Well bought a 10th AE that was street ported and upgraded turo system. HAd work done on it, but alot of stuff he did looked sloopy. WOuld of had it fixed at a shop but not much here in Omaha, NE. So any ways, car hadent be en run in years, was garage kepted.

Replaced all the fluid, spark plugs, order block off plates cause the BAC has nothing hooked up to it ( just chilling) there is no air control valve, and boost sensor not hooked up. Been replacing all teh plugs, as had a small radiator fluid leak. Sent injectors out to be cleaned by whichhunter. Ghetto compression test test says everything is good.

Issues: Main issue is that it will not turn on constantly. Kinda of like when ever it feels like it,So the old owner said it needed a ems due to the upgrades, so got a pfc waiting to install (want to get it some what running first). The car had a apexi safc (learning how to use it). The car will crank and try to turn on now, and with a piggy back hks pfcon I got it to run a couple times, straight pipe is loud as hell. the car had no low end but after 3k everything was alright except the constant back firing. Also times there will be no idle but the engine is still alive. What other stuff should i go over


have the fsm, haynes, been reading as much as I can. Getting as many of the colored diagrams as possible but if you guys have any, could you post them up

 

I don't like your user name! hope your not claiming to be one!


Back to RX7s


Do a real compression test..it may be toasted...

How many miles?

 

Make sure to re-connect the boost sensor before proceeding.

 

so what would e the best way to connect the bost sensor with no ACV or BAC. What should I ook it up to

 

Wha'ts wong with a demon man?

He could be nice lol

 

Just connect your boost sensor to a vaccum source.


Demon Man= Hybrid Human...lol

 

Assuming your TPS is fine, check for vacuum leaks first, I use a pressure tester like the one here: www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html . Also check your water temperature sensor on the back of the water pump housing, it can affect cold starts. In many cases hot start problems cannot always be avoided on the stock ECU without certain kinds of trickey such as removing the "start" signal. When I switched to a Power FC my car always started and never flooded.

Your call will NEVER run right without eliminating vacuum leaks and verifying that the sensors are all working correctly, regardless of what EMS you are running.

 

which one would I get, none are really mazda specific

 

100k on the engine total, not sure how many after rebuild.

 

^^ Universal tester.

 

ordered the tested, as for the boost sensor, any vacum line is fine ? waiting for the block of plates to arrive so can get some stuff covered properly

 

so car cranks, got it to start up once, idle fine and everything, but when presses the gas the engine began to die and when I let off the gas the idle returned to normal about 1200 rpm ran fine turned off the engine tried to run it again and nothing, just cranked.

 

still same issues as above, going to order new wires, new vaccum hoses, got my block off plate kit ordered. What would of caused the mentioned above

 

you have a vaccum leak.. any time you see a high rpm..its just a leak somewhere..


you keep saying block off plates...what are you using now,, cut up beer cans for plates?..

 

so got the plate kit, got the bac, acv, egr and split air valve blocked off with the right plates(courtesy from 2751 engineering). Stil not running right, I did notice that I dont always here the gas pump prime when I turn on the car.

Retarded question: Should I hear the gas pump priming every time I start the car ?

 

ordered new vacum hoses, only two things I ca think of after I replace the vacuum hoses, is the fuel pump or the spark plug wires

 

You need to rent or buy a pressure tester..You have a vaccum leak/boost leak..pressurize the system to about 30 psi and if that doesn't hold then you have issues..with your vaccum/boost pressure leaking somewhere.

 

^ Maybe 30psi on your air compressor regulator. That will be closer to 8-10psi on a mechanical boost gauge in the vehicle if you have no leaks. If I turn up my air compressor regulator high enough (70-80psi) my mechanical boost gauge will register around 15psi and my the clamp on my tester won't hold, causing a "pop" sound and shooting the tester out of the intake pipe.

 

so still waiting for my vacum tester. Have all emisions removed, block plates installed with new gaskets and sealents. Followd the diagram here, have all the hoses going where they need to go, and everyhing else blocked off. Stil have th same isue, car just cranks, every now and then it will soud like its about to turn+ ont hen just continues to crank. Im starting to wonder if its the fuel pump and lines. The regulator says it getting pressure, but then who knows, im just getting desperate