Drachen

Ok ive got my engine, its out, its apart, its good....minus of course all the seals. but the big ol chunks of metal are in great condition. My goal is to make a sick and twisted N/A rotary. But I have no local machine shop that can do my lighten and balance job on rotors. Nor strengthen the inner gears, or stationary gears for strength at high revs. This is not cool. Racing beat will do it for 1300 bucks... anyone got a better idea please thats not very competitive when a fully balanced and blueprinted 400hp v8 goes for under 4k. I want to keep the rotary, though its light and cool. Also anyone know about some places to buy the parts to build a tachometer. Im having trouble believe any tachometer ever made is worth anywhere near the 300 dollars im finding them for. Oh a shift light wow.... Ok well if anyone can help me find some info or parts it would be much appreciated. Im busting but on this car trying to finish as a birthday present to myself

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

how do you lighten rotors? what are you doing to an n/a that is so extreme that you need to lighten the rotors, balance them, install hardened gears, etc...?

the only way you would even come close to needing those mods is if you went standalone with nitrous and a full bridge port or PP.


you are talking some serious money to pump out a lot of power from an n/a unless you force induct it.

Drachen

Im going to rev it to 10,000 rpm the lightening is for acceleration of engine speed. As you probably know power is a result of torque at a particular RPM high rev engines can pull lots of power from small displacement example toyatas 10krpm 1.2 liter, making 230at rear wheels. Or acura RSX 200hp 8krpm 2liter. The smooth power delivery of an NA is desirable for drift as well (using it to go fast not getting as sideways as possible D1gp style) The stationary gear hardening is a precaution for the higher revs stress, highest price i found was 60 bucks for that part of it. Pretty cheap considering the 1300 that the rest cost it just seems like a smart safty step to me. To be fair ive never done this before but i do have an understanding of the physics involved in an engine creating power that I know this will bring excellent results. But sadly i cannot dot he machine work myself...minus some porting and polishing.

Oh and you lighten them by taking material off of the sides, not the combustion faces the part paralell with the tailights follow me? I cant do this though if i did it it would not be balanced.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you will need a standalone and an aftermarket ignition to reach those RPMs as well, i would do a little more homework on what is involved. you would be much better off to just get a T2 and not bother with an n/a from the sound of what you are expecting from the engine.

therotaryrocket

maybe you can source parts from an rx8? they spin 10,000rpms. don't forget the clutch assembly.

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Are you going to be doing competitive racing? If not I suggest you look at a turbo. If you insist on having an n/a with revs as you've specified, perhaps you'd be better off getting some Renesis parts.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

maybe I just have yet to see a fast n/a but I don't understand why there are so many people for n/a and against forced induction. FI just makes sence to me I guess. Good luck either way you go but realize that n/a can only get you so far.

Bob_The_Normal

Forced induction is fine... when it has no lag.

You can't play with lag! Didn't you ever play CS? (lol)

Anyway... lightening and balancing the rotors in an N/A...

That's awesome. No torque... and... you can get right up there to 11k.... where... there's... no power.

YAY.

I'm all for the N/A rotary... but it's gotta be BP or PP. =) Or hell... just go 3 rotor! =D I am so gonna have a 3 rotor FC someday.

--Gary

andrew lohaus

i like that you want to be different an not resort to a turbo, but making the kind of power you are after will not be acheived by lighter rotors and a street port alone. the stock induction set up will limit you to a max of 180whp (thats probobly generous). to see any power at 10,000 rpm you will most likely need at least a partial bridge port, a new indution setup and fuel delivery. if you want this to be very street worthy that will mean a custom intake and a tuned standalone efi (lots more $$$). it could be done pretty cheaply with a racing beat carb setup, but would not be as freindly on the street or have as flexible power delivery, which will be vital considering the port timing you will have to use

Drachen

Ok i appologize i was not clear. No i will not likely be doing much in the way of competitive racing this car is strictly for my enjoyment. 2 no power at high rpms? well maybe not with stick fuel delivery and ignition but let me assure you I had no intention of going stock anywhere in that area. I am purposley limiting the power under 300 I dont want more than 200-250 or so really. All the work you guys are asking about is stuff i can do at home i dont plan on simply lightening rotors and reinforcing gears. Yes i understand other preperation is needed. But we are way off topic here. I like the rx-8 part suggestion but, i already have a 13b in fine condition i wanna crank some power out of and have fun.

I will restate my questions if somone can answer them great if not thank you anyway. I understand you love your turbos they are a very good way to attain extra power and i know lag can be reduced to negligable levels with the right equipment and tuning skill. However my question is.

I need lightened and balanced rotors. Does anyone know of a shop that does them near the south east area of the US?

Does anyone have some info on how one could build a tachometer, perhaps a kit and i can custom make the face and housing. Aftermarket 10k tachs have rediculous prices "although snatching one out of a wrecked rx8 might be cool i dont know how high it goes but at least 9k.

Right now even if i have to ship it off im looking at all my work done for under 2 grand. This will bring me the power im looking for. The turbos undesirable cost, lag considerations, as well as the need for many other part swaps and additional weight is just not my cup of tea. Anyway thanks for your suggestion but im sticking n/a cause it suits my purpouses.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

you kinda need to lighten the rotors if you planing to spin up over 9k, my suggestion would be to get renesis rotors and use those since its a much cheaper alternative then havign the s5 ones lightened. the hardened stationary gears you can purchase from racign beat, they are nto that expensive. you need to clearance the bearings a bit more loose also, and bump up teh oil pressure. i woudl use carbon apex seals also at that high of an rpm or ceramics if you can afford them. if the intake and the exhaust and the portign is tuned properly you can get over 300whp on a pport under 9k rpm.
this isnt an easy setup to make and you have to know what you are doing, the tach is your last problem

Drachen

Mm hmm, Yeah i saw that the stationary gear job was cheap and can do the porting myself. I had forgoten the oil pump, sureley i woulda remembered beofre i put it back in, hehe i hope anyways. Im also limiting the decibles this things aloud to rattle at so thats gonna make my exaust somewhat restrictive as compared to an all out performance car. The 10k obsession has alot to do with toyatas JGT car, but also as my friend has a 10psi turbo fc im going 10krpm na fc. I have some good reasons some bad for this. I like the getting the rx-8 rotors but i dont know enough about rx-8s i didnt think of that. Is the engine basically the same structure, rotor size? Yeah I have a new set of carbon seals they seemed like best choice as I will not be milling the rotor tips any to take advantage of ceramics low heat expansion quality. Its lookin like the engine is going bye bye to racing beat for rotors and gear and then ill finish the porting oil delivery fuel delivery...you know lots of stuff that wasnt included in my 2grand statement. Also Im going to run 2 cycle as the dangers of an oil pump failure frighten me greatly. Thanks for reminding me about oil pump though woulda hated to forget. (spirit of ricer be gone)

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

the rx8 rotors are same dimensions, they have a little higher compression 10:1 instead of 9.7:1 which isnt a big diffrence but its nice to have. also they are almost a pound lighter, which is pretty much what your s5 rotor will end up at if you lighten it. the only thing is the apex seal groove is not as deep as the older rotors, and you need to use the older seals on a pport exhaust, there seems to bea problem with the rx8 shallow seal and pport as someone already has experienced. so you will need to mill the rx8 rotors a little deeper to accomodate the older seal.

88IntegraLS

The answer to everything is twin turbos or a twin screw supercharger.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

my point was and a bit of an answer to the question is it takes well over $3000 to get an n/a to produce over 200RWHP, i didn't mean to sound like a turbo pusher but it is a much cheaper and more reliable alternative if you don't mind a spooling power band. if you want to pump up an n/a it takes a lot of work, probably more than you are thinking.

Mint87RX7

and if your worried about spending a little extra on a new tach, then i dont think you know how much money this project will take