160-170whp question
160-170whp question
I have been searching. But most threads about NA "whp dreams" seem to be people trying to get 200+ who from an intake and removing the cat..
I'm just wondering how easy it'd be to reach my humble goal of 160-170whp with a mild street port, header back exhaust, and intake.. maybe a megasquirt a little later down the line. And would any noticeable torque be gained/lost are any certain rpm
Just looking for a quick answer, not trying to start a pissing match with anyone.. I'm doing this off of a tab which is making searching very difficult, I would usually just look through pages of crap, but at the moment that's impossible. Any ideas would be appreciated
I'm just wondering how easy it'd be to reach my humble goal of 160-170whp with a mild street port, header back exhaust, and intake.. maybe a megasquirt a little later down the line. And would any noticeable torque be gained/lost are any certain rpm
Just looking for a quick answer, not trying to start a pissing match with anyone.. I'm doing this off of a tab which is making searching very difficult, I would usually just look through pages of crap, but at the moment that's impossible. Any ideas would be appreciated
Replace the n/a exhaust diffusers on the rotor housings with the sleeves from a tii. Or spend the time cutting the wings off(have fun). They are there for noise levels, but are a serious restriction to exhaust flow. Below is a link to derekcat's car which made 157whp on stock ports and s4 n/a intake manifold. With S5 intake and a street port im sure you could hit your goal.
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/s4na-dyno-157rwhp-970927/
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/s4na-dyno-157rwhp-970927/
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
if you do intake/exhaust and some kind of fuel control on an S4 it should do 145-155rwhp, an S5 should be 155-165.
the variation is the condition of the engine, basically.
for fuel control a full standalone is best, but an SAFC will work too. the difference is that the full ecu will give a much broader power band, it'll be 10-15hp MORE than the stock ecu in the 4000-6000area.
the sleeves are maybe 3hp at this level, they aren't a big restriction.
to do more than that, you really need to have everything right, starting with the engine.
the variation is the condition of the engine, basically.
for fuel control a full standalone is best, but an SAFC will work too. the difference is that the full ecu will give a much broader power band, it'll be 10-15hp MORE than the stock ecu in the 4000-6000area.
the sleeves are maybe 3hp at this level, they aren't a big restriction.
to do more than that, you really need to have everything right, starting with the engine.
Fuel control, headers, intake, and a big street port should get you there...
FWIW, depending on your mileage you might need a rebuild if you really want maximum horsepower.
If you can get 200 HP out of a 4AG, I don't see why you couldn't get it out of a 13B with a new intake manifold or multiple throttles, balancing and clearancing for 9000 RPMs, and with a massive side port (no longer a street port). Plus the right exhaust.
But if you want torque and power, a turbo is always easier.
FWIW, depending on your mileage you might need a rebuild if you really want maximum horsepower.
If you can get 200 HP out of a 4AG, I don't see why you couldn't get it out of a 13B with a new intake manifold or multiple throttles, balancing and clearancing for 9000 RPMs, and with a massive side port (no longer a street port). Plus the right exhaust.
But if you want torque and power, a turbo is always easier.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Fuel control, headers, intake, and a big street port should get you there...
FWIW, depending on your mileage you might need a rebuild if you really want maximum horsepower.
If you can get 200 HP out of a 4AG, I don't see why you couldn't get it out of a 13B with a new intake manifold or multiple throttles, balancing and clearancing for 9000 RPMs, and with a massive side port (no longer a street port). Plus the right exhaust.
But if you want torque and power, a turbo is always easier.
FWIW, depending on your mileage you might need a rebuild if you really want maximum horsepower.
If you can get 200 HP out of a 4AG, I don't see why you couldn't get it out of a 13B with a new intake manifold or multiple throttles, balancing and clearancing for 9000 RPMs, and with a massive side port (no longer a street port). Plus the right exhaust.
But if you want torque and power, a turbo is always easier.
once you ditch those two, 200hp is much easier
Replace the n/a exhaust diffusers on the rotor housings with the sleeves from a tii. Or spend the time cutting the wings off(have fun). They are there for noise levels, but are a serious restriction to exhaust flow. Below is a link to derekcat's car which made 157whp on stock ports and s4 n/a intake manifold. With S5 intake and a street port im sure you could hit your goal.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=970927
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=970927
If you look at my dyno sheet there, you'll see the technician actually let off early on the first two runs which were tracking to hit 160HP
A little before Christmas I got a full blown official style compression test done and got 106, 102, 100 on the front rotor and 99, 110, 110 on the rear rotor. So it's Good-average condition.
I imagine that with full exhaust, Pineapple sleeve inserts, and a good [SAFC] tune or S5 intake [VDI opens at 5200RPMs 5th/6th ports at 3850RPMs] you'd hit 160RWHP..
Fuel control, headers, intake, and a big street port should get you there...
FWIW, depending on your mileage you might need a rebuild if you really want maximum horsepower.
If you can get 200 HP out of a 4AG, I don't see why you couldn't get it out of a 13B with a new intake manifold or multiple throttles, balancing and clearancing for 9000 RPMs, and with a massive side port (no longer a street port). Plus the right exhaust.
But if you want torque and power, a turbo is always easier.
FWIW, depending on your mileage you might need a rebuild if you really want maximum horsepower.
If you can get 200 HP out of a 4AG, I don't see why you couldn't get it out of a 13B with a new intake manifold or multiple throttles, balancing and clearancing for 9000 RPMs, and with a massive side port (no longer a street port). Plus the right exhaust.
But if you want torque and power, a turbo is always easier.
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That's up to you. Do you have to stick with the original engine? Or would you be better of swapping with a lower mileage JDM? Ideally you should rebuild it either way.
But generally speaking a used engine will usually be cheaper then putting a new turbo kit on a car.
If you do a full drivetrain swap it gets harder though...
But generally speaking a used engine will usually be cheaper then putting a new turbo kit on a car.
If you do a full drivetrain swap it gets harder though...
extend port, proper ecu, exhaust and injection perfection ida style intake http://www.injectionperfection.com.a...nt/view/22/70/ mmmmmmmmmmm sex!
Last edited by ben.farnath; Jan 13, 2012 at 01:31 AM.
no one has mentioned anything about freeing up hp instead of gaining. Like a lightweight flywheel, removing the clutch fan and using a e-fan, removing A/C, lighter drive shaft if your really intense
TONNES!!! like 1hp.
Lightened flywheel will net no power gain only acceleration will be quicker. but effort to move from stand still will be more. (same with drive shaft)
Removal of clutch fan is your 1hp if youre lucky
Removal of a/c. = nothing but weight loss unless you drive with it on all the time.
no power increase from these really at all just improved throttle response/acceleration
Lightened flywheel will net no power gain only acceleration will be quicker. but effort to move from stand still will be more. (same with drive shaft)
Removal of clutch fan is your 1hp if youre lucky
Removal of a/c. = nothing but weight loss unless you drive with it on all the time.
no power increase from these really at all just improved throttle response/acceleration
TONNES!!! like 1hp.
Lightened flywheel will net no power gain only acceleration will be quicker. but effort to move from stand still will be more. (same with drive shaft)
Removal of clutch fan is your 1hp if youre lucky
Removal of a/c. = nothing but weight loss unless you drive with it on all the time.
no power increase from these really at all just improved throttle response/acceleration
Lightened flywheel will net no power gain only acceleration will be quicker. but effort to move from stand still will be more. (same with drive shaft)
Removal of clutch fan is your 1hp if youre lucky
Removal of a/c. = nothing but weight loss unless you drive with it on all the time.
no power increase from these really at all just improved throttle response/acceleration
The engine will rev quicker and accelerate faster but you won't gain any power...
Sort of like taking off ankle weights when you're running on a treadmill.
But since you reach your power band quicker, you are able to reach your max HP quicker.
Sort of like taking off ankle weights when you're running on a treadmill.
But since you reach your power band quicker, you are able to reach your max HP quicker.
Taking the A/C on a street car is for idiots. Having no A/C sucks.
An E-Fan isn't going to be any more efficient than a stock fan. Every bit of juice the E-Fan needs it has to get from the alternator anyway, and you loose power through the laws of thermodynamics. The only reason to install an e-fan is for better cooling or because you need more room for something.
An E-Fan isn't going to be any more efficient than a stock fan. Every bit of juice the E-Fan needs it has to get from the alternator anyway, and you loose power through the laws of thermodynamics. The only reason to install an e-fan is for better cooling or because you need more room for something.
not necessarily. it frees up hp. it allows you to put more power to the ground more efficiently. just like lighter wheels. If you can make it more efficient for our power to make it from the crank to the ground you free up horsepower your hp may not increase on the dyno but your car will drive faster
Last edited by barnett87rx7; Jan 13, 2012 at 07:37 PM.






