walterh

Hey guys, I am thinking of buying that universal 134a conversion kit from the autho parts store, and I have a question. Does the kit come with all of the O-rings for the ac lines or do I need to buy them separately? If I have to buy the o-rings, can I get them at the parts store? I know I need to change the receiver/dryer, but is this all I need:
1)134a Conversion kit
2)O-ring kit?
3)Receiver/Dryer

Thanks guys!!!!!

Sorry, this is a duplicate thread. I was logged on as somebody else. Mods please delete the other thread. Thanks

rotorbrain

Don't use r134a!!!!!!!!! Get the 134a connectors for approx. 10 bucks and use DuroCool. It's colder, you don't have to worry about the corrosive nature of 134a and it's nearly the same price. BMW has used it for years. DO NOT USE 134a!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

rotorbrain

Visit Foxtools.com to find out more.

Pinfield357

after replacing those parts you cant just put the R134a or Durocool what ever your gonna use

you have to take it to a shot so they can vac out all the air and check for leaks then you can put in your **** if you put the R134a on top of the air that will be in your system its gonna hardly work at all

glorthu

Of course, Duracool 12A is a hydrocarbon based refrigerant, which means it could catch fire and/or explode...

Oh, and it's illegal. See http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrig...hc-12a.html#q2 for details.

edit: Illegal for use in anything but industrial processes, that is.

walterh

anyone else? What parts do I need to buy?

ROTILLA

Do the conversion, when your done, if you have the capability, do a vacume, for about 15 minutes, then charge with one can freon and oil, and the rest just freon untill you are at the right pressures. If you have no leaks, you should be blowing cold air. Also make sure your condensor is free of debree, and has plenty of air movement accross, or you will not get accurate pressure readings. It needs air movement through just as badly as the evaporator. Heat in heat out.
Hope this helps, hard to explain A/C stuff.

EDIT: You may need a new high side switch as 134 runs higher to cool, and your old r12 switch may not let the systen get the extra 20 or 30 lbs it needs on the high side, hence the reson alot of conversions don't run as cold as the old system. The store you get the conversion kit from, should have this switch. Just unscrew the old switch, and screw in the new one.
Leslie

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Seeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrch!!!!!!!!! !!!

I made a big post about this...

walterh

I did search, but there was nothing but debates about 134a compared to r12. I have the info I need. Thaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnkkkkkkkkkkkkssssssssssss!!! !!!!!

SureShot

Why not just go with a drop-in replacement like "freeze 12"

http://autorefrigerants.com/co00031.htm

Or this: http://glacier-gold-refrigerants.com...rGoldInfo.html

asherwood

I was thinking of the fire thing, but if you look at the MDS for all of these products they will all burn, and in fact Glacier Gold has a higher flash point then R134!

FWIW...

asherwood

Just curious, do you have a link to a reference that show's the BMW's use a hydrocarbon based refrigerant? I would like to read about it and BMW's reason for choosing it.

Thanks!

Falcoms

first, R-134a is corrosive to aluminum, which is what mazda made the piping and compressor out of, so thats a bad idea. also, HOW IS R-12, WHICH IS HEAVIER THEN AIR EATING THE OZONE LAYER???
think about it.

glorthu

I guess that means Freeze 12, Free Zone, and FRIGC FR-12 shouldn't be used either, since they all contain over 50% R134a.

Quote:

also, HOW IS R-12, WHICH IS HEAVIER THEN AIR EATING THE OZONE LAYER???
think about it.

Just because it's heavier than air, doesn't mean it doesn't diffuse upward. Yes, the concentrations will generally be lower at higher altitude, but that doesn't mean it _can't_ get there.

<joking> Our only chance is to make it react with ozone before it get's up high in the atmosphere! We need to disable the emissions on all our cars so we can make a nice thick ozone layer at ground level!</joking>

SBi_Owner

It is heavier than air, but..........

R12 is a CFC (CCL2F2) which contains no hydrogen so they are very stable when released. They do , howerev, contain chlorine ammounts that ard dangerous to the ozone. Thats why they have such a high ODP.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

BWAHAHAHA OMFG! dude this is kind of funny

No offense to the thread poster.

nitroracer

iTrader: (5)

r12 is more deadly to the ozone layer then 134a.

SBi_Owner

R134a has a 0 ODP.