OK, ever since I got my car running(rebuild) it has been doing this. I know for certain it is NOT A VACCUM LEAK.
I have checked the BAC and the air bypass solenoid. I unplugged the neutral switch and the clutch switch. When I unplugged those switches the revving got alot slower.

With the engine running I unplugged the BAC and the revs did not drop as they should, they revving just sort of leveled off at 1500 or so. with the BAC and air bypass solenoid unplugged when it starts it revs to 3000 then down to 2600, stays for a few seconds and then goes into the jumping.

Also, once it is warmed up i will VERY SLOWLY rev the engine. I can hear and feel something kick it up in incraments of about 300 rpm. Example- I will be revving it slowly and hit about say 1700 it will jump to about 200 then back down and it does this until at least 3500. This I have never had happen before nor have I ever heard of it.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

This may sound really stupid.
Buy about 2 feet of 8ga wire.
Remove the black wire that connects your bellhousing to your firewall.
Cut the 8ga wire to about the same length of the black wire (incl. terminals) and put terminals on the ends of the 8ga wire.
Replace the black wire with the 8ga wire.
Enjoy newfound smoothness.

 

At this point seing as i have tried just about everything else, i'll try that. Thanks

 

My car had a funky idle problem and a funky charging problem. Doing that (I just did it maybe half an hour ago) majorly helped. My voltmeter doesn't dip past 13, even with all the lights on, the heater on full blast, and my stereo up all the way.

 

Another thing that I forgot to mention as that the water temp thing( On the lower drivers side of the radiator) is broken, it has been broken as long as I have had the car. And only since the rebuild has the idle issue started.

 

I have the same surging and high idle- Mines from about 1400-1700. I added an extra ground to the battery and it helped alot. I still need to do the rest of the wiring though. Im not sure what it causing it, but mine does the same thing when reved slowly as well.

 

^

 

thermowax?

 

Hey man not sure if you've already tried this, but check on your TPS. It might need adjustemnt. Mine was somewhat doing the same as what you mentioned here. I made a homemade two bulb tester and saudered the connections together. Then it was just a matter of warming up the vehicle and pluggin in the tester in the three prong green on the passenger side and adjusting the screw counter or clockwise depending on what the tester bulbs indicates. You can get some more detail on this matter in the FSM...step by step. Hope this helps.

 

I am not sure about the thermowax, haven't checked that yet. But once the car is warmed up shouldnt the idle go down? I have had the car running for hours at a time with no change in the idle.

 

Sometimes it takes a throttle blip to get the idle to settle..

 

It would be very beneficial to do the tb mod and get rid of the bac and the air bypass solenoid if you can and adjust the throttle at the plate screw. If you removed the bac plug and it made no difference then it is not working, so remove it.

 

Yea... I have to pass emissions. Getting rid of that stuff is not an option.

 

WOOHOO figured it out!!!!

It was the cam adjusting screw and fast idle cam screw. Damn, the only thing i really didnt expect at all. I so happy!