtss eliminators and a camber rod for the rear

just keep in mind that once you do header, exhaust the car will be LOUD lol

My 91 when it was n/a only a header and exhaust
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNOOZ6zUtvM

and my current 89 ( no power mods, 5/6th port sleeves removed and the vdi isnt working so i was short shifting at 7k
http://www.youtube.com/user/boardinr.../0/FS7fHlHhcNs


and dont forget if you plan on tracking it GET A RAD and oil temp gauge its so key oh and personally I would do the T2 trans I like the gear ratios more

 

turbo ftw,,,,,,

 

Hmmm well I'll stick with the trans thats coming with the GXL. No point in doing the unnecessary. I'm not worried about noise at all. And hmmmm seems like this is the right formula. It's consistent to what others have been saying so I'll heed this advice and take this route.

If you got nothing to add don't comment. Plus what I have in store after the winter will be more potent than a turbo set-up. And no it's not an LS1 Swap.

 

there is heaps of weight to lose it just depends how extreme you wana go.

Alloy bonnet or fibreglass or carbon fibre where ever available (and i dont mean massive body kits)All the emissions, a/c (all the heater unit or pull out the evapourator inside behind the dash it weighs like 3 kilos) and power steer if it has it, switch to ewp, all carpet and rear seats, install light weight buckets, sound deadening(theres like 15 or more kilos of the damned stuff. Make sure you use dry ice. Trust me you dont want to do it how i did) the four tow hooks if USDM have em and replace them with omp or similar tow hooks. remove all your sound system. it goes on and on but it depends how serious you wanna get. i mean you could tube the front and no or custom dash and door cards but thats crazy extreme. all the little things really do add up

 

Yea, the inside coating. [Unless I am remembering wrong..]

You do not loose power on the low end from using the sleeves. You're probably thinking of having the 5th/6th ports wired open [don't, it's easy enough to make them work properly]

Oh and the exhaust volume isn't bad at all if you have a Racing Beat catback [still much better performance than the stock exhaust, and it sounds soooo good ]

 

Thanks for the advice. And luckily mine doesn't have rear seats, A/C I will probably keep for now. The emissions I can get rid of, and I planned on gutting the interior except for the stereo stuff.

 

Well the GXL got sold right from under me. So I will be sourcing parts again.