Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

I am wanting to verify that my 10th AE is the real deal. Im guessing the best way is via the VIN. Is there a certain VIN for the 10th AE's? how do I verify my car is an authentic 10th AE with the vin code?

Evil Aviator

I'm not aware of the VIN being any different than a regular 88 TII, but the 10AE model number is FB79, and the UC paint code by the firewall VIN should be a good indication of a real 10AE. Also, I don't think that most of those who attempt a fake would think to add the headlight washers and bronze tinted windshield. Your local Mazda dealership should be able to look up the VIN for you.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

so do I look for the FB79 on the firewall or the dash?

now

iTrader: (1)

check the list and your AE vin should fall between
everyone elses.
look at:
http://fc3s-pro.com/reg.html

matt

Mr. Eccentric

The seats should be leather with a 10th ann. crest embroidered.

Like the aviator said, you should be able to see a noticable bronze tint to the glass.

Otherwise just contact Mazda and they'll look up the build sheet.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

There was no crest embroidered on the seats - just plain black leather. There was a patch on the floormats, however.

It would take a LOT of work to pull off a "fake" 10th Anniversary, as it was the ONLY '86-88 car with black interior, and the interior parts are hard to find.

Best bet is to compare your VIN to the link above - all the 10th Annies fall in a certain VIN range. That's the least subjective way if you're not super familiar with the car.

Dale

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

I am very familiar with the 10th ae. But I have been having some suspicions with mine. I didnt receive the 10th AE key, the floor matts are from a GXL. But everything else is in order. I just want to verify that it is a 10 ae by the vin because that is determining factor of finding out 100%.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

here is my vin #
JM1FC3329J0622520

knight1976

hope its the real deal man. The door panels are a pretty good way to figure out if it is or not. THe 10th ae door panels are completely unique. SImilar to the s5 but not quite the same. Youll know what im talking about when you compare em to a s5.

Evil Aviator

On most of the FC models it's in the driver's door jam.

OK, that's at least some type of 88 TII (332 = turbo engine, J = 1988). Also, the serial number seems to correspond to the other 10AE VINs. Is there a "UC" paint code next to the firewall VIN?

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

There is a UC paint code. but in the door jam it says fb44a.

Evil Aviator

The Crystal White (UC) paint was only available on the 10AE models, so it's pretty safe to say that you have a 10AE as long as the paint code is not faked. The regular white TII's were painted Noble White (WY).

The model number seems to be rather difficult to determine on FC's. You may want to check with other 10AE owners to see if it is marked somewhere on the car.

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

cool. I was just wondering. I bought this thing with a locked motor, shortly after I wrecked my 91 n/a. I was planning a T2 conversion for the 91, so I already had a freshly built series 5 13BT. During the installation of the motor I ran into so much **** that was just riged up it wasnt funny. After all of that, I have been getting suspicious of the car. 10AE or not, its still a turbo, that beats the hell out of my 3 n/a's I have had up to this point. Along with the fact that I am going to continue to modify it. My microtech LT8 should be here shortly!

Evil Aviator

It sounds like a 10AE to me. What all is rigged or not is another story, LOL. I would still be suspicious of rigging. Then again, I'm a paranoid helicopter pilot.

The TII conversion is not very smart IMO, so I think that you have come out way ahead by wrecking your NA, if that makes any sense. I wouldn't necessarily say that the turbo engine is better, but if you like it better, than that's great. I think that you will be pleasantly surprised how well an aftermarket EMS can run the engine compared to the ancient stock computers.

SoRRoW

ALL 1988 "10th Anniversary"

(U.S.) models should have last 6 digits of VIN's...
FROM: ...621393
TO: ...624147

SoRRoW

Get a carfax ran,

Im the 3rd owner of mine,The first owner was in Cali,the second owner bought it in Cali and moved to Tampa where I got it,No accidents reported etc etc

Chixican

iTrader: (1)

Also if you have the original owners manual and warrenty card it'll tell you the vin# and something like MAZDA RX7 ANV CPE WHITE.. Mine had 12 miles originally!

Vic's2015

if this is true that would make 2754 10AE.... not 1500 like I keep hearing....

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Not true at all. There were only 1500 produced worldwide and not all were sent to the U.S. Canada received several, though im sorry that I don't have an exact number The 10AE was produced in batches and not in one continuous production run. They were produced on the same assembly line as other FC's and were mixed in. Every one that I've owned has been produced in 3/88. I would venture to say that the majority of the production run is in March of 88, though some could be as late as 4/88 on the later vins.

DaBrkddy

This thread didn't need to be resurrected just for that.

That being said, I'm highly doubtful that mazda stopped all other production just to make 1,500 10AE cars in sequence, then resume normal production. I'm sure they were likely "sprinkled in" to the rest of production (since they don't have a specific vin sequence.) That explains why there's a vin "range" that the 10AE vins fall into. That doesn't mean all cars in that range were 10AE cars. That just means that was the range of vins they were found to be made inbetween.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

that is probably right, they were making ~200 Rx7's a day back then, so 1500 is like a weeks production if that is all they did...

easy to verify a 10AE btw, its an 88 coupe with a UC color code, all the others will be WY