hey i know that everyone is probably tired o talking about this subject. ive searched and searched all i came up with is dont do but i already have the front clip. from what i read there are problems with mounts i solved that but not to sure how to go about the wire harness.and tranny my friend had told me there are two ways i can go cut the harness or use the rew harness and ecu not to sure also the tranny from my understanding ones a pull and ones a push. if i use my 13b t2 trans i think i have to change flywheel and counter weight not too sure would appreciate any help or advice thanks (and im on the island of guam and no one locally even has a clue)

 

i think the best way is to use the Ecu and Harness from the Front Clip...the ECU needs to match with the Engine i presume..

 

thats kinda what i thought but is there any one out there who has done it i keep looking around and there is nothing much about it just its to hard and itll cost too much money if any one has done can you help me im wondering about the tranny and drive shaft

 

Engine mounts to stock FC tranny no problem - ergo, driveshaft is not a problem.

We use Haltechs to control motor swaps.



-Ted

 

You should in my opinion match the tranny + drive shaft ot the engine, particularly if its a very different one like the REW series, unless you are a skilled fabricator which, from the fact that you are asking, I would be inclined to doubt.

Definitely match your ECU + harness to the engine. This is imperative with your setup. You have no other option unless you run standalone or want to custom build your own wiring harness identical to the stock one.

Good luck with the project. I've wanted to do this myself but settled for an S5 TII engine instead. I'm no fabricator by any means.

 

Or... like REted said, you don't need to worry about the tranny at all. But the electronics, yes. I remain committed to that answer.

 

ahh its not really that hard, as long as you jack the tranny (fc) one up in place where its supposed to be, then bolt it on to the cross member so the tranny and drive shaft are in the right places, then make a crossmember for the motor its self, mount it to that and boom.. all thats solved. I recomend getting a haltech or other ems for this swap as i have. It makes life alot simpler.

-Chris

 

I agree on the ECU issue. Going aftermarket would make things alot easier. It'd be a ***** of a job to pull apart the FD ECU loom (far more complex than ours) and intergrate the stuff you need from that with the stuff in the FC loom you need to keep. Plus you'd need to to a bunch of work to fool the FD ECU into thinking it isn't missing all the stuff you don't need/have.

 

hey thanks for all the advice im definetly going to use a haltec for the ems. in regaurds to the tranny um so you can use the fc tranny and drive shaft as it is or i do you have to change any thing like flywheel or clutch cylinder slave. the car is only going to be used for drifting and maybe drag racing so all i want is the engine to be wired up im not worried about the lighs and all that extra stuff . im going to take pics of it and post them soon thanks tony

does any one have quarter mile times with this swap

 

You're going to need a Kouki 1989-1991 FC3S stock flywheel or a stock FC3S auto counterweight + FC3S aftermarket lightened flywheel - you need the FC parts so that it mates properly with the stock FC starter.  The stock FC starter will not work with the stock FD flywheel and clutch system unless serious custom work - or did you luck out it's an automatic with a flex plate?

Yes, you use all the stock FC clutch hydraulics.



-Ted

 

hey thanks alot ted ive been lookin around and no one answered it well you you pretty much said it all very clarly thanks alot . i was going to tap the engine and use the stock fc engine mounts but now im going to make my own cradle for it . just ordered my haltech and ill get started thanks for the help.

tony

 

I'm currently doing the conversion. Engine specs are as follows, not an easy job, but in my eyes a very unique and hopefully pleasing end result:

1999 RX7 Series 8 engine with only 322 kms on it.

This engine/box combination was removed from a 1999 model RX7 which was purchased brand-new and on the drive home (down the Yokohama freeway) was written-off by a driver who didn't know how to handle his new ride !!

WORK DONE:
Completed stripped down and checked. Apex Seals replaced with Hurley Enginering 2 mm race seals with double race springs, and rebuilt. Ports cleaned up but not extensively ported (ie standard). Upper Inlet Manifold, HPC coated. Aftermarket engine dump pipe (3 inch), HPC extreme coated. Centre plate modified to allow the engine to bolt into S4/S5 with factory engine mounts. The passengers side was built up using a high nickel spray welding technique to add a boss for the S4/5 mount to bolt to. The drivers side was drilled and tapped. A slightly modified S4/S5 factory sump is utilised (front lip corners modified) and now uses factory S4/S5 sump gasket. All three plates (front, centre and rear) have been re-nitried and lap ground to within 0.5 thou.

Gearbox is Series 8 with a Series 5 rear extension housing to allow fitment into S4/S5 cross member. Minor modification included extending the appropriate selector rod to activate the reverse gear switch in the S4/S5 extension housing. Clutch master/slave hydraulic line all modified.

To allow the engine to be installed requires the power steering lines to be modified. The S8 thermostat housing has been shortened to allow it to fit under the S4/S5 bonnet line.

On top of this, a custom FMIC has been made, big fuel system, big Turbo and Wastegate setup is to be installed.

Progress shots can be viewed at the following web site.

http://members.dodo.net.au/trex07/index.htm