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134a ac conversion question

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Old May 13, 2004 | 08:43 AM
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134a ac conversion question

Hey guys, I am thinking of buying that universal 134a conversion kit from the autho parts store, and I have a question. Does the kit come with all of the O-rings for the ac lines or do I need to buy them separately? If I have to buy the o-rings, can I get them at the parts store? I know I need to change the receiver/dryer, but is this all I need:
1)134a Conversion kit
2)O-ring kit?
3)Receiver/Dryer

Thanks guys!!!!!

Sorry, this is a duplicate thread. I was logged on as somebody else. Mods please delete the other thread. Thanks
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:01 AM
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Don't use r134a!!!!!!!!! Get the 134a connectors for approx. 10 bucks and use DuroCool. It's colder, you don't have to worry about the corrosive nature of 134a and it's nearly the same price. BMW has used it for years. DO NOT USE 134a!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:02 AM
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Visit Foxtools.com to find out more.
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:16 AM
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after replacing those parts you cant just put the R134a or Durocool what ever your gonna use

you have to take it to a shot so they can vac out all the air and check for leaks then you can put in your **** if you put the R134a on top of the air that will be in your system its gonna hardly work at all
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Old May 13, 2004 | 11:07 AM
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Of course, Duracool 12A is a hydrocarbon based refrigerant, which means it could catch fire and/or explode...

Oh, and it's illegal. See http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrig...hc-12a.html#q2 for details.

edit: Illegal for use in anything but industrial processes, that is.

Last edited by glorthu; May 13, 2004 at 11:10 AM.
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Old May 13, 2004 | 12:12 PM
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anyone else? What parts do I need to buy?
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Old May 13, 2004 | 02:33 PM
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Do the conversion, when your done, if you have the capability, do a vacume, for about 15 minutes, then charge with one can freon and oil, and the rest just freon untill you are at the right pressures. If you have no leaks, you should be blowing cold air. Also make sure your condensor is free of debree, and has plenty of air movement accross, or you will not get accurate pressure readings. It needs air movement through just as badly as the evaporator. Heat in heat out.
Hope this helps, hard to explain A/C stuff.

EDIT: You may need a new high side switch as 134 runs higher to cool, and your old r12 switch may not let the systen get the extra 20 or 30 lbs it needs on the high side, hence the reson alot of conversions don't run as cold as the old system. The store you get the conversion kit from, should have this switch. Just unscrew the old switch, and screw in the new one.
Leslie

Last edited by ROTILLA; May 13, 2004 at 02:37 PM.
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Old May 13, 2004 | 02:44 PM
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Seeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrch!!!!!!!!! !!!

I made a big post about this...
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Old May 14, 2004 | 08:54 AM
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I did search, but there was nothing but debates about 134a compared to r12. I have the info I need. Thaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnkkkkkkkkkkkkssssssssssss!!! !!!!!
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Old May 14, 2004 | 10:09 AM
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Why not just go with a drop-in replacement like "freeze 12"

http://autorefrigerants.com/co00031.htm

Or this: http://glacier-gold-refrigerants.com...rGoldInfo.html

Last edited by SureShot; May 14, 2004 at 10:13 AM.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 12:20 PM
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Originally posted by glorthu
Of course, Duracool 12A is a hydrocarbon based refrigerant, which means it could catch fire and/or explode...

Oh, and it's illegal. See http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrig...hc-12a.html#q2 for details.

edit: Illegal for use in anything but industrial processes, that is.
I was thinking of the fire thing, but if you look at the MDS for all of these products they will all burn, and in fact Glacier Gold has a higher flash point then R134!

FWIW...
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Old May 14, 2004 | 12:36 PM
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Originally posted by rotorbrain
Don't use r134a!!!!!!!!! Get the 134a connectors for approx. 10 bucks and use DuroCool. It's colder, you don't have to worry about the corrosive nature of 134a and it's nearly the same price. BMW has used it for years. DO NOT USE 134a!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just curious, do you have a link to a reference that show's the BMW's use a hydrocarbon based refrigerant? I would like to read about it and BMW's reason for choosing it.

Thanks!
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Old May 14, 2004 | 01:19 PM
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first, R-134a is corrosive to aluminum, which is what mazda made the piping and compressor out of, so thats a bad idea. also, HOW IS R-12, WHICH IS HEAVIER THEN AIR EATING THE OZONE LAYER???
think about it.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 01:34 PM
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Originally posted by Falcoms
first, R-134a is corrosive to aluminum, which is what mazda made the piping and compressor out of, so thats a bad idea.
I guess that means Freeze 12, Free Zone, and FRIGC FR-12 shouldn't be used either, since they all contain over 50% R134a.

also, HOW IS R-12, WHICH IS HEAVIER THEN AIR EATING THE OZONE LAYER???
think about it.
Just because it's heavier than air, doesn't mean it doesn't diffuse upward. Yes, the concentrations will generally be lower at higher altitude, but that doesn't mean it _can't_ get there.

<joking> Our only chance is to make it react with ozone before it get's up high in the atmosphere! We need to disable the emissions on all our cars so we can make a nice thick ozone layer at ground level!</joking>
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Old May 14, 2004 | 01:40 PM
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It is heavier than air, but..........

R12 is a CFC (CCL2F2) which contains no hydrogen so they are very stable when released. They do , howerev, contain chlorine ammounts that ard dangerous to the ozone. Thats why they have such a high ODP.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 02:31 PM
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Originally posted by J-Rat
Seeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrch!!!!!!!!! !!!

I made a big post about this...

BWAHAHAHA OMFG! dude this is kind of funny

No offense to the thread poster.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 04:05 PM
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r12 is more deadly to the ozone layer then 134a.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 04:14 PM
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R134a has a 0 ODP.
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