2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

13.0 in T2

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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:23 PM
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mr0pistons's Avatar
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13.0 in T2

I have a 89 T2, and am looking for ideas to get to 13.0 in the 1/4. Right now according to the previous owner it runs a 14.3.

Mods-
Racing Beat DP and full exhaust
Some ACT Clutch
Greddy Profec B, SAFC, Boost Gauge
Apexi Air Filter

Can I still use the SAFC or should I go with a standalone? Is the factory turbo ok or should I upgrade? Thanks for any input.

dave
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:24 PM
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Replace the turbo, fuel pump, and injectors.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:25 PM
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What kind of turbo? I assume a walbro 255 and 720's are good enough?
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:25 PM
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Standalone
Weight reduction
Bigger turbo
bigger intercooler
bigger radiator
A good set of tires
good mounts,bushings
etc.
cheak the dyno, time slip section
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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I have been browsing the time slip section...can you be more specific about the turbo? Will it work with the factory manifold or do i need to get an aftermarket one?
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:35 PM
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man you got LOTS of options if 13 is your goal.

get 250whp and some MT et streets. a good 60 foot time is where its at.

i guess it has alot to do with the driver.. but there are people with pretty much stock setups running mid 13s. then there are others with the same setup on paper, but run 14s.

is it just depends.

id say go run the car. see what you get it to run. then go from there.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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I'd like to go run the car but there are no more test and tune nights at the local strip. I found a dyno sheet with all the paperwork and stuff he gave me and it put down 224 whp and 222 ft/lbs torque. I did buy it with seized rear calipers and heavy 18's(i'm putting vert wheels on it this week) and I wouldn't be surprised if the guy ran the car with the calipers seized.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mr0pistons
I'd like to go run the car but there are no more test and tune nights at the local strip. I found a dyno sheet with all the paperwork and stuff he gave me and it put down 224 whp and 222 ft/lbs torque. I did buy it with seized rear calipers and heavy 18's(i'm putting vert wheels on it this week) and I wouldn't be surprised if the guy ran the car with the calipers seized.

lol drag racing with the brakes on. that will slow u down a bit.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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why not shoot for a 12.9?
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mr0pistons
...should I go with a standalone?
YES. dont mess around buying like 10 seperate things to do the same thing. It'll be the same price anyway, especially if you sell all the old crap. If you're serious about the car just buy a standalone. Plus you can set your own rev limiter, your own fuel cut (or no fuel cut) and get nifty stuff like a 2-step which would also help in wuarter mile.

You can just buy some mammoth 1600cc injectors, which are actually cheaper, that you'll never have to upgrade and you can tune them with the to run at like 50% or less until you need more fuel. With a standalone you can completely max out the stock turbo. However, it still wont be enough to run a 13 flat. You'll definitely need an aftermarket turbo unless you want to run stock turbo with nitrous or something else crazy. Standalone gives you so much headroom and IMO actually saves money overall if you can make the initial investment.

/rant
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 12:00 AM
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^thanks for the input...what would be the best turbo to go with? I have no clue when it comes to turbos.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 12:05 AM
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TID, TB mod, remove ac/ps/ap belts for race day. drag radials or better. good driving, you will get your an extremely low 13. i managed a 13.6 with 265 all seasons with the same mods

edit, that was for the same mods you have now. oh and get a fmic

edit x2- port your wastegate and remove the twin scroll and even up the runners to the turbine.

Last edited by gxlspeeder; Oct 19, 2005 at 12:08 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Replace the turbo, fuel pump, and injectors.
13s are EASILY attainable on a stocker S5 turbo. I hit 13.4 with stock turbo, stock TMIC, an SAFC, a Walbro, and some bigger secondaries.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Rat
13s are EASILY attainable on a stocker S5 turbo. I hit 13.4 with stock turbo, stock TMIC, an SAFC, a Walbro, and some bigger secondaries.
The goal is 13.0, so far the shopping list is...
FMIC
720cc Secondaries
upgrade turbo
TID
Standalone

That's all I can think of right now, off the top of my head.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 11:54 PM
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Why upgrade the turbo?

Shopping list according to me.
FMIC
walboro 255
rtek and 720cc injectors
MBC at 12-14 psi
STICKY TIRES IS A MUST.
Lots of dremel grinding bits.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 12:09 AM
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What will a manual boost controller do for me that an electronic won't?
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 12:30 AM
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^save money?
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 01:05 AM
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if your planning on upgrading the car more then dont bother getting a MBC save money for a electronic one its be better and worth it
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 04:56 AM
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but a mbc is $14
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 07:36 AM
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Your motor is worth $14?


-Ted
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:57 AM
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You don't need a standalone or a FMIC to hit a 13.0 . My buddy ran a 13.1@105 with street tires, stock turbo, stock IC, stock ports (Turrentine rebuild).

this was on an '88 T2. He had injectors, exhaust, Rtek 1.7, SAFC, etc, and a good dyno tune with a wideband.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 09:53 AM
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^^^ Exactly.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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Reason I asked was that I already have an electronic boost controller.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 10:24 AM
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yeah i have seen quite a few people w/ fairly modded T2s cracking low to mid 13's all day...with stock ports, stock turbo, and all....just make sure ur car is running right...and definitely have the fuel mods to support your extra power...
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 10:44 AM
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If you do want an upgraded turbo, the best bang for the buck would be a bnr hybrid upgrade. Check it out at www.rx7store.net
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