31887

Got the car like two years ago.

1. took out alder engine had no compression stopped working, and didnt have enough money to buy rebuild kit so i braught a rebuilt motor from a friend that had less than 15,000 miles on it.

2.did the engine swap in my garage with no hoist just hands. took forever! but got dropped in there just fine no problems there.

3. all i got from the friend was the motor and i used my n326 system and external parts with this motor and he said it was s5 rotors and s5 housings. maybe...

4. set it all up went by the manual and tried to turn the key and didnt start.

5. took it to a guy i know good with ecu's and checked it out said ignition timing was off and there was a wire on the starter that was grounded and wasnt supposed to be and it almost shorted out the system. he fixed it and got the engine to crank back fire but not start.

6.took it to mazda trix and they resealed the oil pan, and found out some other stuff like but i took care of it on my own, clamped the hoses off, put more bolts into the front cover and charged my battery, but the guy who worked on it got the motor to turn on and start but not drive_tup:

now the car is sitting on the street, ive been workin on it and i put more things back together the air temp sensor,water temp sensor,o/2 sensor, air flow meter, everything is plugged and all the vacuum lines are in the right place and the ignition timing is kool but when i crank the motor up now it revs all the way up to 8000 rpm! then it shuts off and sometimes it trys to idle but it cant it shutters and just goes from 2 to 5 erratically and then shuts off. i tried to drive it i accidently did a burnout and then it shut off. so i dont know man i need this thing runnin cuz its out on the street and tags are expired and i cant renew it till i drive to my homie to pass the smog test for me. and people been lookin at it strange like they wanna take it or tow it. parkin enforcement wants to take it bad but i covered the license plate so they cant see but now it be fools mad doggin my car straight hatin on me son. so im just askin for some help in the LA 90029 area or some direction i got the factory service manual got the haynes manual and i went by the book and i cannot get it to work so what do i do now?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Your timing probably is off judging by the position of the crank angle sensor. But if you have mixed and matched pulleys/hubs you never know...

8000RPM start up could be caused by a stuck throttle cable. But also make sure your TPS is set properly!

While we're here... no radiator fan huh? Might want that once you get running

Your temp gauge sensor has no wire connecting to it.

You checked for vacuum leaks, that's good. Now check again. Then after that, re-check.

Good luck!

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

you don't have a fan, your timing doesn't look to be set properly, your brake booster isn't hooked up, coolant temp isn't plugged in, coolant overflow not routed etc etc

why is the computer case open? what were you messing with in there?


considering all of that it's no wonder that it doesn't run properly. take it back to mazdatrix and pay them to get your car running, i don't feel confident in your abilities.

also when you said this "now it be fools mad doggin my car straight hatin on me son" i wanted to punch you in the face.

31887

its a high compression engine so the ignition timing is all the way advanced and if i turn it down a few degrees it still does the same thing starts up then revs to 8000 then shuts off. pullys are correct i double checked that they only go on one way. throttle cable isnt stuck because while its revving to the infinite i can still tap the gas and make it rev a little faster. the TPS is connected but im not sure how to diagnose it and check it for problems thx for the tip ill do that but the car just wont idle. The coolant temp sending unit isnt plugged in because the harness doesnt have a connect for it or else i would have plugged it myself. but ill see what i can do gotta hit up a junkyard.

no vacuum leaks, no water;/collant leakes well kinda old hoses, and everything is plugged correctly.

the fan would get in my way.
timing is fine it starts genius.
what does brake booster have to do with anything?
sensor will get plugged soon
collent overflow??? never heard of it please elaborate...
im a computer technician i was checking the circuit board to make sure everything was ok.

$$2000 says you couldnt get her runnin. mazdatrix cost me all my financial aid money from school.
You dont know me like that fool i been workin on this thing for 2 years just low budget i got factory service manuals plus i been workin on other cars longer.
man i be posted on my roof and one foo scoped out my whip for a hr like got out looked at it moved the towel/skirt looked at the plates then hopped in his car and just stared at my whip like he was writing up a report of some sort. and some other stuff went down wit the killerwhale one time berry pigs "COPS" im just tryina make an honest effort to fix this so i can hook it up more in the future.




You wouldnt punch me in the face LOL!!!!!! im 6'4 black man from tha hood go hide and tuck ya head between ya but cheeks.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

i don't care what color you are, have someone that knows what they are doing work on your car. if you are out of money then sell it, you DON'T have the knowledge to do this properly.

if it took you 2 years to get the car to that point i actually feel sorry for you...

just because a car runs doesn't mean the timing is set properly.


also..that motor has S4 rotor housings

31887

LOL HAHAHAHAHHAH man color dont mean nothin im just tlakin crap because you started it homie. look ive learned alot workin on this car and im tryin my damndest best to fix it aight. money is short thats not my fault im a student and a husband plus a skater for a few companies and etc on some other stuff im pretty busy and time is scarce right now school semester recently started. who are your poeple? man i cant adjust the timing because the engine wont stay on it wont IDLE!!! if i can get this thing to idle then all my headache will be gone and i can drive away in the wind, get the smog check and register it in my wife name cuz my l's is suspended. from what you told me was the obvious stuff like the fan and collant temp sensor, but the overflow what is that!!???!? i just need as much feedback as possible, i aint gon sell it! i dont give up screw the odds id rather have it towed away while im fixin it with me in the engine bay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

check throttle cable tension, take off TB elbow and be sure throttle plates are actually closing all the way, hook up your brake booster properly(otherwise you have a big assed vacuum leak) restab your cas properly then set it to the wear mark from where it was previously tightened(you will still need to hit it with a timing light), plum the line for the coolant overflow(my MOM knows what this is...), set your tps for proper resistance, put the fan and shroud on BEFORE you try to get the car running again, do you want an overheated useless motor?

i can actually see your coolant temp wire hanging out not plugged into anything in one of the pictures.

this is all really basic stuff man...you don't have to take it to mazdatrix if they are too expensive, a regular mechanic could get it running at this point.


also your crank case ventilation isn't hooked up properly, venting it to atmosphere like that won't get rid of condensation properly.

also that "high compression engine" bs doesn't mean anything when setting the timing properly. you're also missing the spacer that goes on the main alternator bolt, without that you risk cracking the alternator mounting ear.

john ward

iTrader: (7)

yes booster not hooked up would raise idle tremendously. Thought you said no vacuum leaks

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

You must make sure the TPS is set proper. See the FSM

"the fan would get in my way."
Of what?

"timing is fine it starts genius."
The timing can be totally off and still start... Align the main pulley by hand to the yellow mark using the pin. Then pull off the crank sensor cover. You want it to align like this.

If it's not, rotate it so it is. Or you may have to re-stab it. It's all in the FSM.


"what does brake booster have to do with anything?"
It's a GIANT vacuum leak

"sensor will get plugged soon"
Fair enough

31887

HELL YEAH THATS WHAT IM TALKIN ABOUT!!!!!!! DROP THE KNOWLEDGE ON ME SON!!!!! YES AS SOON AS I DO EVERYTHING YOU GUYS SAY I WILL POST PICS AND EVERYTHING AND LET YOU KNOW FOR SURE!!!!!: icon_tup: BE ON THE LOOK OUT

31887

THAT FRIKEN BUSHING FOR THE ALTERNATOR IS GIVIN ME HELL TO PUT BACK ON IS there some sort of technique to get it put on???

31887

Ok you guys imma post up the pics of what ive done so far. because i checked and made sure the brake booster was hooked up properly and it was imma take a pic of that imma take a pic of the timing i got that set properly looks just like that pic beefhole posted and i connected the sensor for coolant temp. and then the car starts but it cannot idle still sounds like it has a vacuum leak or something im not sure im still workin on it. but imma shoot some video of the car so you can hear what it sounds like

Casual_John

iTrader: (8)

How are you making out with this problem? I have a similar situation. I start the car, it revs like crazy and won't back down. Is it a vacuum leak, or thottle stuck open or a bad sensor?