swap over to a ribbed pulley set up, its much easier to do if you dont have PS and AC anymore.

I have now have all ribbed belts, but I have manual steering and had to get my AC bracket machined to accept a FD AC compressor.

So, do you have one serpentine belt that does waterpump Alt and A/C?

No airpump and no P/S?

I can't do without A/C and I have emissions testing in Dallas, but I admit the serpentine belt is attractive option.

Post some pics? Thanks Rob.

Try a local alternator repair shop. I was able to get both the proper size pulley and connector from my local shop, Gen-Star Electric. If your concerned about the connector wiring they should be able to help you with that too. Just be sure to use 4ga on your wiring coming off the 100A fuse in the engine bay. One side goes to the alt and the other goes to the starter on my setup.

I have one ribbed belt that runs alt/waterpump, and another that runs AC

I have no PS or air pump.
I dont have a picture of the final AC set up yet because the bracket is getting re-powdercoated after the machinist finished modifying it to mount a FD compressor to it. Im using a PS delete bracket from a S4 car, and finally a FD tensioner.

If you are not using AC, PS, or air pump there are couple of people selling aftermarket ribbed pulley set ups. I got these pulleys from a cosmo engine I sold someone, but I ended up only using the crank and waterpump pulleys, the alternator came with its ribbed pulley already.

I have this picture, but it shows the S4 v-belt AC set up still, we are finishing the FD upgrade this week, should have pictures later in the week.

I can now ditch the 2 V-belt pulleys from the crank, a cosmo uses v-belt AC so thats why I still had them on there, originally thought I was going to keep v-belt S4 AC set up.



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2334-1/DSC02417.jpg

I'm curious if the Taurus alt would fit under an OEM TMIC? I've got a vert with a JDM swapped into it. I've got an FD alt that barely squeezes under the TMIC.

Probably not. I have an 88 TII out back under a cover, but I really haven't looked at that aspect. If the FD is tight, the Taurus alt probably isn't going to fit with my mounting method.

Hmmm...my S5 alternator will retro onto the S4 TII (w/slight rewire). Free upgrade!

From the pics you posted, that's what I was expecting you to say...unfortunately. My best option may be an FD alt that's been upgraded for high output.

Guess what I found at summitracing.com? Dorman OEM Spec fans.

Would any of you guys feel better if you paid Summitt bucks for the exact same fan sold on Ebay?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...spagenameZWDVW


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Interesting that Summit Racing has picked up the entire line of Dorman OEM replacement fans-and they are charging premium prices for these fans.

got the AC back on, now using a FD AC compressor and belt tensioner, FD alternator, and cosmo pulleys- but it was by no means a bolt on modification. AC bracket is from a power steering delete FC

Still have to get the AC lines made, I probably wont bother for now and do it over the winter months.

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2367-1/eng+004.jpg

[QUOTE=Rob XX 7;8629014]got the AC back on, now using a FD AC compressor and belt tensioner, FD alternator, and cosmo pulleys- but it was by no means a bolt on modification. AC bracket is from a power steering delete FC

Still have to get the AC lines made, I probably wont bother for now and do it over the winter months.

Very nice. I am impressed.


Since the tensioner is from a PS delete kit, could you have actually used a power steering pump in that spot?

the tensioner is from a FD, the bracket is from a TII with no PS

I did not try a PS/AC bracket from a FD because I am not using PS. With a good manual rack you dont need PS with these cars, they feel great witout PS.

If I wanted PS and ribbed belts I would say to give a FD bracket a shot, you may have to modify it to bolt up and have the belts line up.

On my bracket 2 bolts lined up with the AC compressor, and 2 did not. So extra material was welded where needed and then drilled and tapped so that the AC compressor can bolt up.

SHIT! I am seeing 10.8 volts at idle(1000rpm)!! New battery and all..

I have a S4 re-man and have been studying this thread and others BUT still am up in the air to what to purchase.

when my "advertised as 3600CFM fan" kicks on, with the headlights on, stereo on- im seeing still seeing 14volts

The second main crank pulley, is that off the FD or are those two cosmo main pullies? cheers

http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/2367-1/eng+004.jpg

everything is either cosmo or FD

main and waterpump- cosmo

alternator, ac and its tensioner- FD

Very nice,clean.... looks OEM. cheers

So ted did you try the maxima alternator yet? I have not looked but would I have to make a bracket?

hi guys...

dont know if this has been posted yet but -

i got onto an awesome site on the net that do custom alternators as well.
i asked them about my car. i've got a 1990 Mazda Luce with factory 13bt configuration.
i used the same version rx7 alt description that i knew is the same as my Luce alt.
cause sure as shit as soon as i said Luce i would have got a HUH?? lol

they are here - http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/

question i asked -

answer -


so there is another option for you you guys. you just need to stipulate what model your car is. for the 1989 boys where the change in wiring configuration happened to the rx7 alternator you will need to state its early or late 1989 model

hope this helps

Just wanted to post some pictures

what exactely are we looking at?

Make model it came from or company bought from?

I checked the other night how I was doing: headlights on, stereo with subwoofer and 3 channel amp, stand alone, supra TT fuel pump, few extra gauges and electric fan running at a red light idling im at 14.3 volts.

thats with a new FD alternator.

Will those pulleys line up? Pic makes it look like they won't.

That must be the 3g (ford tempo) alternator.

sorry, I got called into a meeting earlier so i couldn't finish my post... anyhow, those pictures are of a stock S4 alt Vs. the 3G alternator from the Ford Tempo. It is the same alternator in the picture posted below. The dual sheave pulley does not line up and requires the modification of the waterpump housing boss to fit... basically you have to machine off about 3/8th +/- of an inch of material in order for it to line up... however, if you opt for the 13b-re multi groove pulley's instead it should line up with no modifications to the waterpump housing


Attachment 720697

I think the key to this is that the alternator is new. It hasn't been abused or overloaded yet. Probably wouldn't have the same success with a used/abused alt off the FD thread-but then, who knows.

I am extremely pleased with the performance of my Taurus alternator to date. Like your setup, everything works and the volts don't vary. Just for kicks, I should hook up my meter through the cig lighter just to verify the actual volts, instead of looking at the 19 year old volt meter on the dash. I assume you got your voltage from the datalogger of your Haltech(?)?

I get it from the wolf dash controller, but my stock 20 year old gauge reads the same, just not with a digital display.

The alternator came tested over 100amps, I forget what it was now- getting old sucks, I do know it was over 110 amps, seem to be thinking like 120?

I also have the battery in the trunk with 0 gauge to the dist. box under the hood.

I had a descrepancy that I'm not sure if I want to track down or not - I saw a .25v difference from what my AIM dash was showing vs what my Craftsman meter was showing when hunting for an IGN hot. When the full sweep autometer gauge gets hooked up, it'll be interesting taking voltage readings at difference places.

:suspect: Old you say?

My FD alt claimed to have been tested @ 120A. I never verivied it though. If I still have problems with the new pulley setup I will.

That's ALOT of wire! I generally use 2 ga with the exception of one project that called for 1/0

the wolf also has its own power wire, thats 4 gauge.
My wolf tuner told me the wolf likes good, clean power.

btw im 37

Friggin' old :rolleyes:

we should start the old fart's club

maybe we could get our own section:

Rotary Performance and Assorted STuff
**ID required- must be 2x age of car**

:rofl:

I'm not quite that old, 2x age of car but I have crested the 30 mark though

so what's the over all deal? does it work with no problem's i would read the whole thread but im too lazy..a rundown/recap would be nice.

:AA:

Yes.
.
-Jack

30? Hmmm...You will need a permission slip from your parent or guardian to join!

Or maybe get a younger car to qualify!

My Jeep will let me qualify then.

Maybe we should have a, "We do shit right club," :suspect:

I have old jeeps!
1976 CJ and a 1982 Cherokee wide wheel laredo, 304 and 360 AMC powered!

Hey Jack, how well do you think the Taurus alt would relocate to the P/S bracket? MY TMIC won't let me squeeze a Taurus alt in. I've got zero experience relocating alts so I need to educate myself more. But I have a spare P/S-A/C bracket lying around. I want to keep A/C cause I'm a wimp like that. I've been wanting to do the P/S removal mod anyway. Any advice while I do some reading/learning?

Just off the cuff, I think you would be better off moving the TMIC to the front of the A/C condenser than attempting to machine a mount on the P/S bracket. Moving TMIC to the front would increase the effectiveness and reduce heat soak. Then, you could mount anything you want to the alt mount.

Where do you get these "13b-re multi groove pulley"s?

Oh real Jeeps. Before they got all leather and sissy

From a 13B-RE engine

but I got to admit my 07' cherokee is much nicer to drive, the old jeeps are good for a blast around but get tiring.

I got the pulleys as notttt said- from someone with a 13B-RE engine, they were using different pulleys. I never tried FD pulleys, they may work.

A close friend of mine almost bought an '06 WK Overland which was a REALLY nice rig. You could really see the Benz influence. Personally my lifted 5spd XJ is plently comfy or me

FD pulleys would only work with the FD waterpump and housing as the e-shaft pulley is spaced farther out than the FC/RE pulleys

So if I go with the tempo, there is no avoiding the dual pulley?

I have a choice of getting a 1 wire or a 3 wire version of the tempo 170A alternator. The seller has been awesome, helping me out tons. I I have an FD alternator in my car now, but I'm sure the regulator is shot from incorrect past install.

Does anybody know for SURE 100% how I should wire in the alternator for the tempo without a stock harness. (I have a haltech standalone.) or should I just get the single wire? I like the idea of the single wire, but I don't like the idea of sub 14v idle and such. I will obviously be needing to install larger gauge wires and such, and getting a smaller diameter pulley so that idle RPMs is 2000+ instead of 1,440.

What do you guys think? 1 wire or 3 wire?

Just read up here, I am for sure going 3 wire, I just need to figure out how to wire it in. http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

***edit***

here are a couple pictures off the internet... you can run it like in the pictures...

but I ran mine :
The green/red wire goes to the amp/volt meter
the yellow/white should actually go to the ignition on/run
and the white black loops back into the alternator as shown in the pics


http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/...ALT_wiring.gif


http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/...ternator07.jpg

That yellow/white is the equivelent to our S wire. It should go to wherever you want to hold 14.1 volts. If you want 14.1 at the charging post of the alternator, you should just simplify and get a 1 wire alt.

I would run it to the positive post of the battery given that TweakGames standalone has a standalone. Put a 10 amp fuse for safety and call it a day.

Oh! These things are the 3G alternator? Crap. I read while browsing the web that their max RPM is 18,000 rpm. In order for my 4.5 inch crank to make the alternator do 2,400 rpm at idle (900) I had to get a 1.66 inch pulley. But at 7000 engine rpm, the alt is spinning at 19,000. At 7500 21,000. :( Crap.

Pretty much why I decided not to go with a rewind. Remember this post from page 3?

How do we win?