jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Im thinking about staying NA and buying a 13b with S4 TII housings and plates with a J-Port.
I know for optimum performance, you need a standalone ECU and ITBs, but Ill be building it up slowly.
If I stick with stock S5 ECU and TB, would it still run so I could buy an ECU and tune from Vancouver, my trailer is kinda full.

I was thinking of a microtech, but what ITB would be good or even necessary?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

If I remember correctly a J-Port is like a Bridgeport, in which case you have no business running it on a stock ECU.

whereiscarmensandiego

^ like he said. for any kind of a reliable motor with that kind of porting u have to have a standalone.. not to mention that u in no way shape or form can run itb,s with a stock ecu.

lots of people like the tweakit.com itb setup or if u are daring and adventurous u can try some diy itb from a hayabusa or a cbr600rr

and your last question no u dont need to run itb,s u gain a few hp and get some nice performance increase but u can run it off the stock t2 intake.

for a itb setup u are looking at 1k+ most likley 1.5k
and the cheapest standalone would be a megasquirt at about 300 and the best would be a haltech running 1k+ for a used one

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Sweet okay thanks a lot...good thing this is a project haha, mainly for learning so yeah, thanks a lot.

sorry for the granny posting, but could someone point me in the right direction if I wanted to make a DIY ITB?

whereiscarmensandiego

search on google try hayabusa itb u will find alot of honda guys doing it. the same logic applies there is only 1 person who has done it on this forum i believe.. he got it running and working but i dont think he ever finished the project thread.

but jsut copy the honda guys. and basically u use the hayabusa itb setup with the tps and everything u get some velocity stacks and make a custom intake (aluminum would be best but steel is most practical and cheapiest) and u keep your primary fuel rail where it is and u mod the fuel rail on the itb setup to accept the larger car injectors for your secondaries.

this is a project im working on and if u need any advice or ahve questions just pm me iv been researching it alot and have almost everything needed done down pat even the runner sizing for the intakes

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

if your going to j-port you might as well just step right up to P-port or down to full bridge, J-ports are just stupid to me

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

This will probably be a future mod as the engine Im getting comes with port matched headers and a modded S5 TB.
I wont be going anywhere so Ill chat with you soon.
Ive seen a lot of the honda ones, I figured the same would apply.

RETed

Waste of time with stock intake...
Waste of time with stock throttle body...
Waste of time with any exhaust system you would normally use on a street car...

Do you know what you're getting yourself into?
The car will be borderline streetable...
It will get like 10mpg...when gas prices are rising.
If you're going to race it, the FC chassis is too heavy to be competitive or that type of porting is banned.

Troll?


-Ted

whereiscarmensandiego

maybey he wants to try and run n/a.? and 10 mpg sounds about right but isint that about the same for a very modded t2 that makes the same power?

its kinda hard not to get crappy mialge if u want any power out of the motor as it just manages to get 20mpg stock n/a

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

I want power out of NA.
Dont feel like going turbo. If I wanted turbo, Id buy a TII and call her a day.
I plan on buying a DD FC and doing this as a project. Keeps me out of trouble.

How would it be a waste of time with the exhaust though

whereiscarmensandiego

well the port needs lots of air going in and air going out . if u have the factory exhaust thats a big no no but if u ahve some 2.5 inch or 3 inch exhaust straight back to a canister muffler u should be fine i think.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

lol def. not stock i know that.
Like I said, Im here to learn, Im not going to aruge with anyone who knows their crap.

Eple

Hi Hughes,

I considered picking up Eric's J-Port, but I've decided to go a different route (If an FD I'm looking at falls though). I reallllly hope you know what you're getting yourself into. Like Ted said, HORRIBLE gas milage, an engine that will last at most 30,000kms, barely streetable, and you'd have to beef up the drive-train to sustain the engine's power band (read, make it so it can take 9,500 RPM+).

If you get it, good luck.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

J-Ports were created to get around anti-peripheral port rules in certain classes of racing. They are created by making bridgeports so big that they go into the water jacket and then backfilling the water passages with epoxy. The o-rings that seal the housings to the irons then have to be CUT to allow the port and the water passage sealed up with sealant.

This makes them the most unreliable ports ever developed. These engines don't make power until 6500 RPM (at least) and last hundreds or thousands (not tens of thousands or hundreds) of miles. The normal failure mode is that coolant begins to leak into the intake ports through the sealant. Not at all a suitable engine for street use by any definition.

The engine MAY run with the stock ECU. You'll be push starting it with another vehicle to get it going, and don't expect it to idle much below 2000 RPM. The stock S5 VDI intake will be a real problem as you've totally removed the closing pulses it relies on. In other words, it won't work.

You'll need a good standalone (Haltech has more resolution for NA applications then the Microtech) and without a doubt, a custom intake. ITBs are the easiest as there are kits available (RB lower intake, Guru/Fuji/Tweakit ITBs).

It's not a question at all about reliability. J-bridges are NOT reliable, simple as that. No ECU can prevent coolant from leaking into the engine. The fact is that the stock ECU will not work for this application.

It may also surprise you that the stock ECU will run ITBs quite nicely. A plenum needs to be fabbed so the AFM can be used, but it will work.

The stock TII intake is a very poor choice for this. The runners are way too long. A set of ITBs is really the only way to go, or a very short runner system with a big plenum and single TB. It would be more then a "few hp" gain if switching off of any of Mazdas stock intakes.

I'm curious, how have you determined that the Haltech is the best standalone? Which model of Haltech would you recommend and why?

If a stock or street port modded TII is getting 10 MPG on the street, then there is something seriously, seriously wrong with it or the douchebag tuning it is clueless. A properly tuned TII with stock or street ports should be pulling 18-22 MPG in the city at least, and damn near 30 MPG on the highway.

That's a terrible suggestion. Those pipes are way too large. For a j-bridge, you want a header using 2 1/8" primaries that merge about 24" back from the engine. Then go to your 2.5" or 3" (at the most) into a RESONATOR and then good flow through muffler.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

This is why I do my research BEFORE buying.
As for 30mpg for a TII, he said a very modded TII. But my stock NA gets only 450kms. But thats not the point. Gas mileage is the last thing on my mind to be honest.
I wouldnt mind going turbo, but then Im looking at the same drivetrain/ecu upgrades, exhaust, etc which is why I started to look at the Jport engine.
Before I posted here, I decided to youtube a few videos. Every Jport video showed license plates on the vehicle. 10mpg sounds like 440 V8 in a 1964 Polara to me haha.
Maybe Ill research a while longer and see what other NA applications will be fine for me.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

What are you looking for powerwise?

RETed

Where do you live that allows for such ear-bleeding exhausts?


-Ted

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

i live on Vancouver Island.

As for power, I was told this engine makes 250-280hp.
I was told he was running it on a stock GSL-SE ECU with a fuel regulator and he still destroyed a TII.
Anyways, Ive heard a lot of bad, but can somone tell me the "good" of going this route?

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Also, I was thinking Rtek for the ecu due to my pocket depth.

I was browsing around, saw the camden supercharger. Heard its ****, but also heard people who love it. I dont know anything about those things, cant imagine it would have much effect on a jported engine, but just thought id ask about it lol.

RETed

...lost.


-Ted

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

lol nvm, its 3am here, im not quite on the ball

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Any properly modded TII will have a full standalone, which if tuned properly, will deliver much better mileage then stock. A standalone not only allows you to tune in the appropriate A/F ratios and timing curves for high throttle, but will also allow the light load to be tuned for maximum economy.

You need the ECU and exhaust upgrades if you go with a j-port.

I'm sure there are a great number of people driving j-port engines on the street. I'm also sure there are people out there who have figured out how to seal them reliably to get 20-30K from these engines. However it took them 10 rebuilds to figure that out.

A j-port is not a street engine, simple as that. The porting style compromises reliability dramatically for reasons I've already mentioned.

Yeah, it probably goes like stink at wide open throttle. Now find out how well it starts, idles and drives at part throttle. Probably bucks so hard there are teeth marks in the steering wheel.

The good is that it will make a lot of power above 6000 RPM and has a nice idle. That's about it.

No, no and no. The RTek is far too limited to control an engine like this. You need a FULL STANDALONE that can be tuned to the CUSTOM INTAKE you will need to create. Piggybacks and modded stock ECUs won't do the job.

Sure, if you want to spend $6,000 to make 200HP.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

thanks