Wow, I really like that alternator. Looks like there would be a lot less work? You wouldn't need any brackets and such. Bastard, do you remember having any difficulties getting it installed and working properly? 170 amps just sounds .... juicy.

P.S. has anybody wondered why a ford tempo needs 170 amps????

will that work on a 13b?

naw, super easy install, just ask for the connector when you order it and they will give you the wiring directions... you just have to mess with the spacers/shims to line the pulley up... when you order it you can get either a dual sheave pulley or a multi groove pulley

the wiring is a 3 wire connector plus the battery terminal wire... one wire loops back to the battery terminal and the other two go to ignition on and amp/volt meter



edit..... I am such a tard, sorry for the mis information that i just edited out, but it is all coming back to me now. It has been a few years since i did the conversion...


I originally put the Tempo alternator on my 13bt (TII engine) I had to cut down the back side of the waterpump housing to move the alternator forward in order to line the dual sheave pulley's up...I cut about the thickness of the OEM alternator spacer off (about 1/2")

I'm in the process of cleaning up my engine bay and fire wall, and love seeing other peoples engine bays, but I'm dying to know... Did you shave your windshield wipers?

Where the hell is the wiper motor?

170amps is crazy amps, guess if you have alot of stereo equipment you would need that. For those not paying attention and maybe once you had seen a V8 car tuned it out- I went from a Mazda to a GM, so it does not matter what engine it was as the alternator and its wiring is whats important here.
With the wiring harness adaptor that GM sells there is no question as to the wiring as you just splice it into your mazda harness. No worry if you wired it right and if your battery will be draining or if you will burn out your alternator.

I did not miss that part, I ignored it. I do not have an ammeter that can handle the amount of amps that my car required, therefore I went by voltage. Would an ammeter be better? Yes, am I going to spend the money? No

If your car needs only 60 amps, than this in my opinion is a wasted mod. 130A is better than 100 sure, but to me, it's not worth all the extra effort and aggrevation to go from 60% down to 45% "duty cycle."


I didn't claim you were. The fact still remains though that I wasn't getting full voltage at cruising speeds. I needed more amps. I still have yet to decide on what to do. That tempo 170A unit looked nice until I heard about hogging out material. I may pull one from a boneyard and see if it will fit on my S6 waterpump housing first before I completely shrug it off.

it wasn't really about the stereo (i don't have a bad ass system but i do have a couple small amps)... the biggest problem is getting the Taurus fan started. It takes some 80 amps just to fire it up on high... it's a serious hairdryer :icon_tup:

the alternator was chosen because it was a super easy mod, practically bolt on

did you do back to back testing with the taurus fan and another quality fan?
why do so many people get this junkyard fan then try to get the rest of the car to run it safely?

the Taurus fan is 2800CFM, you would be hard pressed to find an aftermarket fan that puts out 2800CFM for the price... including the alternator

There is no wiper motor. The car is not a DD so there was no need for it. I welded the little nostrals on the hood shut too before I repainted it. By the way, it's the same color as the Elise. I actually had the VERY VERY first gallon of Lotus Storm Titanium Metalic ever mixed in North America.

One important thing to point out here and I'm surprised we got this far without mentioning it. Sometimes a poor charging system is the result of a piss-poor 20+ year old wire off the alt. I would replace that anyway if I was upgrading the alt.

FWIW that Motorcity Reman that Bastard showed us has an S6 reman Ho alt thats rated for 180 Amps @ $380 I would rock that.

http://www.motorcityreman.com/9396rx713l.html

wow... nice find:icon_tup:, they didn't have that 3 years ago when i did my conversion

So that install would be even easier, but you are paying WAY more for that little bit easier install and 10 more amps? Not sure I can justify that.

Thanks. Figures they wouldn't have it when you needed it. 3 years ago when i was gettin gmy car on the road I couldn't find one exept from that MechMan guy for $5-600. I wasn't going to pay that. Instead I paid with weak batteries, poor starting, dim lights, and AMPS that would go into fault when the bass hit hard enogh. I also sent a quote request to these guys
http://www.highoutputalternator.com/
& I plan on getting in touch with a few local shops to see other options. I'm also going to call MotorCity Reman and see if I can ship them some coated casings to use in thier assembly if I do go through them.

I can - 10 more amps, perfect fitment, no fucking around with shims or adjustments, WARRANTY............. WARRANTY. I've gone through way to many fucking alts and had way to many problems. I'm too old to bitch over $380 to put an end to some pain. Did I mention A FUCKING LIFETIME WARRANTY

http://www.motorcityreman.com/warranty-info.html

I'm basically sold

but there is the same warranty on this one also for less than 1/2 the cost ... proven to work. http://www.motorcityreman.com/9294tempo23l.html

I guess my time is worth LESS than 228$ an hour so I would rather spend an hour working on it than pay the extra. Everyone is different I guess.

At my last job I billed $270/hr ;) It could also cause problems down the road if the alignment is off, it could chew belts etc etc etc. To each thier own though. I think Bastard might have gone for it had it been offered based on how excited he was at the find and how bummed that they didn't offer it when he was looking. I don't like modding things to make shit fit. i would rather it all go together seemlessly. That's one of the reasons I build so many parts is that the aftmkt shit just doesn't fit right. I'm also at my wits end with this particular problem as it has been going on & off for some 7-8 years. I got so feed up with having to jump my car that I installed battery quick disconnects, mounted them in the storage bin and had my own cables that would PLUG into the car. I used to come home and plug my car into a trickle charger. If a phone =call and $380 solves that, I'm in. I'm also old and grumpy.

Kudos to Jackhild and others who have worked out bigger alts. I just put an FD alt on my 89 vert with a JDM swap. I just added a small subwoofer and a 3rd amp to my system. I've got a Taurus Efan sitting in storage waiting for me to figure out if the positives of the fan outway the negatives. This thread gave me more options, thanks.

Aha! Old and Grumpy I can relate to! I also relate to the value of my time. The my vert is really the only place that I can use my time that someone else isn't demanding value. Therefore I 'waste' my time by spending it solving problems that others have not/cannot solve. For me this is fun.

You really have gone down a tough road with this problem. You have even tried the 'upgrade' to FD and it all has been a bunch trouble. A larger charging wire is a very good idea. I pulled the charging wire from the Taurus, but I didn't use it. I will go back and add it when I remove the alternator to clean it up.

I have also decided to add an external alternator fan to the Taurus alt. I have done lots of reading on the subject. My take on all this is that automotive alternators, particularly from late model compact alternators, are not capable of producing the rated capacity for very long or they burn up. We are talking about minutes, not hours. Even what would seem to be mild duty cycles in my mind are pretty harsh on automotive alternators if long in duration.

For example on the Bosch site, they caution you to not attempt to charge a flat battery with the alternator after a jump start as it may lead to reduced alternator life! They tell you that the alternator was not designed for this output! http://www.boschautoparts.com/Resour...rsStarters.htm

Bosch also makes a line of high output alternators specifically for audio competitors. The alts are basically rewinds with heat resistant insulation (nomex) and soldered not crimped connectors inside and larger cooling fans and vents. Oh, and by the way, they specifically mention a smaller pulley to keep the amps up at low rpm.

If my E-fan was not on the car, my alternator would only put out about 35 amps with EVERYTHING in the car maxed. 35/80=43% duty cycle. My with the fan and the new 130 amp I get 60/130=46% duty cycle. I am think/hope that this is in a safe range, but I don't really know, hence my intent to add an external fan.

Alternators that can run at rated capacity are made for Marine, Urban Buses, Heavy OTR Trucks and they are HUGE framed alts that dissipate heat well.

I think that TTT is rightly concerned about heat.

They don't: That was a rewound alternator. Below is the stock alternator. 95 amps.


Product Part No. Price

Duralast / Alternator
Warranty - LLT DL7760-5-11
Price:
$149.99
Core:
$35.00
Total:
$184.99
Note:
95 Amp
Premium reman

Rob- on a forum where members commonly make 300-400 hp from 1.3l engines? You are questioning EXCESS ? heh heh

'Junkyard fan' makes it sound like junk. It is not. Nor does it draw 'ungodly' or any other derisive amounts of current. In electric draw on efans, you get what you 'pay' for. The 25 amp draw is paid back in airflow. Fans that do not draw this much amperage do move this much air.

To think that Ford fucked up the design on the Taurus fan, so they decided to put on an oversize alternator, then applied this mistake to 6.7 million Taurus produced to date is just not possible.

Yes, I know Ford is broke, but not because of spending too much money on charging systems.

The problem with the Taurus fan is our weak charging/electical system. Solve that and the fan is golden.

I think am nearly there.

So if money is not an issue, would I be better off going with the suped up fd alternator on my 13bt? I know it is fairly common to do the fd alt swap i fcs but I just want to make sure that there isn't something I'm missing.

haha - our age group is definately dwindeling when it comes to these cars. This is my hobby as well but I've spent enough time time one this particular problem and have gotten to the point where I'm willing to throw some bread at it to let someone else kill it.

If you live anywhere near a West Marine, Boat US or any other chandlery store I would SERIOUSLY reccomend grabbing some Ancor Marine Cable. I grew up in the marine industry and working with marine cable compare to auto cable is a difference that cannot be explained - it must be experienced. Ancor tins each strand so the resistance is higher and therefore you generally need to up the gauge size a litte but the flexibility of the cable is tremendous. I'm in the process of helping a good friend re-wire his '94 LR Defender 90 and I can make bends with 1/0 cable that would stress a 2 ga auto cable.

This is interesting, I'll have to question MotorCityReman when I call.

This I knew about but honestly, sometimes we don't have that option.

After reading that I think the electrical loads on our cars are really different. I really should invest in an ammeter or try to borrow someones just to figure out what my loads are. In the past though there was an e-fan, two amps, an ignition pack, fogs and upgraded headlights. The ignition pack is gone and has been replaced with 4 LS1 coils which are thirsty in thier own right so I may be back up to 100Amps or so with everything on full bore. Like I said, I should get the tool but in the past I have just relied on voltage. We shall see. It's nice to see someone taking the time to do the research and sharing knowledge though.

Just for haha's I checked out what they offer for my Jeep as a stereo and some lights are in the future. 90 Amp stock unit - bleh - 160 amp replacement = yay! However, they say right under the alt to upgrade the main battery wire and they even supply a chart.

http://www.motorcityreman.com/technical-info.html

It looks like I'll be upgrading my charge wire in the 7 again as mine passes through the firewall and goes right to the main solenoid. I used 2 ga and I think they're calling for 2/0 which in my eyes is way too damn much.

I think they are using the same chart for 1-wire alts and three wire alts.

Consider this: When you use a 'one wire' alternator, you must have overkill on the charging wire. This is because the alt senses the voltage at the alt charging terminal, rather than at the use box. Any voltage drop reduces your charging.

When using a three wire alt, all you need is wire rated to carry the amps produced. According to the Handbook of Electronic Tables and Formulas for American Wire Gauge for chassis wiring, for 160 amps you need 2 ga. 00 will carry 383 amps.

With 2 guage, 160 amps and a 20' run, you will have 0.514v voltage drop.
With 00 guage, 160 amps and a 20' run, you will have 0.256v voltage drop.

This is why alternators use remote sensing wire technology(and why 1-wire alts suck). Merely boost the alt output up by .5 or .25 volts via the feedback from the remote sensing wire. Now the volts at the fuse box will be right back to 14.1v. You can never get 14.1v at the main fuse panel with a 1-wire alt.

On that page you linked they strongly warn about low output at idle. They even tell you that they will put a smaller pulley on to solve the problem. They recommend a 3:1 ratio of crank pulley diameter to alt pulley diameter. My crank is 4.5 and my alt pulley is 2.5, 4.5:2.5=1.8:1 ratio! Therefore, at 8000 rpm, my alt is turning at 14400 rpm. At idle, 800 rpm my alt is turning 1440 rpm. These guys say their amperage drops off 'substantially' below 2400 rpm. The ratio they recommend will turn the alternator 2400rpm at idle, but at 8000 redline it will turn it at 24000 rpm.

You have been warned several times!!!

Seriously my friend, good luck and let me know how the HO alternator works out.

I cant argue the price, but what I will always argue is the logic behind using a old used fan as your source of cooling for your car.
With all the money people have in thier car is a $10 pick and pull fan worth it over a brand new fan that even comes with detailed installation/wiring diagrams?

I just switched over to a 3600+ CFM and feel its worth every penny, especially with its lifetime gurantee.

Lets not also forget the amount of parasitic drag that a larger alternator puts on the car. Im honestly STILL thinking of putting the stock fan back on, but I like the engine bay without it.

Here is a brand new Taurus fan, lifetime warranty ISO9000 rated manufacturer for $89.99 shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...spagenameZWDVW
Lifetime warranty.

Mind telling me what fan that is, and where did you get it? Also, are you running a VMount, or "normal" setup?

For the people interested in testing their full load, Why not just buy an Amp-Clamp, 30-200$ depending on manufacturer, gets you a reliable mean for testing amperage. As a mechanic I find I use it frequently, Easiest way to find a parasitic draw. put amp clamp on, See amps, rip out aftermarket stereo. see amps, Oh my the problem went away! how could that be!

What a concept! Actually measure the amperage??? You tell 'em Brother!

BTW, my digital meter with a clamp only measures A-C. Most people think that theirs will measure D-C until they read up on it or try to measure D-C. When I was researching the Taurus fan, I couldn't find anyone that had actually measured the amperage. Usually they would say 'I measured it with my Fluke-XXX and it drew 45 amps. ' I would look up the model and find that it was A-C only. Most of the numbers out there were made up. I'm sure someone somewhere measured it but when I measured it the fan drew 25 amps. I didn't buy a new clamp meter, but found a cheap easy way using an inline ammeter. Close enough for the girl I go with.

but thats not what people do, they get one from the junkyard. I also do not see any specifications for that ebay fan?
The ISO thing does not impress me at all, I deal with warranty claims from companies with ISO ratings all the time for products that cost ALOT more then a fan, products that cost more then our houses, and these are real bonehead errors.

I got a Zirgo, im betting the motors are all made by the same guys in Taiwan anyhow!
Greddy FMIC, with AC as well.

Yes, I work for a canadian company that is ISO certified and I handle Techservices and claims as a part of my job, so I can agree with your statement. However, a product from an ISO rated company is far better than a product from a company that is incapable of becoming certified.

Zirgo is making up their numbers. That fan will *not* move 3600 cfm at 10 amps. They are lying about their numbers.

I'm not saying it is a bad fan. I am not saying the fan won't cool your car. It may cool your car just fine. I'm just saying Zirgo has no magic wand to bend the laws of physics allowing them to do the impossible things that their spec sheet claims.

BTW, notice the bogus icon on the fan page the has a large Certified! across the words limited lifetime warranty. Who certified that, Zirgo marketing? The warranty is clearly 'limited' but the limitations terms are not anywhere on the web page.

If the spec sheet is bullsheet, then I do not trust the fans either.

Ill check my warranty when I dig it out, I already had to replace thier 3000CFM fan that burnt out, they said it was a manufacturing issue and they were no longer selling that fan so they upgraded me for a few dollars, they did offer me a full refund if I did not want to upgrade of if I wanted to buy another brand of fan.

I also dont really care if it is pushing 3630cfm, im thinking it has to be pushing close to 3000cfm in real world- where is the specs on that ebay fan that say what CFM and what amps it is?

This sound like the support the produce well. Sounds like it needs supported too.:( I have had similar experiences with Hayden(imperial) fans. They work fine, but they wear out.
I agree. I just has to do the job.

I wouldn't bet on that...but then, we have no way to know. The spec are there for one reason: to allow us to choose the correct fan for our application. So there is a need for them to be accurate.




The spec they claim is "All of our products meet ISO9001 and QS9000 quality control specifications to assure factory style performance and reliability"

That could be bull and certainly leaves a lot that could be disputed. I might call that number just for giggles and grins and speak to someone.

Edit: Quick email response

Dear jackhild,

Thanks for the email, they are made exactly to factory specs by Dorman. Thanks again.


- autopartsdirect2you

but who is to say what the 3.8 ford fan ever pulled to begin with? Where did the 2900CFM number ever originate from?

maybe it too is just internet propaganda, no different then when another company claims XXXX CFM?

Good point, I didn't think about that. They are probably also being safe and assuming that you are going to be using 100% of available amps at all times and want to be sure that you don't burn the wire out causing a fire.

I read that the Idle output of a 180A alt is something like 85 amps at idle. If I can get 85 amps at idle, I'll be thrilled. Lets not forget that I have the S6 waterpump housing as well as the crank pulley so I'll be running the serp belt with the correct factory ratio pulleys. I'll do some measureing but I think everything will work out. even if the voltage drops off significantly at idle, how much time is spent idleing around?

Now you and I are singing the same song. I have also read 4000 cfm and I have read 4500 cfm. All this sh*t about the taurus fan is made up. Ford has not released the specs. What I do know is that none of the amp figures are real, therefore none of the CFM details are real as well.


And all the details from Zirgo are made up as well.

Please, hook her up to your multi-meter and let her eat, Same on I have a good ole strap-on electrical tester.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Blue-...spagenameZWDVW

The old Optima yellow top was getting to be really weak. It came with the car back in 2005 and the PO didn't know its age then either. The dash voltage gauge was showing the intimate workings of the voltage regulator. The efan would kick on, the voltage would drop like a rock to 10-11 volts, then rapidly rise to 14v. The fan would shut off and the volts would jump up, then drop down, then rise to 14v.

I bought a new battery on Tuesday. I drove the car to south Arlington today, about a 30 mile trip one way. Mix of high speed traffic and start and stop traffic.

The voltage was stable as a rock at 14.1 volts. There was no discernible change, no spike or dip when the A/C and the Efan cycled on or off. It didn't matter if the car was going down the highway or idling in traffic.

The voltage just stayed steady as a rock.

This thing is great!

Just a tought...
If that alt ever supplying 130amp (or close to it), wouldnt this burnt the main fuse (black)???
I know some fc comes with 100a main fuse and mine only has 80a main fuse.

Yes, it would blow the main fuseable link rated at 100 amps. I doubt that the alternator will ever be required to put out that much, but I have a spare in the console.

The big alternator is really more about being able to carry the sustained load of the increased accessories without overheating, in my case the 50-60 amp sustained load. That will not likely add up to more than 100 amps.

I've been doing some thinking and replying in other threads and realized that the pulley ratios are different from the FD to the FC. We know the FC's thanks to Jack, I'm going to go measure my FD crank and alt pulley and get that ratio. I think one of the reasons the FD alts don't do as well as they should in the FC's is because they are underdriven.

So I finally got the chance to call them today, here is what I found out. The 3:1 ratio is what they claim NORMAL alts turn at.
At 2400 alt RPM's the alt will produce roughyl 50% of it's rated capacity. In the case of the FD HO alt, that's 95 amps at idle speed assuming a 3:1 ratio of pulleys. Not too shabby. I need to measure my crank and alt pulley to determine what my ratio will be. However, even if the alt output drops off linearly from 2400 RPMS to zero, your 1.8:1 ratio would theoretically yeild 57 amps of output. Still pretty fricken good. I mentioned the 8k redline and he said, you're not there all day, it'll be fine.

They also said they would be willing to build me one using my powdercoated case :icon_tup:

Also, I'm not an electrical genius but to me a rewound alt is just that - a modified stock piece. These guys, Motor City Reman, buy all new pieces, new stators, bigger diodes etc etc etc to make the alts produce the amps that they do. They don't add more windings, they use an entirely different stator. Jack, serious question not being old and grumpy - does that sound legit to you as being a better option over a "rewound" alt? I remember dicking around with electic track cars as a little kid with my uncle and winding more material around the motors in the quest for more speed. I always though alts worked backwards from electric motors and adding more winding would just increase the output.

All depends on how it's wired up. in my instance the battery (in the storage bin) cable connects to a solenoid switch. From the solenoid switch to the starter, from the starter to the main fuse block and then everything is factory. Therefore I am not drawing one extra amp of current over what the car was pulling stock. I have aux fuse blocks that are hooked up the battery. My alt wire is connected to the battery side of the solenoid. I can use the solenoid as an emergency shutdown if I need to and I don't have to worry about accidentally cooking the alt if it;s tripped accedentally.

This is the current theory, but I would like to actually find out if this is true.
Let us know the ratio. That may be the key to living better with an FD alt.


I dunno, here is what they say in the technical information on the site:I am not trying to pick n quote to make my point. What I think is that the high output alternator is an art form and these guys sound like they are pretty good at it. The fine points may defy easy explanations or rules of thumb. Just be prepared to work with them after the initial install, because you may have to do some tweaking.

BTW, I did a little checking and you can buy lots of different alternator pulley sizes at Jegs. From 2.1" to 5". That 2.1 will give you the 2.1:1 ratio which might be necessary when tweaking.


If they are doing custom parts (or spec-ing HD parts that are available) then I would much rather go down this path than with a common 'rewind'.

Sounds complicated but maybe a good idea for relocation. Here is a thought. Check the idle volts at the B terminal on the alternator, at the battery positive terminal, at the solenoid terminal and last at the main fuse terminal.

If there is a voltage drop between the charging wire (at the solenoid) and the main fuse terminal (where the alternator 'senses' the volts) then it might be possible for your setup to over volt the battery at times, reducing battery life.

Will do. I've got some parts to pick up in the morning than I'm all about the 7 all day. To be honest though, I'm going to spend most of my day playing with the new parts though ;)

Very well said. I agree, it's a bit of a black art that I am not all that familiar with. IE - I didn't know that common rewinds could result in lower idle output as you have said in the past. I always figured more wind = more power at any given speed. Who knew. I am more than willing to work with them, it's a 7 for crying out loud. I've been tweaking this car for more than 11 years :rlaugh:

[quote=jackhild59;8549677]BTW, I did a little checking and you can buy lots of different alternator pulley sizes at Jegs. From 2.1" to 5". That 2.1 will give you the 2.1:1 ratio which might be necessary when tweaking.[/quotes]

That's good to know. Someone (Cliff - I hope you're reading) with access to a CNC machine could probably make a ton of bread making correct serpentine or v-belt pulleys if we do determine that the bigger size FD crank is to blame.

They are. I was told that with thier high output alts just about every single part is different from the stock amp units. They specifically mentioned stators and diodes and a few other things.

That scheme isn't too complicated. What got complicated was wiring in a Hella aux block and 8 relays to control various other things throughout the car. Some had to be constant hot even when the bat was shut off (PDL, PDW, alarm, Fog lights, horn, radio mem) while most can be keyed on with the ignition. That was a mindfuck wiring everything up. It all works though.

I'm running a Motec EMS and when I built/had the engine harness we added the alt exite wire into the engine harness so testing at the main fuse block will do no good. When she runs I will test at the B terminal, bat terminal, solenoid terminal - which is only about 2' of 2ga - and the S or L terminal, whatever the exite is, I can't remember. I'm not using the warning light indicator. The idiot lights are leaving - FOREVER

"If" it is the fact that fd crank pulley is bigger, then is this mean that "fc" car is underdriven the fd alt???
How can we fix this prob?? can we just put in a bigger size alt pulley??

Smaller size pulley.

i know this post is old, but OEM quality is really high, esp for even Ford to put it factory in a car.. its really a nice fan i had put one in my 240sx. I had a flexalite fan and went to the taurus fan because i was overheating with the a/c on. The built in shroud and power make the taurus fan kick ass.

Good thread, gonna bookmark this!

I measured the pulley circumfrence today

ALT = 7.5"
Crank = 14"

Ratio = 1.87:1 :scratch:

I'm not ditching my alt pulley to tweak anything. It's a beautiful custom piece. IFF I have problems I'll go to a machinist and have he pump out a crank pulley. But that IFF I have problems. If the stocker replacement is 100A & the HO is 180, I should be putting out ~80% more amps @ idle assuming they both drop pff the same amount which is probably a false assumption. Whatever, we'll see.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I should've measure to see if a 7" crank pulley would even fit. If it does I bet I might be able to go back to a stck waterpump pulley too instead of the underdriven one to give more belt contact... hmmmmmmmm

I just wanted to do a quick follow-up on this thread, cause I'm interested in it...

A local shop uses Nissan Maxima alternators for most imports as a high output set-up.
I did a quick search on eBay, and theres models listed from 130A, 140A, and 160A.
Prices are from $70 - $130.
The plug *looks* like it's the same as the S5 / FD one.
The problem is the pulley - it looks like they use multi-ribbed serpentine belts.


-Ted

Ted-

Are you going to try this one? The pulley swap should be straitforward. Just use the one off your old alt, if the shaft fits. If not, there are plenty of aftermarket pulleys at Jegs.

Also, on the plug, just check out the Nissan wiring diagram, they very likely use the same setup that the S5+ gens use-one wire to the charging light another wire to the main fuse box under the hood. To keep it strait, the larger guage wire of the two wires from the alt goes the the fuse box to remotely sense the voltage. You may have to change out the plug to use the nissan or change the polarity to fit the FC wiring.

My next phase for this car is to replace my Taurus fan with the supposedly more muscular Mark VIII fan. You can never be too good looking, have too much money or have too much airflow across a condenser coil.

Yeah, I'm looking for more amps, since I might have the big stereo itch again.
The FD can barely keep up 13.0VDC at night with the headlights on...especially when the electric fan kicks in.
I've got a crappy single 16" fan in there now, but it's going to go duals pretty soon.
More current draw. :(
$130 for a 160A alternator looks mighty temping right now...

Sorry about the Cressida reference, but the saddle mount is totally different.
The Cressida alternator is like your Taurus alternator though... :)


-Ted