There's not much that will dump oil like that under deceleration that I can think of.

 

Hmm..

I had someone rev to 7k a few times again.. the MOP arm wasn't sticking or anything, but then again everytime he did it, it didn't smoke nearly as much as in that video..

Maybe premix can yield some answers..

 

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM.

 

^

Ideas anyone?

 

I think your mop actuator might be sticking depending on the temperature.

Out of curiousity, how hard is it to pop it off and dip it into solvent? I'm not too familiar with s4 mops

 

This could be true.

That's probably the main problem - I'm not too familiar with the MOP at all really except the linkage, etc.

I think I'm going to print the MOP part of the service manual and read it at work today on lunch..

Any other input or ideas are appreciated, guys.

 

A bad ACV will cause problems during decel. In your case popping or excess unburned fuel. Other signs are poping when closeing throttle plates abruptly for gear changes.

 

Since the smoke shows mainly on deceleration - and it is not a turbo..

I bet the MOP is a red herring.

I suspect high mileage / worn oil control rings.

The good news - a little extra oil is OK in a rotary, and you can take your time planning a rebuild..

 

I'd suspect the OMP.. it sure looks like oil.. well.. it looks like ATF fluid did when it came billowing out my car when I installed the J-Spec after letting the ATF sit for a day or two..

 

Before I had the cats removed, it didnt matter what i was doing, it would pop between each gear (exhaust pop like you hear abruptly in the video). Not a big one, the size of the pop was dependent on how much I was accelerating.

I really doubt the oil control rings. If that were it, wouldnt it smoke at high RPM all the time? It never smokes while I'm revving high. Only during Decel on occasion..

If the MOP goes bad (or has a malfunction) does it default to dump extra oil in or something?

I looked at the FSM about the MOP, it didn't really tell me much.

 

The mechanical doesn't have any default settings, like we said yesterday, pull that linkage off and run premix and see if it does it!

 

LOL!

Dang.. trying to see if I could avoid that temporarily..

OK. Next tank of fuel will be premix. I'm SO NERVOUS!

 

dude it's just an N/A.. no huge loss there.. and if it blows, $1000 and you have a turbo rotary now.

 

Regardless, It's my investment. I'm not going to be reckless with it.

And my GXL is going to remain N/A when the time comes for a new motor.

I would get a turbo motor upon rebuild time, but I think I'd rather get that installed into another shell (FB or S5 FC). I could be wrong though. Things change. Ask silverrotor.

I've actually had a few recommendations so far (outside of this thread) to disconnect the MOP linkage and just run Premix for testing. So I'm going to be doing it next fill-up for sure.

You'll hear from me soon!

 

could be a coolant issue... thats the same type of smoke i had on startup, untill i replaced the waterpump and sparkplugs, and all gaskets.

when you rev'd your engine in the vid your car was warm right? i was in a hurry once and i noticed when you take it up to high rpm while still cold it puts out smoke of the same kind.

 

Yes the car was warm. But I never EVER rev past 3k RPM without the car being at operating temperature.

Did you have a cooling issue of some sort related to smoke? Just curious if you could share..

 

i dont think your problem has anything to do with coolant.

whats the problem with disconnecting the OMP and running premix to try it out and see if the OMP is really the problem?

 

well i had tons of that same type of smoke on startup with my car... what fixed it was when i replaced the waterpump, and what finished it off was replacing my fouled plugs. i dont get it anymore.

 

I dont think so either. It never smokes or stinks of burning coolant anytime (including startup).
Nothing, really. I just get concerned when I start dinking with the main internal lubricator... I honestly don't have a good reason that I can think of to be worried, but I am anyways.

That's wierd.. Replacement of the waterpump fixed it?! Wow.

 

Black,
Try the FSM, pg. 2-6

"Rod Clearance

1. Rotate fast idle cam 7 roller in direction of arrow (Clockwise)
to seperate the cam & the roller.

2. Check clearance of the rod & the lever. If necessary, adjust the clearance with washers.

Clearance: 0-1mm (0-0.04") "

The rod should be able to travel thru its full motion when pulled up through the throttle 'bushing' thingy. But the actual throttle should have the clearance mentioned when at rest. That is, only a small movement of the throttle should engage the rod, and start opening up the MOP. Dave

 

My vote is it is one of these three things...

1 - broken purge control valve (pcv valve basically)
2 - oil control rings
3 - water getting into somewhere it shouldn't