So...
Im putting a rebuilt stock port s4 13b t2 into my fb. *Going 4-barrel (500cfm) sitting in RB intake. *Using a s5 exhaust manifold and rebuilt s5 turbo. *Plan is to install FMIC. *Using 12a front cover and 12a LOCKED dizzy.
- Where can i hook up my turbo's water lines? I was thinking the heater hoses (which is pressured and which for drain?)
- i'm already running full 3" exhaust WITH WIDEBAND.
- like i said... Using a locked 12a dizzy. Where should i set my timing and split for WOT performance? ( i can live with shitting "around town" performance)
- i plan on running 2.5" intercooler piping to a FMIC sitting inside a Mariah mode 1 front air dam.... Good flow!
- i will be using an electronic boost controller with two settings... Stock boost and HORSEPOWER boost. *Whatshould i set my max boost without blowing my engine?
- any idea what hp i should expect?

Thank you for sharing your experiance.
- Chris

 

For the water lines, the stock TII water pump housing should have some you could use. I don't think it matters much which way you install them.

Most people recommend the leading timing be set at 10 degrees, which is very conservative. I've run 15 degrees at 9 PSI with a Camden supercharger (draw-through, no intercooler). Up to you how far you want to push it. I personally use a 10 degree split.

Maximum boost depends entirely on how good you are at tuning and how far you want to push your luck. I understand the stock turbo starts to get really inefficient above about 13 PSI or so.

 

I'm using a 12a front cover and pump... and yeah, I suppose it doesnt really matter which way I plump the water lines... I think I will just "T" them into my heater lines.

 

Awesome project.

If you are going through that much work already, you might want to consider a megasquirt. It ends up being about the same price, but tuning is so much easier.


Isaac

 

I've already thought about this quite a bit Isaac... I'm a simple guy, the setup in going in a simple car and I want to keep it simple... simple enough?

Plus, I already have a few things going for me here:
1) I don't have a GSL-SE, so, I'm missing all the fuel system already
2) NO MATTER what I do, it's going to look ***'N AWESOME sitting in a 1st gen!!!
3) carbs are "my thing", tuning a carb will be easy especially with my wideband.

But, thanks for the input Isaac...

 

Update:
- Fixed stripped-out exhaust stud... pain in the A--
- A friend hooked me up with a modified 12a oil pan for my project.
- Figuring out oil drain for turbo. I was going to weld a return onto my oil pan like I did with my 12a, but, have decided to install a drain on the front cover.
- Decided to source turbo coolant from heater hose and coolant drain to other heater hose.
- Picking up t2 transmission this Saturday.

IN THE AIR:
- still need to order fuel injector block off kit for block
- still need to order gaskets... lots of gasket..
- still need to clean my engine bay and paint it
- still need to figure out which fuel pump/rising rate regulator I should go with
- still need to boost prep my Edelbrock carb
- still need to buy carb hat
- still need to source a 4-barrel carb 13b t2 intake manifold
- still need to mod t2 tranny to fit in FB
- need to measure for FMIC... GO BIG OR GO HOME!!

Tonight I plan on doing:
- resolve oil drain "situation"
- clean oil pan
- clean front cover
- clean block
- order PARTS :smile: ... gaskets, fuel injector block off kit, more gaskets, Racing Beat intake manifold, more gaskets.
- maybe not tonight, but, sometime this weekend would like to get carb boost prepped.

 

this is how i ran my coolant lines.



i am using a s4 n/a water pump housing. i hope this helps.......

 

- Front cover turbo oil drain made... woot!!!
- Front cover cleaned.. freak'n nasty
- Ordered gaskets and parts:
. - EFI block off plate
. - Intake gasket
. - Front cover gasket
. - Water pump housing to block gasket
. - Water pump to housing gasket
. - Oil pan gasket
. - Turbo oil drain pipe gasket
. - Intake o-rings
. - Holley intake manifold for Turbo 2

OK... I need a drink now...

 

OK... assuming I go Holley... what size carb????

 

Hey I noticed you said you're already running a wideband in your exhaust? I am also running a wideband in my exhaust on my stock 12a with stock exhaust. It's really weird because it jumps around a lot. I'm not sure if it's the rotary doing this, the carb or maybe a bad ground? How does yours act?

 

At idle it will probably jump around a big.. it should be fairly consistant at WOT assuming you have adequit fueling

 

Hmm, must be a bad ground then. I have the XD-15 gauge and controller from innovative.
Anyways, sorry for thread jacking, but thanks for answering my question! Good luck on your swap!

 

For the water lines to and from the turbo, something I just read recently suggested that if the turbo CHRA is rotated slightly, the flow direction must enter at the lower nipple and exit at the higher one. Something about allowing air bubbles to escape more easily.

 

Just so you know, you can't boost prep an Edlebrock, but you can a Holley. 450 CFM would be ideal for blowthrough.

 

Sorry, but wrong! Yes you can, and it is sooooo easy too..

 

Here's the link

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=136075.0

 

Not to cause an arguement, but I'll rephrase what I said. I wouldn't recommend trying to use a metering rod carb for blowthrough. There is a reason 98% of people do not use them.

 

On the subject of the front cover gasket... Please read this so you don't have a major oil pressure problem

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

basically, you need to double check and make sure you have the correct configuration for your front cover o-ring and gasket or you will have low oil pressure. The casting for the o-ring changed depending on the production date of the front iron.

Also, I want to post this for the benefit of everyone else in this thread. Here are the stock timing maps from an s4 T2 engine, programmed into the stock ECU (credit to RotaryRocket88):





x axis is rpm and y axis load. We don't know exactly how load is calculated, but it is based on the airflow signal at a given rpm (more airflow = less advance). So when the question of running a locked dizzy comes up, you can see that you are forced to make many compromises compared to the electronic spark advance in Mazda's EFI system for the FC.

 

Hmmm... Good info on o-ring.. Thanks

 

Vacuum holds the metering rod down, it releases and increases fuel flow under load from either loss of vacuum or boost, so it does work well. If I was to restrict a blow through to say 10-12 psi an edelbrock would be a cheap and very effective solution.

For more boost, I would run a professionally prepared holley from someone like csu, but at the price you would have to pay, you're not far off from buying a standalone.

 

im running a stick port 12a witha holley 600 at 3 psi of boost, afrs are 13's and i have 88 jets in the secondarys. you may want to re think your carb sizing

 

You don't need a big carb with a blowthrough set up. Bad83 has great experiences using a nikki on a blowthrough.