slo

iTrader: (1)

I am having a hell of a time zeroing the timing on my 13b-re haltech E8 combo. The problem is my timing dosen't zero untill it gets to a trigger angle of around 28 degrees. The CAS wired and installed properly. It should zero with a trigger angle of around 65 degrees.

I have posted on this in the haltech forum, but this question is more general for JDM engines.

I used the OE NA mazda waterpump, pullies and CAS. In searching I found this post from ReTed (quoted below).

So the question is, why what is the difference between the timing marks on JDM vs US engines, and is this also true for the 13b-RE.

RETed

It sounds like you're quoting settings for an E6K.
The E8 runs a newer RA8 reluctor, which runs vastly different ignition settings.
I think I run 9 tooth offset with like a 90-degree angle offset on my E8.

DON'T look at other people's ignition settings.
You SHOULD be setting your ignition with a timing gun.

I'm pretty sure all the pulleys are marked the same - leading = -5 and trailing = -20.


-Ted

slo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply Ted.

I have been using a timing gun, its just than when I get so far off from what I am expecing to see I am second guessing myself. I even swiched out to annother known good CAS .

Just curios, do you use the mazda factory method of stabbing the CAS, or a method such as hitmans?

Thanks,,

RETed

I use factory method.
The E8 settings don't always match.
Mine is like 9 tooth, 90-degree offset.

Another SC FC is running like 10 tooth, 80-degree offset.

Always verify with the timing gun.


-Ted

CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

I'm not very familar with timing. What degree of timing should I be seeing when idle and about what should I see while boosting/driving in non boost? I am running with a E6K

slo

iTrader: (1)

You should see whatever value is in your timing map for a given load and RPM condition.