I have a 86 Base rite now. im faced with the choice of rebuilding the engine or going with my plans of swapping in a 13B-RE since my car has a blown seal. Ive made myself a lil list of TII parts i need in order for the car to handle the extra power. i just wanted to know if my list was fairly complete or if i needed to add some more parts, here what i have so far...

13B-RE Engine
13B-RE Wiring Harness
13B-RE Automatic Transmission Counterweight

S4 TII Tranny
S4 TII Driveshaft
S4 TII Driferential/LSD
S4 TII Halfshafts
S4 TII Starter

Engine Mounts
Downpipe
Front Mount Intercooler
Haltech E6X (optional)
New or modded hood

 

Please read here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/swap.html

and please search before posting next time

 

theres alot of little nit picky stuff to concider in the price of the project also that the fc3spro.com doesnt cover. Im in the middle of the swap my self and theres a lot of little thing like gaskets, thermostat, silicone vacuum line, block off plates, rtv, and degreaser just to name a few thing. They may not sound like much but it does add up. If you do decide to do it feel free to contact me if you need some help or anything.

 

ive spent 2 days searching through forums and different sites. that was one of the first places that i looked... how u think i came up with my current list

 

how much have you spent so far on the swap? and how long have u spent on the swap?

my msn is dvi13@hotmail.com if u wanna add me that would b koo too

 

ECU is a must - either a Haltech or Microtech. I chose Microtech myself for simplicity.

There are a lot of hidden costs and fabrication so just be prepared.

Good luck!

PM if you have any questions.

 

I chose MT also. You'll pretty much have to have a standalone since you're going into an NA car. You really won't need the RE harness, except for maybe cutting the plugs off and splicing into your standalone harness.

Something to consider -- I THINK you can use the Turbo II ECU, but it would probably require the turbo ii harness and tranny also. A lot of people will recommend the turbo tranny, but if you're going mild out of the box, you'll probably be okay w/ the NA drivetrain. Either way, I'd definitely recommend an upgraded clutch. If you're budget minded and don't need 400hp+ in your first shot, I think you can probably avoid the T2 drivetrain until you upgrade your HP output. The RE engine you buy should have the counterweight with it. If it doesn't, I would avoid the purchase unless you can source the counterweight separately AHEAD of time. I think they're hard to come by though unless bought w/ the engine.

RotaryExperimental is right -- it will be all the nickel & dime stuff that will kill you. Figure out all of the possible purchases you'll have to make, budget it out, and then add $1000 for all the other stuff you didn't think of. Tools, rags, cleaner, gaskets, nuts & bolts, stuff you break, etc.

Something you didn't list... are you planning on going single? You can run the twins, but if you're considering it, I'd highly recommend converting to non-sequential. I'm not sure how much of a problem/hassle that is -- so I'd probably recommend going single even over that. There's a lot of weight and crap that has to be in place for the twins to work, and I don't think you'll be satisfied w/ the results. Plus it just looks 'messy' when you have to account for the extra piping, vacuum hoses, etc. If you convert to single, then add manifold, turbo, wastegate, and BOV to your list.

 

ive never really had exposure to standalones ... how hard is it to install and program it?

 

I would just buy Tony's car off of teamfc3s.org, you would actually spen less and have a hell of alot faster car..

 

so if my plans were to just stay with a real low power setup untill i can afford TII parts, what are some of the main parts i would need. rite now im thinkin of a list like this.

13B-RE
modded hood to hold twin turbos
microtech
engine mounts
complete exhaust

the main thing is juist to get it on the street spending as little money as possible. but not to get so cheap that it would actually b dangerous. i know that the n/a drivetrain is only good to about 200hp so of course i wont b really driving the car hard untill the swap is 100% complete

 

You probably wouldn't have to do much about the hood except massage the underside braces a bit. I haven't actually tried to fit one w/ the stock turbos on though, so don't take my word for it. I can't imagine it would be any higher than the UIM though and that should only require minor massaging.

You'll probably still want to plan on getting an aftermarket clutch. I opted to get a lightweight flywheel at the same time.

You're missing one other major component that I can think of off the top of my head. Intercooler.
No matter how you do it, single or stock twins, you'll have to get an IC and the piping to support it. Also keep plans in the back of your mind that the stock twins may be shot -- mine have terrible shaft-play. Be prepared for the single conversion -- that might be one of the first things you'll have to do. Not that it's bad, you can still run low boost to keep your power down -- just keep it in mind. Because that probably adds several other things like I mentioned above (WG, BOV, manifold, turbo, etc).

 

there selling a 86 n/a body with a 13brew. were i live, 6 g's. but the car lookes like they havent droven it for a long time.

 

6gs is pretty ridiculous unless that thing has over 500whp.

 

Trav - yea i forgot about the clutch >< is it possible to get away with a good condition stock clutch? i dont really wanna upgrade the tranny till i buy a TII one. as for the the flywheel, you need to have a counterweight if i remember rite. now is it a counterweight that is "suppose" to come with the 13b-re or is it from somewhere else?

 

You need the counterweight from the 13b RE. Make sure the RE comes with it -- that will be VERY hard to come by if it doesn't. Most of them do, but just make sure before you lay down the cash.

I suppose you could use the stock clutch, but I doubt it will last long -- you're going to be producing a little more torque than your stock NA. Clutches are pretty cheap -- in fact I ended up buying a used one in good condition. Since your power goals are pretty low right now, you should be able to use a "lower end" (lower duty) aftermarket one. i.e. you don't need the geewhizbang high dollar clutch.

Personally I think it would stink to drop in the stock one and then have to yank it apart a few months later -- but depending on how you drive it, you might make it last longer. That's probably your call -- weigh the cost of it against how much it's worth to you to not have to pull it apart again.

 

wel my plans are to buy them engine put it together asap and drive it. while im driving it i'll b lookin for parts to do a complete TII swap (minus the engine of course) it shouldnt take me more then 6 months to find everything.