Hey guyz...
I've finished up my t2 into FB swap, but, am having some issues bringing timing all the way down to base.
Runs very rough and low when leading set at yellow mark on my 13b pulley....
I HAVE noticed the timing marks on the 13b pulley and 12a pulley ARE different... The spread between leading and trailing marks is wider on the 12a pulley and it looks like the bolt holes are slightly different.
I've been forced to use the 13b pulley due the offset holes.
What I'm thinking of doing is "egging" out one of the holes on the 12a pulley to fit on the 13b e-shaft, thus, using a 12a pulley with a 12 front cover.
Any thoughts?
Anyone else have a similar issue?
Thanks guyz
-Chris

 

the leading mark is all that matters, trailing mark is just there so that you can make sure that the split is in fact doing something.

the position of the pointer on the 12A front cover should be in the same spot, so if using the S4 original hub with rotating assembly it should time properly if you ONLY used the 12A front cover and the rest off the old engine. if you're having a difficult time getting it aligned then your CAS is likely stabbed improperly or you're not idling the engine down properly.

is this on a stock engine management system?

 

Setting timing when idling ~750 rpm with test wire grounded.

RTEK 1.8, but, was having similar issue before it was chipped.

It's stabbed correctly... pulley lined up to leading timing mark... CAS marks lined up... CAS installed. But, I'm also having an issue where I can't get timing set while still having CAS lined up with tightening hole slot... I've tried skipping a tooth, but, run into same issue on other side of tightening hole slot.
I figure I'm doing something obviously wrong, but, I don't know what that is... ugh

 

NOTE: I'm NOT using the majority of the left side harness as this is a swap... When I ground the "test wire" i mean I'm grounding the orange wire at the ECU

 

OK Ok... another note.. I can't seem to adjust the TPS either. When I probe the green wire (grounding other ohm meter lead... key ON and car warmed up) i can't seem to get 1v... even with adjustment screwed all the way in it only goes down to 1.4v. TPS appears to have no dead spots, but, I realize this may affect setting the timing so I thought I'd bring it up.

 

I've never heard of grounding a test wire at the ECU, but I've also never used an Rtek. What I do know is that you've probably got the CAS drive gear in backwards. If you're lining up the CAS properly and you can get the timing right to within about a few mm, but just need that little extra bit of rotation, then when you re-stab it, you need a little more rotation the other way, the drive gear is backwards.

I've been there.

 

What should the drive gear look like when looking down the CAS hole?

 

You have to pull the front cover off to check it. When you stack it up, it's supposed to have the beveled edge should face towards the engine.

 

i see... but, I would think you should be able to look down the CAS hole and see if the gears are going right or left

 

It'll look the same either way.

Do this. Look at these backslashes:

///////


Now turn your computer upside down and tell me if they're going the same way.

 

was able to adjust TPS To 1.02 volts which brough timing to within a couple degrees.. Adjusted timing and bumped boost to 10-11 psi... It fukn screams now!!!

 

good! FYI the 12A pulley might be different depending on the year of the engine, the 83 and older 12A's have the leading mark @TDC, so it is DIFFERENT than a 13B.

 

Learned something new today

 

Is the GSL-SE pulley different than the S4II?

I'm pulling pieces apart now from an SE motor to fit on my S4TII motor. Pulley stays with the engine or the cover?

I have no idea if the pulley from the TII motor is right. PO never got it running, and the pulley wasn't bolted down (he swapped the motor into a NA FC. )

Is there a measurement spec to tell which pulley is which?

Thanks!

 

the only way to know for sure is to remove the hub bolt and clock the engine so that the keyway in the e-shaft is at 9 o'clock and use various pulley combos.

 

yes. the gsl-se (and everything older than 85) doesn't have the odd bolt so you can bolt the pulley on the pulley boss 4 ways.

the gsl-se pulley should be right, but you do want to check it

 

Keyway at 9 o'clock on 13b and 6 o'clock 12a?

 

Problem resolved.. thanks guyz

 

no! the key way in the E shaft is ALWAYS @9 o clock when the front rotor is on TDC, for a mazda 2 rotor. the key ways are both machined opposite of the front lobe.

the pulleys, pulley bosses and markings vary between the years, so when you're building a rotary, you either need to use the pulley that came off the engine, or do what every piston engine builder does, and verifies TDC on the pulley.

 

Perfect :O)