13b Timing?
the holes are offset, the pulley can only bolt on one way, if you spin the pulley to the next bolt hole you will see what i mean because the other 3 will not line up.
so long as you can bolt all 4 bolts through that pulley then it is correct.
so long as you can bolt all 4 bolts through that pulley then it is correct.
See that is the thing that is not stated anywhere. Nobody said the pulleys could only go in one way and the timing marks would be in the correct position. Everthing just said to line up the ping mark on the CAS. Well I spent about two hours searching. I found out how to find TDC. I thought I had just gotten luck becuase the 5 and 20 degree mark just so happentobe right there.
Here is the procedure I found:
Remove both rear rotor spark plugs.
Rotate the crank until you can see an apex seal (tip of the rotor) in the trailing spark hole. The trailing plug hole is restricted, making the seal somewhat difficult to see. Use a flexible light and a mirror. When the seal is seen, mark the crank.
Rotate the crank until you see the same apex seal in the leading spark plug hole. This plug hole is not restricted, which makes it easy to see the seal. Mark the crank.
Halfway between your two marks is TDC for the front rotor (#1) rotor.
Here is the procedure I found:
Remove both rear rotor spark plugs.
Rotate the crank until you can see an apex seal (tip of the rotor) in the trailing spark hole. The trailing plug hole is restricted, making the seal somewhat difficult to see. Use a flexible light and a mirror. When the seal is seen, mark the crank.
Rotate the crank until you see the same apex seal in the leading spark plug hole. This plug hole is not restricted, which makes it easy to see the seal. Mark the crank.
Halfway between your two marks is TDC for the front rotor (#1) rotor.
TDC is a misleading statement, people refer to the leading and trailing marks as TDC, they ARE NOT Top Dead Center marks, they are 20 and 5 degree marks so disregard when they say to line it up at TDC. align the yellow mark (right hand mark) to the pointer then center the CAS marks and lower the CAS into the cover, it is easier to hold the shaft in place by removing the black cover and watching/holding the shaft while lowering it, it will spin slightly clockwise when it meshes with the timing gear though, then line it up around the middle of it's slot and retime it after you get it running well enough to idle at 750 RPMs.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Feb 14, 2005 at 01:04 AM.
Originally Posted by Adam
i never got this much help when i first got my rx7. i didnt know how to time it and no one wanted to tell me, i figured out how easy it was by myself! :P racest bastereds
;p
Karack, The two marks on the pulley are not TDC they are 5 and 20 degrees. You know that, What I am saying that if you do the steps I mentioned and you make the two new marks........ half way between the two new marks is TDC. I did it and was impressed with my results. And yes the halfway between mark was real close to what I would call TDC and 5 and 20 degrees away from the other factory marks. B4 I found out about the offset crank holes I used it to confirm that the pulley with the factory marks was in fact in the right position. (can't be in the wrong position, but I didn't know that at the time)
Frankenstein engine timing?
Just put together a frankenstein engine and once I can put it back in the car I'm not sure what I'd need to do to time it. I had an s4 n/a, and s5 n/a and then I found turbo irons so now I have tii irons with n/a(will identify later) housings,s4 rotors/e-shaft, an s5 n/a front cover and s4 cas slapped together. I have an s4 and s5 main pulley and not sure which I need to use.
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