13b rew swap
12-23-04, 10:33 AM
#3
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here are your options..
1) You have to put the motor and trans in the car and suspend it by an engine hoist on the block and then put the trans mount in place. once you have the trans mounted and the engine sitting at the correct level.... you will have to fabricate mounting pylons for the REW mounts to attach to the fram rails on the TII IE..... you'd better be good with a MIG welder and have the ability to cut thick steel. you could use box steel or assemble them out of peices cut from flat steel. Once you get the pylons correct, then you'll have to bolt them up to the motor mounts and scribe the lines on the frame... then pull the motor and trans out and weld the new mounting points to the frame rails.
2) You can drill and tap the center iron to accept FC mounts and use an FC oilpan.. but you have to us the FC front cover as well... This has been done.. but i'm not sure what else has to be changed on the motor to make it work (CAS instead of REW Triggers.... WP housing... Dunno)
I'm going to put an REW in the TII shell i have... Right now, i'm thinking I'll fab up the new mounting positions being that I have the time... BUT there is one more thing to consider... FD mounts themselves cost about 5X what FC mounts cost.....
The mounts that Sppedmachine sells are the mounts for a 13bt/20b swap... won't work with the REW.....
I DID.. see a site with premade REW mounting pylons for the FC on it at one time... but i'll be damns if i can find it now
1) You have to put the motor and trans in the car and suspend it by an engine hoist on the block and then put the trans mount in place. once you have the trans mounted and the engine sitting at the correct level.... you will have to fabricate mounting pylons for the REW mounts to attach to the fram rails on the TII IE..... you'd better be good with a MIG welder and have the ability to cut thick steel. you could use box steel or assemble them out of peices cut from flat steel. Once you get the pylons correct, then you'll have to bolt them up to the motor mounts and scribe the lines on the frame... then pull the motor and trans out and weld the new mounting points to the frame rails.
2) You can drill and tap the center iron to accept FC mounts and use an FC oilpan.. but you have to us the FC front cover as well... This has been done.. but i'm not sure what else has to be changed on the motor to make it work (CAS instead of REW Triggers.... WP housing... Dunno)
I'm going to put an REW in the TII shell i have... Right now, i'm thinking I'll fab up the new mounting positions being that I have the time... BUT there is one more thing to consider... FD mounts themselves cost about 5X what FC mounts cost.....
The mounts that Sppedmachine sells are the mounts for a 13bt/20b swap... won't work with the REW.....
I DID.. see a site with premade REW mounting pylons for the FC on it at one time... but i'll be damns if i can find it now
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 12-23-04 at 10:46 AM.
12-23-04, 03:04 PM
#6
Lives on the Forum
Weld in a custom crossmember yourself - it should be pretty straight-forward.
All the "prefab" ones I've seen were crap.
The one big beef about those adapter "arms" that go from the stock FD engine mount to the FC mount point on the engine cradle / K-member is that these things are bad.
Why are they bad?
Look at how the stock engine mounts are designed.
Engine mounts are designed to be mounted directly under the engine.
This design keeps engine load directly vertically.
Those engine mounts that bolt onto the stock FD engine mounts and then diagonally run to the mount point on the FC chassis - this is a big no-no.
You end up putting a twisting motion on the engine mounts, and this will quickly kill them.
As YearsOfDecay mentioned, FD engine mounts are BIG bucks - they are liquid filled.
Last time I checked, one side was $400 - $500!
One of the big import shops in Cali was making adapter arms like this, and I friend wanted to use them for his FC.
I pointed out the bad design, and he did not end up buying them.
I want to know how long these things take to kill the FD engine mounts.
I've seen another well-known member using them, and it scares me...
To me, the FD engine swap is a waste of time.
A 20B engine swap will cost almost the same, and you get more power out of the 20B in the long run.
Hell, a Cosmo 13B-RE is cheaper...
-Ted
All the "prefab" ones I've seen were crap.
The one big beef about those adapter "arms" that go from the stock FD engine mount to the FC mount point on the engine cradle / K-member is that these things are bad.
Why are they bad?
Look at how the stock engine mounts are designed.
Engine mounts are designed to be mounted directly under the engine.
This design keeps engine load directly vertically.
Those engine mounts that bolt onto the stock FD engine mounts and then diagonally run to the mount point on the FC chassis - this is a big no-no.
You end up putting a twisting motion on the engine mounts, and this will quickly kill them.
As YearsOfDecay mentioned, FD engine mounts are BIG bucks - they are liquid filled.
Last time I checked, one side was $400 - $500!
One of the big import shops in Cali was making adapter arms like this, and I friend wanted to use them for his FC.
I pointed out the bad design, and he did not end up buying them.
I want to know how long these things take to kill the FD engine mounts.
I've seen another well-known member using them, and it scares me...
To me, the FD engine swap is a waste of time.
A 20B engine swap will cost almost the same, and you get more power out of the 20B in the long run.
Hell, a Cosmo 13B-RE is cheaper...
-Ted
12-24-04, 12:27 AM
#7
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As AronCak mentiond dont fabricate or make anything yourself.... go to www.speedmachineperformance.com and click on FC3S.org they have mounts for and FC the fits 13B-Rew and 20B Cosmo... Im buyin them soon too and doing a 13B-Rew swap... your friend should post pics and videos on how the car is running
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12-24-04, 12:29 AM
#8
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If your near the NJ area my friend is selling a 94 rx7 tiwn turbo 53K miles complete just kit hard on the driver fender and hes has oneway insurance and demages are over 10k so hes selling for 4000-4500
12-24-04, 12:35 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by LookThatsMe
As AronCak mentiond dont fabricate or make anything yourself.... go to www.speedmachineperformance.com and click on FC3S.org they have mounts for and FC the fits 13B-Rew and 20B Cosmo... Im buyin them soon too and doing a 13B-Rew swap... your friend should post pics and videos on how the car is running
EDIT: Actually, they are out of stock, and were scheduled to be back in stock 20 days ago. So who knows when they will be available again.
12-24-04, 12:46 AM
#10
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Yes MRX Rotary is right i didnt payattention to that part i just read the part that said:
These mounts allow the installation of the 13B-RE and 20B engine with the stock twin turbo's in the FC chassis mounted to a 13B turbo transmission. As you can see in the pictures, the engine sits level when installed, and even clears the hood with the stock manifolds and intake arms still in place!
These mounts allow the installation of the 13B-RE and 20B engine with the stock twin turbo's in the FC chassis mounted to a 13B turbo transmission. As you can see in the pictures, the engine sits level when installed, and even clears the hood with the stock manifolds and intake arms still in place!
12-24-04, 09:34 AM
#11
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
That's for the RE engine 
I am contemplating a REW in the future, if its a matter of oil pan and front cover issue!
I am contemplating a REW in the future, if its a matter of oil pan and front cover issue!
Oops...Sorry about that.
12-24-04, 10:15 AM
#12
Originally Posted by RETed
Weld in a custom crossmember yourself - it should be pretty straight-forward.
All the "prefab" ones I've seen were crap.
The one big beef about those adapter "arms" that go from the stock FD engine mount to the FC mount point on the engine cradle / K-member is that these things are bad.
Why are they bad?
Look at how the stock engine mounts are designed.
Engine mounts are designed to be mounted directly under the engine.
This design keeps engine load directly vertically.
Those engine mounts that bolt onto the stock FD engine mounts and then diagonally run to the mount point on the FC chassis - this is a big no-no.
You end up putting a twisting motion on the engine mounts, and this will quickly kill them.
As YearsOfDecay mentioned, FD engine mounts are BIG bucks - they are liquid filled.
Last time I checked, one side was $400 - $500!
All the "prefab" ones I've seen were crap.
The one big beef about those adapter "arms" that go from the stock FD engine mount to the FC mount point on the engine cradle / K-member is that these things are bad.
Why are they bad?
Look at how the stock engine mounts are designed.
Engine mounts are designed to be mounted directly under the engine.
This design keeps engine load directly vertically.
Those engine mounts that bolt onto the stock FD engine mounts and then diagonally run to the mount point on the FC chassis - this is a big no-no.
You end up putting a twisting motion on the engine mounts, and this will quickly kill them.
As YearsOfDecay mentioned, FD engine mounts are BIG bucks - they are liquid filled.
Last time I checked, one side was $400 - $500!
Originally Posted by RETed
To me, the FD engine swap is a waste of time.
A 20B engine swap will cost almost the same, and you get more power out of the 20B in the long run.
Hell, a Cosmo 13B-RE is cheaper...
-Ted
I know you can scout the net, BUT I would rather go with something that I can walk to the dealer and get them, if everything else fails.
NOW how about this, a stock complete REW engine, modify its front cover so that it can be mounted like the old 12A\13B?
12-24-04, 01:52 PM
#13
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Ok, Thanks for all the info guys, I was just wondering if anyone made them specifically for this swap or not. Im pretty good with the TIG and fabbing shouldnt be a problem but wanted to be sure there wasnt an easier way...
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