So...
Im putting a rebuilt stock port s4 13b t2 into my fb. *Going 4-barrel (500cfm) sitting in RB intake. *Using a s5 exhaust manifold and rebuilt s5 turbo. *Plan is to install FMIC. *Using 12a front cover and 12a LOCKED dizzy.
- Where can i hook up my turbo's water lines? I was thinking the heater hoses (which is pressured and which for drain?)
- i'm already running full 3" exhaust WITH WIDEBAND.
- like i said... Using a locked 12a dizzy. Where should i set my timing and split for WOT performance? ( i can live with shitting "around town" performance)
- i plan on running 2.5" intercooler piping to a FMIC sitting inside a Mariah mode 1 front air dam.... Good flow!
- i will be using an electronic boost controller with two settings... Stock boost and HORSEPOWER boost. *Whatshould i set my max boost without blowing my engine?
- any idea what hp i should expect?

Thank you for sharing your experiance.
- Chris

 

You sound like you have your mind made up, but you realize a locked dizzy is really limiting performance right?

On the factory turbo the stock return line is part hard line and then it connects to an actual soft hose that runs to a nipple on the bottom of the water pump housing by the radiator hose. So you should be able to use the stock drain lines. For the coolant feed normally it comes from the LIM through the coolant port on the rotor housing. It sounds like that will be unavailable. There is a coolant nipple on the top of the rear iron that you could use. You will have to find a metric fitting for the coolant feed port on the turbo

- i'm already running full 3" exhaust WITH WIDEBAND.


- like i said... Using a locked 12a dizzy. Where should i set my timing and split for WOT performance? ( i can live with shitting "around town" performance)

Well here are the stock timing maps:




So, um, pick a number?

I like how you have an electronic boost controller with a carb and a licked dizzy... might as well go with an MBC (they have fancy dual-setting ones)

You will need to port the wastegate to keep bust under control. Assuming you have enough wastegate flow, the stock turbo can wind up to maybe 12-14psi max in the mid range but is going to fall off pretty good by redline.

210-240 probably depending on the dyno and the boost level. but a locked dizzy certainly help because you won't have the flexibility to tune timing precisely. On the stock ECU the crank angle sensor signal is used as a replacement for oldschool centrifugal advance, and the airflow meter signal replaces the vacuum advance

 

good info... *picking number*
lol

 

POST COMMENTS HERE:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/13bt-into-1st-gen-going-blow-through-945389/

 

Geez, he even got the recommendation to go EFI from the 1st gen section.
Might be because carbs suck.

 

Yeah.. Thanks for your comment.... Oh wait, it was 100% useless :-/

 

Having built and driven cars with locked dizzies, all I can do is offer my opinion that they are complete crap and should never be used. Unless it's just a drag car, in which case, lock at 15 degrees and 10 degrees split. But if this is a street car, why have a car that drives like crap 99% of the time for the 1% of time you are at WOT?

You can tap the water pump housing for a water feed line to the turbo, and use the nipple on the rear iron for a water drain.

Don't go more than 12 PSI on the stock turbo because at that point it is just blowing heat.

 

If I wanted completely fixed ignition timing I have a riding lawnmower for that...