ive spent a good last part of the week working on just trying to get my car to start, after two months, a motor, and 3000 later i still cant get the engine to even sputter. everthings connected, its getting fuel, spark, and air. the compressions good. all it does is jsut crank and crank. does anyone have any suggestions. i dont know if this would have anything to do with it but i took the air pump off and caped or plated all the emissions stuff. the bavc sensor is kinda just sitting there cuz it no long part of the car, do i have to do anything with that? theres also the brake booster line that i dont know where it hooks into. any help is appricated.

 

haha i just went throught the same thing. if you find out where to plug that break line to let me know. but as far as getting the car started you need to switch the omp and maby the tps sensor. also play around with the mass airflow sensor when trying to start the car because if you have a vaccume leak or a few of them then essing with this will let you know if that is your proublem. simply pust the sensor on ur intake in to trick the ecu into thinking the air input is greater. this way it will start even with vaccum leaks. after the car starts let off the sensor and if it dies then you know you got a leak.

 

Theres the brake booster line in the upper left. I just looped it around to make it work for now, later I will cut the pipe on the firewall down to make the line shorter with no loop.

 

thanks for all the help guys!!

 

a vaccum leak will not cause your car not to start dont even worry about that. if its not firing at all then look up under your dash on the passenger side and varify everythings connected, if thats all good then dissconnect your maf and your tps. ive run my car several times without either of these. if it starts then you have a bad maf, bad tps, or even possibly a horribly misadjusted tps. other things, check fuel lines for correct placement. let me know what happens

 

Man,

It would probably KILL this man to call one of us local guys for some hands on assistance.

Sheesh!

 

lol, its not that i wouldnt appricate your help j rat.. haha i just dont want you guys to laugh at what a piece of crap it is haha...

 

Dude..you just posted that you have a NON-running RX7..We already Know you have a Piece of Crap!..Now,Suck it up and get someone over there that knows what they are Doin!..(of course I am just Ribbin ya..good luck..Get that TII goin!)

 

My car isnt exactly showroom condition either but it runs good.

I have some accident damage to the front bumper on the passenger side that bent the hood and pushed in that side of the bumper, I cant do nothing about it now to fix it because I dont have the money but I can still be happy for the fact that my car runs and has quite a few nice mods

I've actually had people help me with my car several times, I wasnt scared to think they wouldnt like my car ..who cares what anyone thinks as long as youre happy.

 

haha, alright alright, im convinced, lol anyone live in tucson thats willin to trouble shoot? it gets pretty techinacal with whats goin on with my car and i have no clue whats wrong with it, if someone honestly thinks they can diagnose it then im all for any help anyone can give me.
-Ryan

 

You would be surprised what we know. Some of us eat, sleep, and breathe rotary.

I will PM you my #.

 

Hmmm...

Wonder who got it running?

 

$5 says you

 

You owe me $5...

 

Jrat is the man

 

And how did you do that?

 

Well, it turns out it was just REALLY FREAKIN FLOODED! Couple of laps around the block and it started de-flooding.

 

wow thats a really good outcome, compared to having to throw more money at it.

 

i am having the same issue as him. did u pull it around the blcok?

 

Mine did that the other day. Yeah you just pull start it around the block in 2nd gear untill the engine starts to run on its own. Then we just drove it around a few laps to clear it out.

 

im scared of something bad happening to my engine doing that. i just installed a haltech and new motor. i think the pulley might not be bolted in in the correct spot and the timing will be way off. ive narrowed it down to being extremely flooded or the pulley in the wrong spot (timing)

 

The pulley bolt pattern makes it close to impossible to install it wrong.............unless you wallow out one of the holes so it will fit.

You can find TDC by reading this thread at the very bottom of the thread. http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

His method is slightly wrong. Get the apex seal in the middle of the Trail sparkplug hole and make a mark on the pulley. Then rotate the eccentric shaft til the same apex seal gets in the Lead sparkplug hole, but not in the center of the hole. Keep going til the seal rests in the very bottom of the sparkplug hole, but with all the apex seal visible.

There is a reason for this. The two sparkplug holes are NOT equal distances from TDC. The center of the bottom hole is closer to TDC but if you rotate the seal like mentioned above that will make things right.

In other words, if in doubt, get a rotor housing out and do some measuring from the sparkplug holes CENTER to the TDC any you'll see for yourself. Mabe I shouldn't have used TDC in that last sentence. How about the highest point b/t the two sparkplug holes? Yes. Because when the apex seal is resting at that high point on the rear rotor housing, the front rotors combustion chamber is in that same area. see the pictures in the link.

 

i read about the pulley last night. thanks for some help.