S4 Vert

Ok, I THINK I have it right, I studied the avdice from fellow members along with the electrical diagrams recommended. I have an S4 88' convertable, so far I managed to remove the Br/R and B wires from the TII X15 EM harness and installed the B/W and W/B wires for the alternator in the plugs of the Br/R and B wires I pulled from the X15 EM harness.

My next wire transplants will be for the water tempurature gauge. This is what I have gathered from studying the wire diagram. Remove the Y/W wire from the TII X15 EM Harness and relocate it to the TII X16 EM harness where the LG/B wire is located. Is that correct?

My next question is for the power steering, do I have to remove the wire in order to avoid the steering retarding the timing to the knock control box? I am using a N332 ECU, and a full S4 13B T wire harness. .

This is my first swap,nall help is will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Depinning 1R is only necessary if using an NA EM harness. Since you're using a TII EM harness, you don't have to do that. You can set up a knock control box instead.

Correction: After looking at the wiring diagrams to assist with the questions below, The Front harness connects to pin 1R, so it would still need to be depinned on a car with NA front harness and TII EM harness.

S4 Vert

Ok great,

I clicked on the link in your message body for "turbo swap faq" and in the original thread it says "There's another wire that on a TII goes to a fuel pump resistor but not on a NA so disable that wire too." I do have the fuel pump resistor. Should I disconnect it? If so, at the electrical connectors where the connector meets the fuel pump resistor? Or disconnect it at the F-08 opening circuit relay box

For the knock control box, the original thread says "The knock system works about the time you start to here big noises and you have realized to let off the throttle (its pretty useless and leave out that system in your swap)". Is this correct for my swap application? If not, do I wire the L/G wire to the empty plug on the N/A X15 front harness, and leave the Y/W wire in it's current plug on the TII X15 EM harness?

I also noticed the the Y/W wire for the water temp gauge on the TII X15 EM harness needs to be relocated in place of the Lg/B wire on the TII X16 EM harness in order to get the water temp gauge work with the N/A X16 front harness. Should I perform that wire swap? If not, what effect will the Lg/B wire have on the Y/B wire for the water temp gauge?

I have been stuck at this part of the swap, because it seems like a wire will be left without power if I perform either of the wire swaps. However after this, I will be able to move forward, put some gas in the tank, charge my battery and turn the engine over for the first time .

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Why are you trying to use a TII harness when the factory S4 n/a harness makes the swap so much easier?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Your S4 NA front harness isn't set up to use the fuel pump resistor/relay, and you don't want it anyway. It's a failure point that can leave the fuel pump under powered. Nothing to do here.

The knock box is little use, but it wouldn't be that hard to set up if you're using a TII EM harness.

If you have the TII EM harness, you'll have plug EM-27 for the knock box (pg. 50-26). The LG wire on the knock box plug/EM harness side needs to connect to pin 1R on the ECU, which is LG/B on an NA front harness. How you connect these is up to you. On a TII, it goes through FEM-02 (aka X-16).

By the way, the "X" names apparently come from an early version of the FSM, while the '88 version names everything by the harness-to-harness connections.

I did not look at the wire colors on this one, but in general it's a very bad idea to connect random things together. If the wire you connect has the wrong polarity or insufficient resistance, it can ruin the gauge.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Just wondering if you absolutely want the stock Water temp gauge to be functional.
I'd opt for a "real Temp gauge".
I did the TII swap with N/A harness,and I got the stock gauge,but I don't trust it.My eyes are always on the Aftermarket Digital.

S4 Vert

This is my first swap, I did not know that the stock na harness would work. I sold the old engine with the harness. I should have done research before I started my swap.

S4 Vert

Thank you very much, that makes so much sence, I will delete the fuel pump resistor. I will figure out the best way to wire the knock control box.

Thanks again.

S4 Vert

I was thinking to upgrade to an aftermarket water temp gauge, maybe I will do that.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Ah i see, well if you didn't know then i understand. And certainly get an aftermarket temp gauge, the stocker is garbage. Went aftermarket on both my fc's. I actually consider that the first mod everyone should do.

S4 Vert

I have not removed any wires just yet, I want to make sure I make my information correct first.

I remove the N/A LG/B F-31 terminal R wire from it's plug and relocate the L/G wire from the TII FEM-02 EM harness and install it in the N/A F-31 front R terminal, correct? Or do I install a new wire from the N/A F-31 terminal R to the empty plug on the N/A front FEM-02 harness to mate with the L/G wire in the TII FEM-02 EM harness?

For the N/A LG/B wire that I removed from the front N/A F-31 harness. Do I remove the TII LG/B wire from the FEM-02 EM harness and connect it directly to the N/A LG/B wire ?

I know for you experienced members this is easy, but for a novice like me this is somewhat confusing , so my apologies for all the questions.

S4 Vert

Ok, I'll buy one before I even consider driving my RX7, water temp is important.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The S5 gauge is pretty much just a warning light, but the S4 one is actually linear and measures approx. 150-250 degrees.


Your knock box plugs into the TII EM harness via a LG wire. This LG wire runs to the EM harness connector of FEM-02, but the NA Front harness connector has an open slot here. There's no wire, so you can put a spade connector on a new wire. Run this new wire to Pin 1R on the Front harness to ECU connector after removing the LG/B wire that's already there. Now the knock box can talk to the ECU.

S4 Vert

Thank you very much!

And thanks for explaining the difference between the S4 and S5 water temp gauges, I'll wire my water temp gauge also.

S4 Vert

After failing to fire up my engine, I reconnected the fuel pump resistor and primed the fule pump. At the first turn of the key the engine fired right up!!

Now I have to tow it to the muffler shop to have a custom dowm pipe made to make it official.

DSCI1491 - YouTube

I also wired the Y/W to Y/B, Lg/B to Lg/B and wired the Lg to the R pin on the ECU.

Wild Bill Massey

iTrader: (2)

Need a little help, as I have done a crap load of S5 NA to Turbo swaps, but this is my first S4 NA to Turbo swap.

This is going into a 88 Vert, and the motor is a 87 as the harness has a plug for the injector resistor, I added a resistor pack since the vert did not have one.

The T2 Harness was already connected to the engine, so I used it for the swap instead of taking the top end apart to switch out harnesses.

I plugged in the knock box and I am using a 332 ecu. I have done no other wiring, just looking for the engine to start. I have also not wired up 5th gear switch or reverse switch yet.

I noticed that the 88 Vert does not have a Fuel Pump Relay plug, but FSM shows 87-88 Turbo models have them. Fuel pump does pump though when bridging the yellow test plug. Also have fuel pump running when pushing the vane on the Air Flow Meter when yellow plug not jumped. I also show spark jumping from the ignitor to plug wire when disconnected, so I have spark.

I had to add a CAS to the engine, so timing is not set, but I have tried different positions.

Car will turn over, but will not start, or even attempt to start. Any suggestions?

S4 Vert

To be honest this was my first RE swap, and it was not that easy for me. I will try to help you the best I can.

It seems like you might need to have your crank angle sensor dialed in if you have been trying to set it, the timming may be off now.

Check the 80 amp main fuse in the engine compartment, and the 7.5 main fuse in the fuse panel under the dash. Check the ECU fuse and injection fuse too, make sure you have enough gas in the gas tank.

Once I connected my resistor solinoid, primed my fuel pump, and changed a few fuses my engine fired right up.

Let me if any of that helped.

Wild Bill Massey

iTrader: (2)

She finally fired up. Truthfully I think it was just junk in the motor, as it has been sitting here in the shop for 6 or 7 years. I did however took the uim off and made sure all the injectors were spraying, and I ended up putting new injector plugs on.It still did not fire right away though. I just hooked my truck up to the battery and cranked on it for an hour, and it finally came to life. Probably was a rats nest inside. Lol

S4 Vert

Damn! Yeah that motor has been sitting for a while man! Glad you finally got it to fire up, it's best you go thru everything, especially the hoses and check the fuel pulsation dampner.

What are your plans? Do you have any pictures, or video?

rotarydude

iTrader: (2)

Here is the build thread on this specific car. Its an idea that I have had for a few years and have been collecting the parts from dead 10AEs to make it happen. Just happens that the timing is right to do it now. The donor 10AE was really dead we pulled her from a junkyard but most of the original 10AE parts were still there.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...build-1023936/

Thanks to Bill for working on this one for me.

S4 Vert

Nice!! Thanks for sharing the link. That is a serious build and keeping it original with a twist.

S4 Vert

I noticed in your post you said you hooked up the 5th gear switch. When I drive on the freeway in 5th gear my shift light comes on, and blinks. The first time it happened I actually thought I was in 4th gear still and tried to up shift into 5th gear ha ha.

Is there a wire for the shift light, or 5th gear that I need to wire, or move in the harness?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

If you have a jspec transmission, there is no 5th gear switch (it's just a reverse switch) to send a signal to the ECU. As a result, the shift up light will come on in 5th gear. Also, if the engine is using US-spec emissions equipment, the split air solenoid will never activate (normally only used in 5th).

You can source a 5th/reverse switch to replace the reverse switch, or ignore it. I don't even notice when mine does it anymore.

S4 Vert

Ah. Thank you for the explaination.

I have the stock S4 na transmission, and I'm using the US emissions S4 TII harness. If it doesn't affect the performance I'll just ignore it.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

If your transmission is NA, you should have the 4-pin 5th/reverse switch. The wires are there on the NA engine harness, but you may have to modify the connector.