You would be better off doing the reliability mods before you do all that other stuff.

 

hahaha.... i bet he's sold so many though.


sad sad industry this is

 

I've done a full tune up, I've replaced many gaskets, hoses, AC, seals, only thing i havnt done is the body and paint job, and will mostlikely keep the stock alloy rims and just paint it, so now im ready to put performance parts. I have 115k Miles on the engine, changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, 02 sensor nology spark plug wires, with NGK spark plugs, Clutch is good, brakes has been replaced, trans, oil, coolant, all fluids had been replaced.. cant think of n e thing else, i have done plenty of things though, just cant get the rest of them out of my mind.

 

elaborate.

 

What mod? designing a low restriction cold air intake? Not a chance.
Smart guy, but I wouldn't go that far.
Actually there is restriction before the TB with the stock air box setup. The box its self is a good restriction. Loosing the box to my CAI for me gave me some high end.
There are heat sheilding products out there.
BS. you telling me straight pipe and a cone filter is more restrictive the the air box?

True, but it still heatsoaks. Again, you can buy heat shielding products.


But to the OP, there is no JDM intake. The JDM thing is said way to much and means almost nothing for most products that include the initials JDM.

 

port & polish manifold

 

Useless.

Might as weel swap in a TII for all the money you are planning on spending.

 

Performance per dollar, yes not worth it but im sure you will gain some mid to high end performance. Low end will suffer though.

you don't ever want to polish the intake manifold after the secondary injectors, reason is due to the turbulance created on the walls with it being rough, keeps the fuel atomized instead of the fuel sticking to the walls.

 

I concur.

If you must spend money on gaining power for an NA without doing a bridge/P-port you'd be best off deleting your pre-cat.

Either gut it (ghetto style) or get something like the Racing Beat pipe + presilencer combo.

It would be the easiest, most cost effective way to gain some more power from an NA.

 

If you see that link, it look slike it's just a filter with a pipe, a hot air intake, if you would.

I think the point was that an open filter in the engine bay produces less horsepower than a stock airbox set-up, no matter which company made that filter.

I'm actually interested to see if that's true.

 

MAzda has some competition manuals online somewhere and it gives you detailed measurements on how to build a CAI system with the snorkel in the front end and ducting to the filter. Look into that instead of ebay.

You're itchy to waste money but you're looking in the wrong direction

The hood scoop Idea works but you're using the incorrect type. I'd look into Z3-like fender vents and rather than mount them as vents you'd mount them backwards so the air goes right where the CAI and airbox are (like in the picture from natey) so you don't add a piece that will increase drag and not be very functional.

 

There is a Thread about custom making a CAI....just search tech posts...

The instalation doesn't require much cutting of your 7, just expanding your pre-existent hole for windshield wiper washer reservoir.

like some people mentioned before, the CAI would not give you much extra power unless you swap the exhaust system.

 

I will be getting racing beat exhaust system, just wanna get an inside scoop about CAI.. due to the fact that, I cant find one for these 7's n e where. Thanks for all the info PEOPLE!!!

 

Have you ever even looked at an AFM? Did you read all of what I wrote?

Maybe if you have already gotten rid of your AFM by going EMS and have a big exhaust and port job you might need a "CAI." If that was the case though, there's no way you'd have to ask.

The box is a restriction... just not to a stock ported rotary.

I wasn't saying that a ram air is more restrictive than stock. A ram air, however, sucks hot engine air. I am saying that the way 95% of people making CAI's get ambient air to their air box is more restrictive than the way mazda dit it.

Look I'm not trying to be a dick, but I've been researching this recently. Look it up, you can find dyno proven power losses going to a CAI.

 

If you don't like the 15 dollar airbox idea, then you can (I can't believe no one's mentioned this) always make a 92-99 Prelude CAI fit. You'll have to do a little cutting, though. I stole this super professional P/S job from another thread....Thanks to whoever made it.

 

Nice, i like that Prelude CAI idea, So all i would have to do is cut that pipe, question? have u done this with yours? if so can u provide me pictures.. I might end up doing that..




Would this work... got it from MQTAutoparts Ebay listing

 

step of what I need to buy to do that?

 

1) Yep, cold air box is essential.
2) Not an issue. The filter is far more restrictive.
3) Thin wide plastic is not a good heat shield. That's like using foil for armor then saying, "but it's steel!". In reality the poor heat transfer of air is your best protection. A thin sheet of aluminum is fine. Or, heck, even silver - the metal with the highest conductivity - would work. The key is to seal out the hot air really well (w/ rubber seals, etc.), and block heat that way. Heat transfer is very poor from air to surface and surface to air. So it doesn't matter that the surface to surface heat transfer is very good (even w/ stock plastic). You can cover your box with insulation like some people do, but it's not necessary.

Heck, if it was that easy to transfer heat from air to surfaces, intercoolers & radiators would be tiny and finless. Instead they have extremely large surface areas from hundreds of fins, for good convection. At the same time the thin fins conduct heat very poorly. Why? B/c they're 100 times more worried about convection than conduction. And even with several square feet of surface area from all those fins, even though they conduct heat 1,000 times better than a cold air box, people still upgrade them.

A) People find that a typical CAI increases power by ~5% compared to hot air. If you calculate the increase in air density you'll get about the same number. Again, it's not hard to keep the heat out, just seal out the hot air.

If I had to buy a CAI for $500 I'd say, "screw that". But a CAI is a cheap way to gain a little power. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I've been busy with other things, plus it isn't on the top of my list for my car. In the meantime the P.O.'s cone intake is sapping a little power.

 

i think you can get a pipe already cut. My prelude intake came with two pieces. one looked like a TID and the other had the same shape as the NA intake pipe.

 

So wait, You can make a Cube like Heat shield to cover the FILTER? to keep away the hot air? or how would you do it?

 

Basically yeah. You still need to let in outside air, and block hot air under the hood with good seams and seals. Just do a search and see how other people made theirs. Most people put a box around the filter. They put an opening in the box which they connect to outside the car (or, usually, they stick it in a corner so that it has only 2 sides and a bottom, while the other sides are open to outside air). For some reason they like to leave the top side open, with rubber seals to keep air out. That way your hood becomes the "lid" on the box, and the box opens whenever you pop your hood.

 

take some aluminum sheets (1/16th of an inch) and weld, rivet, ziptie, bolt, or strap it down and make a hole for the Intake and voila, c'est fini!

 

Don't use the Prelude intake, your looking to gain .0000000000002 horsepower and have less low end. The Tii hood ram air scoop thing is out, unless you want to rev to 4500 at stop signs. Do reliability mods first! If your looking for performance stuff that means you're going to be pushing the car. Fix it before it breaks when you're "driving". Then save and save and save , because the only intake setup worth running an N/A is ITBs, which cost a lot and require a stand alone to tune. Your last resort is to convert to carbs, but then you risk fouling plugs if teh damn things aren't setup/ tuned right. Go individual, or go HOME!

 

thats so ******* homo I can make that at the hardware store

 

Yes and Yes. I did some good looking and investigating of the AFM a while back.

I have seen, so far 3 airflow restriction testing using manometers. You can count on 10-13 inches of water of restriction with the stock intake.

Read above.

You do know what ram air is right? An intake designed and piped out side of the engine bay placed directly in the path of high pressure airflow. How is this going to suck in hot engine bay air?

How is this? I hope you have some facts.

Explain.....

Explain again. Why would you have to rev the engine to 4500rpm? There is a member that used a t2 hood on his n/a and made a functional ram air intake with it.

Really? Loose your low and part of the mid range power with them. The best intake for an series4 n/a is swapping on a series5 intake mani.